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Old 04-30-2017, 10:03 AM   #1
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Long term full time parking

I will be living in my coach parked for 6 months. I will run my diesel generator every month under load. Do I need to do the same with the engine? What else should I do while it is parked?
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:08 AM   #2
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Running the main engine without fully warming it up with a road trip of at least half an hour will do more harm than good.

Change the motor oil and filter just before you shut down for the season, so you don't have contaminated oil just sitting in the engine for a prolonged period.

Check your tire pressures every month and keep them up to spec.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:51 PM   #3
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Ron Postma Top off the fuel tank before parking to prevent condensation from forming.
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:11 PM   #4
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Run the engine to at least 150 degrees...a high idle would be best around 1200 rpm...I recently attended the Camp Freightliner class and Mike Cody the Sr Instructor mentioned how to keep things going if your MH is in storage and you can't get it out on the road.
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Old 04-30-2017, 11:45 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by MutinyGuy View Post
Run the engine to at least 150 degrees...a high idle would be best around 1200 rpm...I recently attended the Camp Freightliner class and Mike Cody the Sr Instructor mentioned how to keep things going if your MH is in storage and you can't get it out on the road.
That might be good from FL's viewpoint but what does the engine and tranni manufacturers say?

From what I've read, you'd want to take your rig out on the road and exercise it until both the engine and tranni is up to temp. Around 30 minutes drive time as mentioned before.

In storage, if it's going to be a long period, it's best to never start it if you can't drive it, and to top off the tank before storage. After all, farmers park their diesel equipment for months and only start them when needed.
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Old 05-02-2017, 10:32 PM   #6
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Run the engine to at least 150 degrees...a high idle would be best around 1200 rpm...I recently attended the Camp Freightliner class and Mike Cody the Sr Instructor mentioned how to keep things going if your MH is in storage and you can't get it out on the road.
Cummins disagrees. Previous recommendations above your post are what Cummins recommends.
FWIW, Cummins states a diesel engine will never reach normal operating temperature unless it is under load for 20 minutes or more.That is required to evaporate moisture created in a cold engine by ambient temperature fluctuations.
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Old 05-02-2017, 10:49 PM   #7
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If you cannot drive it and get the motor up to operating temperature just fill the tank throw in some stuff to keep algae from growing and let it sit. Make sure you run the motor long enough to get the treated fuel into al of the fuel system
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Old 05-03-2017, 12:09 AM   #8
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Cummins states a diesel engine will never reach normal operating temperature unless it is under load for 20 minutes or more.
What page of your manual states that...if you can give that to me then I will contact Mike Cody from FL and let him know that he has been giving out incorrect information for many years....
I am not disagreeing with you but would like to know where you have read that.
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Old 05-03-2017, 12:12 AM   #9
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From what I've read, you'd want to take your rig out on the road and exercise it until both the engine and tranni is up to temp. Around 30 minutes drive time as mentioned before.
Can you direct me to where you have read this? If you can direct me to the documentation I will make sure Mike Cody from FL has that information...again not disagreeing with you but need to see the literature as what you are stating.
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Old 05-03-2017, 12:49 AM   #10
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Can you direct me to where you have read this? If you can direct me to the documentation I will make sure Mike Cody from FL has that information...again not disagreeing with you but need to see the literature as what you are stating.

This is not just a Cummins standard but has been an (ASE) training standard for all gasoline and diesel engine techs for many years.

As stated, unless the engine can be warmed to operating temperatures, and the crank case ventilation system allowed to breath as the engine is under normal load, not cranking the engine during storage is better than short periods of incomplete combustion.

Running your genset monthly under load is a good idea, but can also be extended out to two months if you prefer, and running it at least an hour at a time under load.

Some may ask where to find this information in writing for future reference, which is sometimes difficult for those of us who have worked in this field of automotive repair and maintenance for a number of years, and acquired this common knowledge along the way.

But good information can be found if you are inclined to dedicate some time to do the research

DTW
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Old 05-03-2017, 06:50 AM   #11
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Recommend you cycle your Aqua-Hot pumps, including the engine pre-heat and basement. I inflate the tires to 120# and ground the jacks onto pads (whatever you've got). Before you start the engine again check the air filter inlet - the birds love to nest in ours.
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Old 05-04-2017, 10:15 PM   #12
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What page of your manual states that...if you can give that to me then I will contact Mike Cody from FL and let him know that he has been giving out incorrect information for many years....
I am not disagreeing with you but would like to know where you have read that.
That will be stated in your owners manual; same for Onan genset, manual will state "run 2 hrs per month at 50% load".
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Old 05-05-2017, 12:24 AM   #13
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That will be stated in your owners manual; same for Onan genset, manual will state "run 2 hrs per month at 50% load".

Here is some more info you may be interested in and is too much to type out to the forum.

http://www.clarkegen.com/Libraries/P...ines.sflb.ashx
http://www.biobor.com/advertising/Ce...rpillarOMM.pdf
Reference from Authorities Regarding Long Term Diesel Storage
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:25 AM   #14
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Moving off the engine, we think bringing in slides and up levelers every month is good and know full-timers with DP who follow that routine and works for them.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:40 PM   #15
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Good information as we are approaching our first full month of a five month work camping assignment.

I'm thinking once a month I need to

treat the slide seals with 303

treat the exposed portion of the levelers with WD40

check and fill tires to max pressure

disconnect power, water and sewer

pull in the slides

'stow' the levelers

start the engine

start the generator

move the DP forward and backward a number of times to lube bearings and seals, testing the filling of airbags while noting air pressure, test power steering, brakes, forward/reverse shifting, etc.

run both engines for 1/2 hour with A/C on to load the genset

what did I miss?
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:00 PM   #16
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If you are going to do all that, you might go ahead and drive for 30 minutes... if not, I'd only add that you clean off the roof/awnings and consider some fresh/grey/black tank maintenance


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Originally Posted by clayfeet View Post
Good information as we are approaching our first full month of a five month work camping assignment.

I'm thinking once a month I need to

treat the slide seals with 303

treat the exposed portion of the levelers with WD40

check and fill tires to max pressure

disconnect power, water and sewer

pull in the slides

'stow' the levelers

start the engine

start the generator

move the DP forward and backward a number of times to lube bearings and seals, testing the filling of airbags while noting air pressure, test power steering, brakes, forward/reverse shifting, etc.

run both engines for 1/2 hour with A/C on to load the genset

what did I miss?
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:09 PM   #17
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I didn't notice anything missing, but I find some inaccuracies...

Don't use WD40 on the jack rams. Use a lubricant recommended by the manufacturer. Usually that's ATF on a rag. Many just use spray silicon so they don't have to crawl under the RV.

I've read on RV forums that 303 shouldn't be used on slide seals as it causes damage but I don't remember the details or if it's 'actually' bad for them. Manufacturer's recommendation is best of course.

Once a month start the Genset and put a load on it. Electric heaters in winter, AC in summer. Run it for as long as the manufacturer recommends. My Onan 7500 watt, diesel, is to be run 2 hours per month under load.

Start the DP RV engine only if you can drive it, on the road, as long as it takes to get the engine and tranni fully warmed up, usually around 20 miles at various speeds. This also exercises the slide mechanisms.

Starting, moving a little back and forth in your site are worse for the engine and tranni then just not starting it at all. This is advice that goes back decades.

JMO, YMMV.
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