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Old 11-28-2016, 01:37 PM   #15
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NICE! As an electronics designer, my brain immediately turned to the possibility that you could have a circuit timer that you'd push a button and it would turn on the valve for 15 (adjustable) seconds, then turn it off.

Fun, and a great project.

Well done!
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Old 11-28-2016, 02:40 PM   #16
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RV Grey Water Recycling - Unique Solutions Inc RV has a hot water recirculator. They also make a grey water toilet flush system. Both together would save a LOT of water in our RV. Putting low flow fittings on sinks will help too.
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek View Post
NICE! As an electronics designer, my brain immediately turned to the possibility that you could have a circuit timer that you'd push a button and it would turn on the valve for 15 (adjustable) seconds, then turn it off.

Fun, and a great project.

Well done!

I had a similar idea, there are cheap 555 timer based variable delay relays available on ebay for under $10 (most are 0-10 seconds, but some are 0-20 or 0-60), combine this with a small 12V solenoid valve with a bit of plumbing and a momentary contact button and you get a one click solution. Sure a 555 is not a precise timing system as accuracy of the timing circuit varies with ambient temperature, but +/- a second or so at 20 seconds should be close enough for this sort of application.
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:56 PM   #18
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I liked your conversion to the mixer valve, finish looked great.
Good ideas.

Thinking about your last project did you consider:
Using the water fill line to return your water to the water tank, rather than punching another hole in the tank?
How about creating a loop back to the water heater instead of the water tank?
After doing the install how many fittings do you think you could remove from the project using pex tubing.
Why not use a manual ball valve? I'm a keep it simple person and adding electrical anything to a motor home is a potential trouble.

Solenoid is a good idea but still requires power.
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:53 PM   #19
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Fantastic!!! We just returned from our first boondocking trip in our new (to us) 30' class A, and have the same issue. My coach could not be set up any worse for getting hot water to the tap.

My water heater is up in the right front corner, just behind the front tire. From there, the lines go all the way back to about 3' behind the rear axle, cross to the other side, and then forward to about halfway between front & rear axles. From there, they STILL have to go through a large loop, since the kitchen is in the slideout! Based on Winnebago's plumbing schematics, I have 41.5 feet of line from the water heater to the tap!!!! Assuming a 1/2' diameter line, that is 1.7 gallons wasted before the hot water ever reaches the kitchen faucet!!!! Ridiculous!

My thoughts on the way home were exactly what you did, except I was thinking of a manual valve just under the sink (in the cabinet). But I like your idea of the electrically operated valve better; it allows a cleaner install and more easily accessible switch. It would also allow a second switch in the bathroom for the same valve/purpose!

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!
Sounds like you really have a need for this type of a setup. In my RV I have about 25 feet from the water heater to the bathroom sink. Not quite that much to the shower.

I didn't want a manual valve because I didn't want my wife to have to open a cabin or something to operate it. This way she can just throw the switch. Admittedly, some sort of a circuit timer would be nice but that made my project more complicated than I was interested in tackling.
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:00 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by S Bradley View Post
I liked your conversion to the mixer valve, finish looked great.
Good ideas.

Thinking about your last project did you consider:
Using the water fill line to return your water to the water tank, rather than punching another hole in the tank?
How about creating a loop back to the water heater instead of the water tank?
After doing the install how many fittings do you think you could remove from the project using pex tubing.
Why not use a manual ball valve? I'm a keep it simple person and adding electrical anything to a motor home is a potential trouble.

Solenoid is a good idea but still requires power.
It was the simplest and easiest just to put another hole in the freshwater tank. It it may be easier to install it in the fill line in other RVs.

Sending the water back to the water heater didn't seem to make any sense at least as far as my RV is concerned.

I think I used six fittings not including the one that goes into the tank.

If I used a manual ball valve it would have had to the inside of a cabinet as I wouldn't want to have it to have to look at it. Then if it was inside the cabinet it probably wouldn't get used very often. I just put the switch in a fairly unobtrusive place underneath the medicine cabinet.
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:09 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by bodycoach2 View Post
RV Grey Water Recycling - Unique Solutions Inc RV has a hot water recirculator. They also make a grey water toilet flush system. Both together would save a LOT of water in our RV. Putting low flow fittings on sinks will help too.
I looked at that one but I thought it missed the mark.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:57 AM   #22
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Great idea that many of us can use!
I'd like to hear from others that try it out.
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:07 AM   #23
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Sounds like you really have a need for this type of a setup. In my RV I have about 25 feet from the water heater to the bathroom sink. Not quite that much to the shower.
Yeah, in my RV, the shower is actually the closest to the heater at 19.3' of line (wasting about 0.8 gal). The outside shower is next at 23.3' (1.0 gal), the bathroom sink is at 28.1' (1.2 gal), and finally the kitchen sink is the worst at 41.4' (wasting a whopping 1.7 gal).

Quote:
Originally Posted by MurphyMan View Post
I didn't want a manual valve because I didn't want my wife to have to open a cabin or something to operate it. This way she can just throw the switch. Admittedly, some sort of a circuit timer would be nice but that made my project more complicated than I was interested in tackling.
I too was not thrilled with the idea of a manual valve, for two reasons: one, the need to open a cabinet door to operate it, and two, the need to run the plumbing to that location, increasing the water line routing complexity. Your electrically operated valve not only solves both of those issues, but allows for additional switch(es) at other locations that will operate the same valve/system.
I believe that the most difficult part of adding this to my RV is going to be routing the return line for the slideout "loop"; hopefully, I will have enough access to simply follow the existing lines. BTW, I will be tapping into the "city fill" line to return to the tank, as that will be closer and easier in my application.
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:10 AM   #24
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How about creating a loop back to the water heater instead of the water tank?
Going back to the water heater tank won't work; that line is already under the same pressure, so water wouldn't flow anywhere. What is needed is to plumb it into a line (or tank) that is un-pressurized, allowing the hot water to flow through the line.
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:28 AM   #25
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I'll have to look at it more carefully of course, but this might work as a time delay...

Time delay module...
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:50 PM   #26
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...Snip

BTW, I will be tapping into the "city fill" line to return to the tank, as that will be closer and easier in my application.
Doh! I din't think of that, and the city fill is in close proximity to the valve!

That may have worked just fine! Oh well, maybe on our next RV.
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:04 PM   #27
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The Aqua View Showermiser is another option that I have seen. I don't have any personal experience with it. I saw it for $60 at one RV parts supplier.
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:54 PM   #28
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This thread really should be moved over to Motorhome General Discussion, as this is a good idea that can benefit all brands of RVs, and not just Winnebago. Moderator, what do you think, should this be moved?
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