hot water check valve

Jim · 09-04-2007, 02:30 PM

after a recent move i hooked up and found i had no hot water flow..i tracked it down to a check valve in the cold water input..i removed the valve and things seem ok but i was wondering why there is a check valve and what problem can occur without one..thanks..jim

Jim · 09-04-2007, 02:30 PM

after a recent move i hooked up and found i had no hot water flow..i tracked it down to a check valve in the cold water input..i removed the valve and things seem ok but i was wondering why there is a check valve and what problem can occur without one..thanks..jim

John_Canfield · 09-04-2007, 03:27 PM

That check valve is notorious for failing. I think it is used for winterizing. Maybe somebody else will chime in with personal experience.

Big Bear · 09-04-2007, 04:00 PM

Could be a check valve....BUT while at The Rally in Redmond last mo, I had the same problem. One minuite it worked, 5 min later it did not. I found it was a check valve on the HOT water OUTPUT that had failed. When winterizing it keeps water/antifrz from entering thru the output. It was a real B..ch to get out as located near the top of tank. I found that the "keeper" holding the spring to the internal seal had gone away allowing the seal to move & seal the output from tank. Took out the "guts" & reninstaled. This was a brass valve body screwed into the tank by SUPERMAN!! And the internals were really CHEAP!! Plastic which went bad allowing the keeper to come off. Got a "Camco" replacment at the local dealer which is much better, all brass @ $8.95 & had to add a 1/2" close nipple to end with male threads on both ends. Just reinstalled it. I did notice what looks like another check valve on the input to the tank, probaly the next to go, at least it is much easier to get to.

Wizard · 09-05-2007, 04:11 AM

Winnie uses two check valves on the hot water heater for winterizing purposes. They are notorious for problems. Mine was making a squeeling sound any time hot water valve was opened and causing low flow through the faucets. No big deal to change, just like a pipe nipple. A lot of people just remove if they don,t winterize. My only problem was getting to the back of the heater. Got my replacements from Tweeties for about $5.00. Had to get a smaller nephew to get in the hole to change. GOOD LUCK

David K · 09-05-2007, 07:52 AM

You are correct about the winterization and the reason for the check valves. I took mine apart and removed the "guts" so they are just a flow through. I did put in two shut off valves -- one for the cold in side and one for the hot out side. Now when I get ready to winterize, I just close off the valves, drain the hot water heater and then pump the anti-freeze everywhere else. No more guessing as to whether the valve is working or not. I bought my valves from Camping World -- parts department for about $6.00 each -- lower than the cost for brass check valves.

rick_od · 09-05-2007, 04:24 PM

i have access to the rear of my HWH by removing a couple of drawers. i relocated my winterization valves to the rear of the HWH and removed the check valves.

fayrankin · 09-23-2007, 05:28 AM

Well, this is truly almost a miracle. A problem exactly like mine and almost a possible solution. I have a 2005 33V Adventurer and the water heater is inside a compartment just in front of the entry door. I am up for just removing the darn valve guts but wonder if there is some function that will be impaired. There seems to be a valve system for bypassing the heater tank and a line to suck in the antifreeze. I love the water heating function using engine heat. Does anyone know how this is all plumbed up? In short, this problem just came up and I'm not sure we even have enough hot water flow to take a shower, but I am very reluctant to tear into things because once you are down you are down. Bypass may allow restoration of cold water only flow.

As you see, I'm now thinking on the key board and making more boogey men as I go. The very strange thing about this is that the problem just fully manifested itself after I had just completed installing a different drinking water filter under the sink (replaced the Everpure with a standard filter with better cartridges available) and changed the outside sediment filter. Just a coincidence or did a big slug of air finally do in the check valve in?

Help! I hate bath houses even tho I help clean the one here and know its OK.

Terry L.

Captain Bud · 09-23-2007, 06:50 AM

I have removed the internals from my check valve and have had no problems. If you winterize by blowing out your lines and water heater with compressed air there is no need for the check valves...

peter griffin · 09-23-2007, 09:51 AM

so if you remove the check valve and fill up your water tank with antifreeze and let it run through the entire system until you see pink...what does the removal cause of the check valve cause?

I am still confused what is the purpose of the check valve and what happens if you take the guts out.....

fayrankin · 09-23-2007, 04:25 PM

I am going to call Winnebago Service Monday. There is a bypass valve system for winterizing. But I need to understand how all these valves and check valves work and more importantly, how in the heck do you get to them? I have no idea how much stuff I would have to tear out to get to the back of the heater.

What I did today has helped restore enough hat water flow that I was able to get a shower: I turned off the electric so I didn't burn out my element, shut off the water to the coach, removed the burner so I could get to the drain plug and drained the heater. I then used my little squirty wand to put high velocity water all around the tank and rinse out the mineral deposits. I then turned on the water and observed the flow out the drain hole. It was considerable so I assumed the inlet check valve (if there is one) was not restricting inlet flow. I then replaced the plug, turned the kitchen faucet to full hot and began to refill the tank. From the fill rate and the air flow from the faucet, I was pretty sure I had not solved my problem. I went to my back up plan: I have a an anode in the tank that has a radiator type drain valve that was just about the same size as the nozzle on the air gun for my compressor. With city water still on, I had my wife open the faucet while I quickly opened the drain valve and gave the system a shot of air pressure. I must have moved something as a small increase in flow has occured but the problem is far from solved.

I will pass on any advice I receive but I think I may just be exercising my extended warranty a bit. I don't think the $50 deductible would buy enough Band Aids to make attempting this project a viable proposition.

Clean enough to be social for a while,

Terry L.

dirko · 09-23-2007, 05:43 PM

Hi Ho: A while back you asked about the engine heat. There is a heat exchanger. Also, there is a blower in my Suncruiser that allow engine heat to heat the coach. Problem is that the blower bearings fail as a rule. My approach will be to take out the water heater, remove both check valves and replace the blower at the same time. The question is how to prevent bearing failure on the blower a second time. Good luck. If you want info on removing the water heater, do a search. It is pretty well documented.
Dirk

wagonmaster2 · 09-23-2007, 07:47 PM

As mentioned above, I have a by-pass valve in the utility compartment that I turn when winterizing that by-passes the water heater to keep anti-freeze from entering when pumping anti-freeze into the whole system. If this by-pass valve keeps antifreeze from entering the water heater, what is the purpose of the check valves in the hot & cold water lines at the back of the water heater? Maybe Winnebago will have an answer for us, or as they have done with some of my questions "see your local dealer for this as we don't give out this information to customers". I can't believe the lack of help we are getting from Winnebago lately. They are getting worse than Fleetwood and that is BAD.
Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G

NeilV · 09-24-2007, 12:34 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by peter griffin:
so if you remove the check valve and fill up your water tank with antifreeze and let it run through the entire system until you see pink...what does the removal cause of the check valve cause?

I am still confused what is the purpose of the check valve and what happens if you take the guts out..... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Removal of the check valve on the output side can cause your water heater to fill up with antifreeze while removal of the one on the cold water side can cause hot water to backflow into your cold water lines and fresh water tank.

You will have to do a lot of flushing to clear the antifreeze out of the water heater afterwards.

fayrankin · 09-24-2007, 11:17 AM

I talked to "Al" in Winnebago customer support today. He insists that even with the bypass that if you pump antifreeze into the system it will go to the tank if there are no guts in the check valve. I wish I could see a plumbing schematic. The links to the "plumbing diagrams" on this site for my model 2005 WFG33V are just pictures of the plumbing system that are of little value for this exercise.

The access to the back of the heater is a 6-8" slot at the back of a 24" wide x 30" deep compartment. Read as: remove the water heater to gain access to the check valve.

Discretion is the best part of valor. I hope the "big trickle" I have now will hold up until we hit the road in about 3 weeks and can find a repair shop to handle this on my extended warranty. (We are wrapping up a near 5 month Workamping stint on a small island just south of Boothbay Harbor, ME). Getting out to a service facility would not be convenient in our present situation.

Izzyblueye · 09-25-2007, 04:03 AM

I had both my check valves replaced a month ago by a dealer. Second time replaced, he had a small tech that crawled back in the very small bin and did the replacement. Charged me $180.00 and I was glad to pay it. I tried to reach them myself, at 225 lbs no way. The valves are brass and I can't see why they fail so quickly. I wish I would have had them install gate valves that could be reached for winterizing, and junk the check valves.

Big Bear · 09-25-2007, 09:17 AM

As already reported my OUTPUT valve failed. Allowed only a trikle or less of water thru.
It is brass, but the internals are a plastic plunger (with a rubber seal) and a spring to keep it closed. The keeper holding the spring failed allowing it to open all the way, then almost sealing on the output connection of the valve, thus allowing only a trickle. I got the new valve at a Winn dealer but it was made by CAMCO. It is all brass including the plunger. I did have to add a "close nipple" as the input is male & output is female. This part looks much better. The Winn part is male both sides. On my coach hard to replace but did it in the parking lot @ THE RALLY in Redmond, OR. Orig was installed by someone with more strength then brains. Took a 12"cresent with a 2 foot "cheater" (my lug wrench?) to get it out.

Big Bear · 09-25-2007, 09:36 AM

Just another note, As posted before by "fayrankin " The access to the back of the heater is a 6-8" slot at the back of a 24" wide x 30" deep compartment. This sounds about like mine (although I believe the 30" & 24" sizes on mine were less) after removing a small cover plate on the bottom of heater compartment. The output is at the top & is a real job to get to, but I am about 245 lbs.