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Old 04-29-2006, 12:46 PM   #1
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Water heater(s) work (elec & LP), but no FLOW (zip, nada). Cold water flows ok. Same problems using elec pump...no hot water FLOW. Cold ok.

Reset the head (using P/T valve) on the water heater; no luck.

Water input is ok. No hot water outflow from any faucet in the hot water mode (sink, shower, outside shower). Worked ok 2 hours ago.
And I was going to take my Sat nite shower!

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Old 04-29-2006, 12:46 PM   #2
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Water heater(s) work (elec & LP), but no FLOW (zip, nada). Cold water flows ok. Same problems using elec pump...no hot water FLOW. Cold ok.

Reset the head (using P/T valve) on the water heater; no luck.

Water input is ok. No hot water outflow from any faucet in the hot water mode (sink, shower, outside shower). Worked ok 2 hours ago.
And I was going to take my Sat nite shower!

Thudman
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Old 04-29-2006, 01:02 PM   #3
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check the check valve comming out of your hot water line on back side of tank.
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Old 04-29-2006, 01:33 PM   #4
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OH Yeah! It's the check valve no doubt.
Had mine replaced 6 months ago. Water goes in the HW heater nothing comes out!
It's one big pain in the butt to get out too!
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Old 04-29-2006, 01:54 PM   #5
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Thanks, guys. That's the exercise that I use my chainsaw to access the back of the tank. Becuz on my rig, there is NO access panel. The tank has to come out. I went thru this drill about a year ago for another reason (elec arcing at back of tank). The tech tried to access from the adjoining basement compartment; but finally had to pull the tank. Had to rmv adjoining panel, wtr lines, elec lines/fixture, valves, etc. Oh fun!

I guess Winnie thinks we'll never have such a problem when they weld these rigs at the foundry.

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Old 04-29-2006, 02:09 PM   #6
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We have a switch for the HWH bypass. Make sure yours is not on before you do a lot of un-necessary work
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:51 PM   #7
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Hi I am kind of new here but have been reading this forum for over 2 years. I am with Doc on this one I accidently did the same thing when filling the tank one time this winter coming home from Texas, turned the bypass without thinking. DW was a little disappointed in me. Just a thought!
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Old 04-29-2006, 04:27 PM   #8
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Thudman,

The exact same thing happened to us last weekend!

Yes, it was the check valve. I had an appointment scheduled with my dealer for a PA state inspection and they also took care of the check valve in under an hour. Calcium-like deposits collected in the CV and the little movable plastic piece got stuck in the closed position. Was strange how it happened - took shower and went to bed Friday night - awoke Saturday morning and had no water flow from HW faucets. I could reach behind the heater and banged on it with a big screwdriver but it wouldn't break loose.

Back to normal now.
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Old 04-30-2006, 02:49 AM   #9
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Yes, I first checked the diverter valve---normal.

It's the check valve. I've got a call in to a mobile tech, but doubt they'll come out on Sunday. I can wait til tomorrow (Mon).

Appreciate everyone's input. You folks are great.

Thudman
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Old 04-30-2006, 02:57 AM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by motorcoach_couple:
Hi I am kind of new here but have been reading this forum for over 2 years. I am with Doc on this one I accidently did the same thing when filling the tank one time this winter coming home from Texas, turned the bypass without thinking. DW was a little disappointed in me. Just a thought! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Motorcoach couple, Welcome to the forum and thanks for your first post!!

Please feel free to jump in at any time...
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Old 04-30-2006, 05:35 AM   #11
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The last time my check valve failed I eliminated it, it is the valve on the output side (Hot) the reason for the valve is to isolate the Water heater during winterizing. I blow down my system and do not use anti-freeze, so there is no need for the valve.
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Old 04-30-2006, 07:23 PM   #12
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Hi Thudman,
Here is a previous thread on check valves and some options.
http://irv2.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/2486094452/m/6951049212
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Old 05-01-2006, 03:13 PM   #13
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MrTransistor; thx for the link---interesting reading.

My problem of course was the check valve; but it's a BEAR to access!! I took pix of the Tech trying to squeeze his bod inside the adjoining compartment, but don't know how to post it along with this thread (perhaps you could PM me with hints?). He had to rmv all the stuff I said in above post; about 1 1/2 hrs & $8 valve.

I intend to write an "Unsat" report to Winnie, with pix, for whatever it's worth. My suggestion would be to require the design engineers to change the valve on a completed 'Bago.

Still love my rig!

Thudman
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Old 05-02-2006, 09:16 AM   #14
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Hi Thudman,
Here is a link to a very descriptive thread on the topic of attaching photos to replies. It helped me a while back and I˜m ˜NET Plus' certified, go figure. First, set up a personal photo album, post photos to the album, then include the link to the photo in your reply as described.

http://irv2.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9146094452/m/9891082012

Like so.
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Old 05-02-2006, 03:58 PM   #15
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Thanks Mr Istor. I'll work on it.

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Old 05-06-2006, 04:51 PM   #16
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A leak has developed; one drip per second. Adjoining basement compartment floor is soaked. The tech said there was a leak at the joint where the plastic connector meets the brass check valve. But he tightened it. Now it's leaking again and the tech is in NC and I'm back in FL.

Tried to tighten it today, but space is too small to maneuver. Will try again tomorrow; hoping the wtr htr does not need to be pulled again.

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Old 05-06-2006, 05:10 PM   #17
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Maybe he cross threaded connection or didn't use any teflon tape on threads. "007"
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Old 05-08-2006, 04:28 PM   #18
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The water line compression nut to the check valve was a tad loose. Added a little torque & leak has stopped---for now. Thx to all for your thoughts.

Thudman, with skinned knuckles
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