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Old 04-21-2017, 10:40 AM   #1
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Grey Tank Overflow...

Had a slow drip from the shower head in this '02 Journey since I bought it 14 months ago. Recently installed a new seal kit and although that made the shower diverter work much better, still got that slow drip-drip-drip. The internals of the diverter valve seem in very good condition. No 'O' ring tears or anything. All plastic surfaces are smooth.

Anyway, I moved to a RV park with 80 PSI and forgot about the drip. Soon the shower's catch basin overflowed and made a huge mess because I hadn't gotten the sewer hooked up at that point.

So...anyone have any ideas on getting this slow drip stopped? Should I add a shut off valve behind the shower wall?

Is the diverter assembly bad? Mismanufactured somehow?

It looks as though I'd have to remove the entire shower stall to replace the diverter so I'd like to avoid that if possible.

Any ideas of how to get this annoying drip stopped? Thanks!



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Old 04-21-2017, 10:48 AM   #2
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Home Depot, Lowe's and just about any decent hardware store sell a 90 degree shut off valve that goes between the shower head and the hose. Doesn't solve the dripping valve problem but it will stop the drip from the shower head.
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:56 AM   #3
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Typically there's a 'push-button' type of shutoff valve in the shower hose line just ahead of the shower head. This is used to shut the water while dry camping in order to conserve water ('sea shower'). From the photos is looks as if this shutoff is missing. Any camping store should have one.

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Old 04-21-2017, 11:20 AM   #4
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I believe your faucet is leaking. You should be able to replace the valve.

The shower in my 2003 Adventurer was similar to yours. I had the factory replace my cheap Phoenix with a Moen, and they did not remove the stall.

If you replace your faucet I would tie strings to your water lines before removing them so they don't fall away behind the stall.
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:27 PM   #5
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I certainly wouldn't depend on a shut off valve between the hose and shower head. The main shower valve needs to be repaired or replaced. Figure out what brand and model it is (look in your manuals), then see if you can buy a rebuild kit for it. If parts cannot be had, then install a whole new valve assembly. If it was me, i'd try taking the thing apart. Ya never know, one O-ring might fix the problem.

Looked up the parts list for the 2002 Journey but it didn't give the brand of valve used. It did give Winnebago's part number which might be used to identify the manufacturer and/or the proper repair kit. Here it is now.

131340-01-01A VALVE - W/SHOWER HEAD - SINGLE LEVER
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:35 PM   #6
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Do you have a pressure regulator attached to your water supply hose so that the 80 psi CG water line doesn't do further damage to your water lines?

They can be bought at Walmart for about $25 I believe. We never camp without one.
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:37 PM   #7
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You mentioned a park with 80 PSI. Please install a pressure regulator which will maintain pressure throughout your rig at a more manageable and safe 40-45 PSI.

Regarding overflowing the tank prior to your being able to set up, you either have an extremely small grey tank or traveled with it nearly full. No reason to ever travel with a full or nearly full grey tank. Can't believe that anymore than a couple of gallons would drip, drip, drip over 24 hours from your shower.
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:48 PM   #8
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Remove cap on shower knob....then remove cap
Then remove diverter cover
Now you can disconnect cold/hot water lines to diverter valve and the outlet line to shower head (tying them off/securing them is good tip so you don't end up playing 'retrieve the water lines'

Replace diverter valve..........problem solved
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:28 PM   #9
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Here is a previous thread

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/part...ve-217801.html
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wbonsell View Post
You mentioned a park with 80 PSI. Please install a pressure regulator which will maintain pressure throughout your rig at a more manageable and safe 40-45 PSI.

Regarding overflowing the tank prior to your being able to set up, you either have an extremely small grey tank or traveled with it nearly full. No reason to ever travel with a full or nearly full grey tank. Can't believe that anymore than a couple of gallons would drip, drip, drip over 24 hours from your shower.
Already have added the pressure reducer. I was in a hurry that afternoon and got distracted.

The grey tank was empty. I'd just arrived at the park. So even though it overflowed, the water was clean.
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Old 04-22-2017, 12:24 AM   #11
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Also, a shower head valve you buy at Home Depot will stop the main flow but are designed to allow some water to leak thru (to deter hot water scalding). If you buy the plastic ones available on ebay or amazon that come from China, they will completely shut off.

My 2004 Chieftain looks just like yours and has worked flawlessly for 13 yrs ...7 yrs fulltiming. My recommendation is to buy the shower valve assembly guts and replace the internals.
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Old 04-22-2017, 08:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duner View Post
Also, a shower head valve you buy at Home Depot will stop the main flow but are designed to allow some water to leak thru (to deter hot water scalding). If you buy the plastic ones available on ebay or amazon that come from China, they will completely shut off.

My 2004 Chieftain looks just like yours and has worked flawlessly for 13 yrs ...7 yrs fulltiming. My recommendation is to buy the shower valve assembly guts and replace the internals.
I didn't really consider adding a shower head Off/On valves because those I'm familiar with all leaked a little. Now I know that they do that on purpose so I'll be on the look out for a made in China type. So that's one idea. I'm out in the boondocks now so I'll put off replacing the internals until I'm in an area with HD or Lowe's.
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:59 AM   #13
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Jim:

I replaced my Phoenix valve with a Moen, single handle valve. You do not have to go into the back of the wall.

Remove the handle and round plate and everything is right there. As others have stated be sure to tape under the compression nuts so they won't drop down and secure the pex tubes so they don't fall out of view.

The drip starts at the valve.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:02 AM   #14
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Slow drip you say? You could barely open the grey tank dump valve.
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:59 AM   #15
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Thanks for all the ideas!

Went to the only hardware store here in this little town of Beatty, NV, and discovered that the owner died last year and the family closed the store. So I'll wait until I'm on the road again and can stop at a Home Depot or something. Meanwhile I'll see if I can find the right parts via Winnebago parts list and get them online...
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