Garage - Page 2

srh · 02-10-2013, 08:08 AM

johnrr: What kind of door is it? How wide is it? D you have an opener as well?
Thanks,

JohnRR · 02-10-2013, 09:25 AM

20X14 insulated commercial model with a side mounted door opener and back up chain drive in case of power failure

Link to build thread
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/new-r...ng-106725.html

Petro · 02-10-2013, 10:15 AM

Nobody has ever build a garage that was to big that I have heard about. When I built my garage 20 years ago I sized it at 28 X 44 with 14' sidewalls. I installed a 12' W X 13' H door on one side for the motorhome and a 8 X 8 door on the other side for our 2 cars. Pusherman is correct in advising you to install a 14' door for the motorhome. I now wish I would have 15' side walls with a 14' door for the motorhome. I have found even though the garage is not heated , in winter months the garage is usually 10 degrees warmer than out side temperatures.

Don

Tpflyer · 02-10-2013, 01:03 PM

We have 2 feet of snow on the ground and the contractor said he would begin in March. I will take lots of pictures as the build goes progresses and when it is finished I will post them. We did spec a 12 x 14 foot door with a side opener. All the doors will open to the ceiling so there is no height restrictions. I might even change the front 10x10 door to a 10x12 door with a set of those windows they put above garage doors to add symmetry to the 14 foot tall door and add some natural light. Speaking of lights, my plan is to install fluorescent lights. The contractor said he could make recessed boxes so the lights will be flush with the finished ceiling. Is there any reason you can think of that might suggest this is not a good idea? A lot of large buildings seem to have these big globe like lights hanging down. I wonder if it is because of cost. I want plenty of light so when I am working on my Tour or one of my corvettes inside the building, I'm not working in the dark. I would rather have more light than not enough.

Pusherman · 02-10-2013, 03:55 PM

Cheapest and most efficient lighting for larger shops is fluorescent. I wouldn't use those big gas vapor lights. They actually have effects on tires, etc. And they aren't that more efficient than fluorescent lighting.

Only issue of the fluorescent lights in a box recessed into the ceiling is if the boxes block the distribution of the light, vs surface mounted to the ceiling.

jncSiightsee · 02-10-2013, 05:05 PM

If you are going to use fluorescent fixtures, you should spec high output, low temp fixtures. They are a bit more expensive, but will light up your garage well when it is cold. These are the same fixtures used in backlit awnings (ref. Blockbuster video)
They use an 800 ma ballast.

Jim

srh · 02-10-2013, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnRR

20X14 insulated commercial model with a side mounted door opener and back up chain drive in case of power failure

Link to build thread

Great Job, it looks very nice. May I ask, what the door w/opener cost you?
I have a very similar size, except mine is 24' W x 48' L pole barn made of steel, gable end at 24', but I have a 4"x4" post in the middle which makes the two halves less than 12' feet. So, a 12' x 14' would be a little too wide. May be I make one side 12', and make the other side 10' wide. What do you think?
I would welcome any suggestions.

KoolBell · 02-11-2013, 11:27 AM

I refused to let mine turn into a "shop" because I don't want anything to harm my Winnie.

I have added some pics showing the outside, the room inside, and a loft I built for light weight items.

We call it our BARN

I have a lot of items inside right now because of the terrible weather we are experiencing. 3 tornado warnings last night, and 4 inches of rain, with 5 -6 more inches expected today through Wednesday night. I may need that boat for survival...

Pusherman · 02-11-2013, 05:54 PM

KoolBell, Nice! And I like the coach inside too..

KoolBell · 02-11-2013, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pusherman

KoolBell, Nice! And I like the coach inside too..

Thanks. I can't complain about the building, but like all buildings I wish it was bigger at times.
The coach is a '12 Journey 36M. The building is 36 X 48 with a 12 X 32 loft. Still have to build the stairs to the loft, so ladders are currently in use. I have a Kawasaki Mule inside that stays inside, and tons of lawn furniture that normally stays outside.

quikbike · 02-17-2013, 07:00 AM

Mine is a barn as well. 26X40 and not big enough

Mr Miyagi · 02-17-2013, 10:11 AM

Our shed is 70x40...they're never big enough!

rebelcarm · 02-17-2013, 10:39 AM

Save the money on lights, no matter where you put them you will always work in the dark. Best things are the work lights that you can move around inside your building. I have 2 buildings one is 42 feet wide 32 feet deep 12 feet high for my aircraft it has a 40 foot wide electric bifold door. Other shop for RV is 55 feet deep 60 feet wide 18 feet high. Doors are 12 feet wide 14 feet high, one door is 12 high 10 feet wide. Portable lights are the way to go, with some lights permanent for entry way and exit. Never enough room , sure is nice to service Monaco RV inside when home in Canada.

vsheetz · 02-17-2013, 11:36 AM

For lighting my shop I included overhead flouresant fixtures for general lighting. But as was mentioned you will always be in shadows. Over workbenches and assembly tables are dedicated lighting. Plus there are several work lights on retractable cord reels in the open area. Just reach up and pull one down to where you are working.

bachler · 02-17-2013, 12:11 PM

I will share My experiance;;; We have an Ultimate" I poured a concrete Slab. 16' by 40' Every 8 Feet on each side I nstalled/cemented in a 2 1/2by 2 1/2 24" long Steel squ.tubing Like a trailer hitch reciever; With 1/2 Inch holes drilled in them; Then out of 2'X2" square tubing I made My framing 12' 6 ' each side 16 " across the top with a 2 Foot Peak; These are all welded. With 1/4 Inch metal tabes on then to Install The 2' x 6' stringers on.I built them all Them 6 of On the Deck. Then I stood them up and droped them into the cemented recievers. Drilled the anchor bolts and bolted it in place. Installed the 2" x 6" stringers. Installed the sides, Then put the roof on all steel I used a couple 10" uprights and then Installed Plexoglass For light . I layed the Forms puored the concrete Cut drilled the Square tubing. Done all the work my self.. It was a job You see I'm 73 years old. . I have encountered several problems. One is I will need to raise the Building . Because Winnebago Droped the basement air and now has Increased the Height Near 12 Inches.. One question keeps comming Up... why the Tubing into the Cenented in tubing.. In our area this is considered a temperary building. And you don't have the the disney cheracter snoopy /government Comming around.. now you don't need a Permit. Like I need someone to tell me/us to make a building strong enough to protect our $300,000.00 motorhome;. Oh i have tryed those pullover covers. I can only say. Everyone needs to install one once.. after replacing the broken antennas/vent covers and a host of other things, You will do as i did And give the ^%$#%^ thing away; The cost for our cover with the swing our doors was very small. If you do all the work.. Life is good

FIRE UP · 02-17-2013, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bachler

I will share My experiance;;; We have an Ultimate" I poured a concrete Slab. 16' by 40' Every 8 Feet on each side I nstalled/cemented in a 2 1/2by 2 1/2 24" long Steel squ.tubing Like a trailer hitch reciever; With 1/2 Inch holes drilled in them; Then out of 2'X2" square tubing I made My framing 12' 6 ' each side 16 " across the top with a 2 Foot Peak; These are all welded. With 1/4 Inch metal tabes on then to Install The 2' x 6' stringers on.I built them all Them 6 of On the Deck. Then I stood them up and droped them into the cemented recievers. Drilled the anchor bolts and bolted it in place. Installed the 2" x 6" stringers. Installed the sides, Then put the roof on all steel I used a couple 10" uprights and then Installed Plexoglass For light . I layed the Forms puored the concrete Cut drilled the Square tubing. Done all the work my self.. It was a job You see I'm 73 years old. . I have encountered several problems. One is I will need to raise the Building . Because Winnebago Droped the basement air and now has Increased the Height Near 12 Inches.. One question keeps comming Up... why the Tubing into the Cenented in tubing.. In our area this is considered a temperary building. And you don't have the the disney cheracter snoopy /government Comming around.. now you don't need a Permit. Like I need someone to tell me/us to make a building strong enough to protect our $300,000.00 motorhome;. Oh i have tryed those pullover covers. I can only say. Everyone needs to install one once.. after replacing the broken antennas/vent covers and a host of other things, You will do as i did And give the ^%$#%^ thing away; The cost for our cover with the swing our doors was very small. If you do all the work.. Life is good

bachler,
I feel for you and the work you did. Our little cover over our Itasca is basically a sister to yours only on a smaller, lighter scale. You see, I hate "INSPECTORS" TOO! And, the permit system around here is as usual, a nightmare and the rules are hideous. So, I took a chance and, just put a "Swap meet" style cover. I anchored 2" galvanized poles to the ground and then tied in a frame to all of them. When done, it covers the coach so that no sun sees the coach, EVER, unless we're using it. It by far, is no where near as nice as the ones displayed here already. I'm so incredibly envious of them.

But, it's what I could afford and, still get the nice rig covered. Yes, those
"throw on" covers severly suck. We don't have the snow here where we live so, the one I made is doing nicely. Any cover is better than none but, a drive-under is way better than a throw on one.
Scott

bachler · 02-17-2013, 07:41 PM

That looks good and will do the Job. ; I can't see paying $200,000.00 to $300,000.00 for a coach and haveing it set out in the elaments.. Tho some will say they are made to take it.. When you are shopping to buy one then you will See the differance. I will down load the pictures When i get The computer to agree with me.. Life is good

KIX · 02-17-2013, 08:10 PM

Here's the one I built for our coach. 16' x 46' x 14" peak with 6" concrete and 8" concrete where jacks contact. About $7800 including 50 amp electric. I did all the work except building erection and concrete finishing. Sure is nice too.

JohnRR · 02-17-2013, 08:53 PM

Just a different point of view on lighting without going off topic.

Three rows of four lights at 15' intervals in all directions which makes them over the isles, 450 watts each and I have no dark spots at the floor level day or night time but I still use a drop light under a vehicle out of force of habit. Think of the super bright gas station islands you see at night and that's me.

The lights sold originally for over $680 each but I bought them six months old for $65 each including shipping from California to Michigan because the auditorium they were bought for wanted lights they could dim

They were just what I wanted looks and plenty of light.

FIRE UP · 02-17-2013, 09:15 PM

JohnRR,
I'm certainly not the smartest in construction techniques and applications but, I notice that your building is close to being finished and, it has a DIRT floor

. Now, 100% of the buildings built out here in So CA, put the slab down first and then the building on top of it. Or, is there a slab under that dirt that I cannot see? Just wondering here.
Scott