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Old 06-17-2007, 06:22 PM   #1
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Dumped the tanks today. Black tank valve pull handle was very hard to pull but it did pull out. There was also resistance to closing the valve at the end of the dump session.

I put some penetrating oil on the pull handle stem to see if that would help. One pull later and the cable came loose from the pull handle. The cable is still attached but the point where the rubber coating goes into the cable assembly pull handle came out.

Is there a way to fix this by reattaching the pull handle to a different part of the cable? There is a couple of feet of slack.

If not, how hard is it to replace the cable assembly for the pull handle on the black tank? Any hints or lessons learned to share?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:22 PM   #2
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Dumped the tanks today. Black tank valve pull handle was very hard to pull but it did pull out. There was also resistance to closing the valve at the end of the dump session.

I put some penetrating oil on the pull handle stem to see if that would help. One pull later and the cable came loose from the pull handle. The cable is still attached but the point where the rubber coating goes into the cable assembly pull handle came out.

Is there a way to fix this by reattaching the pull handle to a different part of the cable? There is a couple of feet of slack.

If not, how hard is it to replace the cable assembly for the pull handle on the black tank? Any hints or lessons learned to share?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-18-2007, 03:10 AM   #3
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Bummer. But for these experts to help you, they're going to need to know what rig you have. I'll read this too because my cables are tight also
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:07 AM   #4
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As Belgique says, we need to know what year, and model you have.

I can only comment on my coach. Both gray, and black have cable release valves. I don't know why but the valves seem to get gummed up after a couple of years. My cable handles are threaded to the end of the cables. Changing the cables, or in fact I would suggest changing the valves too, is not too bad of a job IF you can easily get to the valves. My coach isn't bad, but I have seen a couple of Adventures that look like you would need a midget to get to the valves.

After you get the valves fixed I found that if you fill the tank with clear water and as you dump the tank, work the valve open, and closed a few times. This seems to clean out the valve and the valve seems much freer.
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:53 AM   #5
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I have a 2000 Itasca 35U

sorry...
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:56 AM   #6
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The valves on the 35U are nasty to get at. I have replaced both black and grey water valves and cables, you have to remove the metal plate which holds all of the connections, switches etc. to get at the valves. be careful with the switches as they can pull apart. It has many tight places to get your hands into which also means cuts and scratches. I took me about four hours to replace both the valves and cables.
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:13 AM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Nutimik63 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Well, that confirms my assessment of our 2001 35U. I posted on this awhile back and no one had actually done it. It looked like it would be a several 6 pack job and from you say, that is at least the case. Is there enough slack in the panel wiring and plumbing to where you don't have to disconnect or is it best to just remove it completly? I bet I know the answer . Ours work now, just stiff (and I've done all the lubing recommended). Thanks all! Steve
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