black water tank indicator lights

richierich · 09-14-2007, 02:43 PM

Anyone have a suggestion on how I can reset the LEDs, on the indicator board, on why the 4 lights show I have a full black tank. Have flushed, rode around over some stop and go roads, to no avail. They show a full tank, when I know its empty. I flush the tank, after every trip, useing the flush system. Nothing, anyone else have this problem? Thanks

richierich · 09-14-2007, 02:43 PM

Anyone have a suggestion on how I can reset the LEDs, on the indicator board, on why the 4 lights show I have a full black tank. Have flushed, rode around over some stop and go roads, to no avail. They show a full tank, when I know its empty. I flush the tank, after every trip, useing the flush system. Nothing, anyone else have this problem? Thanks

jtharley · 09-14-2007, 03:27 PM

Mine was just the opposite. The indicator lights inside the coach always show empty except for the propane. The lights in the outside bay read accurately.....I didn't know there was even such a thing as a reset switch. Since mine is under warranty I'm just waiting till I take it in for some service at the dealer and then have them look at it.

KIX · 09-14-2007, 05:02 PM

I read something somewhere (poor memory) about an adjustable "pot" on the back of the PC board. Never looked at mine but if it works I sure do need to. Sorry I'm not more help.

Gary the Wombat · 09-14-2007, 06:27 PM

Mine have given innacurate readings several times over the last 12 months--right now the gray tank lights are the problem. It has always cleared up after several complete flushes with clean water--a long sit with a full tank and an enzyme chemical has also helped. I'd try to flush the system several times before messing around with the electrics--I think it nearly always is a result of some material in the tank next to the sensors that causes the problem.

PaulC · 09-15-2007, 02:09 AM

The sensors in my black water tank always read full too. I tried water, and various "sensor cleaners" At last I found a successful solution. I put about 1/4 tank of water, a half a bottle of spic 'n span, and two bags of ice cubes into the tank and drove about 25 miles. I emptied it out, flushed it with the tank sprayer, put about another 1/4 of water in it and drove around again. Emptied and flushed again. Wonder of wonders, they finally started working again. For how long they will work I don't know.

jtharley · 09-15-2007, 03:09 AM

Stupid question but are everyones sensors on the outside of the tanks like on my vectra? I can understand how a good cleaning and enzyme solution would work for interior sensors.

John Mc · 09-15-2007, 03:52 AM

I suspect it's due to "build up" on the inside walls of the tank that is causing the outside sensors to read "full". The ice cube trick works for us too.

David K · 09-15-2007, 05:12 AM

I have heard about several different "soaps" to put in the black tank -- spic-n-span, dish washing soap, regular laundry detergent. The other cleaning "additive" is always ice. The soap and the water is to "clean" the inside of the tank to get rid of the buildup and the ice serves as the agitator with the side effect being it melts so it does not stay in the tank. I think the real secret is to always clean your tank after each dump -- I always do -- and since I have the built in backwasher I always backwash after each dump and rinse.

FLYTYER · 09-15-2007, 05:17 AM

Here is what I do each fall before leaving for Florida...

First I add 2 Automatic dish washer tablets to the gray and black water tanks. Next I add about 25 gallons of water to each. Then I take a 5 to 10 mile ride.

When I get home I throughly flush the gray and black water tanks and drain by tilting the motor home with the passenger side levelers to get as much water out as possible.

Next I locate the sensors and remove them one at a time. Mine are stainless steel phillips head screws. I clean the tips with a small wire brush, Steel wool would work too. I replace the sensors and then check the monitor panel.

Almost every time the lights show empty. If necessary I remove the panel and adjust the small potentiometer for each tank that does not show empty. Press the test button and make the adjustment to cause only the empty light to stay on.

A few years back I called Winnebago Customer Service about this problem in our Minnie and they told me about this adjustment. SInce then I have heard that not all Monitor Panels have this adjustment feature.

Note when I do this I also disassemble the gray and black water tank drain/flush valves, clean and lube them. This provides smooth valve operation and prevents leaks.

Clay L · 09-15-2007, 06:08 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jtharley:
Stupid question but are everyones sensors on the outside of the tanks like on my vectra? I can understand how a good cleaning and enzyme solution would work for interior sensors. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

In 2005 Winnebago went standard across the line with the TruLevel non-contact sensor system.

Please note that even the non-contact system can be fooled by crud build-up on the tank walls, so keeping the walls clean is important with it also.

richierich · 09-15-2007, 01:49 PM

Thanks for all the replys. I flush the tank twice, after each trip. Have rode around for miles, actual days, from Florida, to New york, same readings on the black tank. Have adjusted the pot behind the panel, still reads full. Guess Ill find a dealer, that has done this before, other than that, will just have to wing it, and pay attention to how many times we flush. Thanks all. Have a 2002 Horizon, w/ 55k miles, and tow a 06 Saturn.

AFChap · 09-16-2007, 06:39 AM

I accidentally discovered something about my tank sensor lights ya'll might want to check out. I have my water service bay partially disassembled trying to get to the gray tank dump valve to replace it (what a chore! -- Winnebago apparently built my coach with the belief the dump valves would never have to be replaced!!)

I have the panel with the outside tank level indicator board disconnected. This morning I pushed the button inside the coach to trgger the indicator lights and found they ALL appear to read accurately! For a couple of years now the black tank has always read full and the gray tank has never gone above 1/3. But without the outside indicator board connected, the inside board seems to be reading accurately.

The outside board would not operate at all for awhile a couple of years ago. I removed it and found corrosion on it as if it had been wet. I cleaned it up and it worked after that. It seemed to be somewhat accurate, but I think that is also when the inside board started giving false readings for black and gray tanks.

I have had both boards out from time to time, and have attempted to get better readings by adjusting the little "pots" on the boards. That seemed to help a little, but not much. I almost always use the black tank flush when dumping (and note that the flush connection is directly above the tank level indicator light -- and the connection always dribbles water down the panel and across the lights when I disconnect it).

I believe now that the outside board is bad due to moisture, and has been throwing the inside board off. Guess I need to buy a new board for the outside and watch the water dribble from the flush connection (or forget it and just use the inside board) and see if everything works right again!

Clay L · 09-16-2007, 06:54 AM

Regarding the black tank; I made a right angle nozzle for a pressure washer out of a quick coupler, a galvanized L and a cap with a 1/16 inch diameter hole drilled in it.
I then put the pressure washer wand down through the toilet and washed the sides of the tank. That cleaned the gunk off the walls and the non-contact TruLevel system then showed the correct level.
I add a cap of liquid Tide to the black tank each time I empty it to help keep the walls clean. I use Tide because that's what DW uses and it's handy.

KIX · 09-16-2007, 03:13 PM

Paul, maybe I can help you some on your valve change out. I just went through it last year while in Forest City. The compartment just forward of your wet bay has a screwed on panel that is on the aft wall of that compartment. Remove the screws and the panel. There is some styrofoam insulation that you will have to cut away to have access to the gray and the black valves. You do not need to remove the wet bay control panel at all.
Another hint...make up a 3/4 inch hose and connect it to your tank flush then when connecting a hose to flush just connect it to the already connected 3/4 inch hose. It will keep water from draining on the monitor board. Feel free to contact me directly for additional info. [email protected]

AFChap · 09-16-2007, 07:06 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">maybe I can help you some on your valve change out </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Kix

Did you watch the process when your valve was replaced??

I had the black valve replaced about 18 mo ago while the MH was at a dealer for some other items, but was not there to watch the process. I discovered later that the dealer service dept had cut a 4" round hole in the wall of the pass-thru storage compartment beside the valves to get to the black valve for replacement. It wasn't that hard to just remove 1/2 of the compartment wall, which I have already done ...don't know why they didn't just do that rather than cutting a hole in the wall, but they did fabricate a very nice cloth-covered patch over their hole! Even more months later, I found the service dept had also cut a 4" round hole in the sheet metal bottom panel of the coach to gain access to the two far-side bolts on the valve! ...they covered that one with a neatly cut square galvanized metal panel screwed in place and well sealed with silicone.

I did get access to the gray valve yesterday, and after some working at it and hack-sawing a thin metal plate between the two compartments, manged to get enough hand access to all four bolts that hold the dump valve in place. However, with all the bolts out I could not separate the plumbing enough to get the old valve out, or more importantly to get a replacement valve with new seals intact in! There are rubber connections at each end of the plumbing (one at gray tank and one at black tank) held in place with large hose clamps. I may need to loosen them to get the plumbing movement I need, but the screws on the clamps at the gray end are not accessible ...they are on the bottom, out of sight, and pointed away from my only access route. I may end up cutting another hole in the bottom pan of the MH so I can get a hand into where I need to in order to get to the clamp screws. There is an additional easily removable bottom pan under the MH at that point ...the space between the removable panel and the "floor" pan is used as an enclosed wiring/hydraulic hose, etc.

Good idea on the flush connection ...a right angle connector and short hose would get the water drips below the monitor board.

KIX · 09-17-2007, 05:13 AM

Paul,
Before taking our coach to Forest City to replace the black valve I had tried to gain access for several days. Since we had to go the FC for other items I had them replace the valave while there. since I had worked so doggone hard to do it myself I discussed at length with the tech exactly how the he accomplished it. What I told you is what he told me. I did locate the compartment panel that he removed. He said that the valve was totally accessible when the panel was removed. he never mentioned any screws that couldn't be accessed as youi have described. So, I don't know how to help with what you're facing.

rutny · 09-17-2007, 08:31 PM

Yesterday, the black and grey tanks were both 2/3 full... for sure... 15 minutes down the road, both the grey and black indicator lights read empty... we we scared that we had dumped our tanks through some weird leak!!... nope, tanks were still almost full though... so I suspect my electronics panel to be faulty, because they both went wrong at the same time... curiously, we were on smooth, paved roads, no bumps either!! Would this be a quick fix at a dealer? Time is of the essence...

Gary the Wombat · 09-18-2007, 05:19 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rutny:
Would this be a quick fix at a dealer? Time is of the essence... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

My own experience has been that "quick fix" and "dealer" are never found together in this universe. Good luck!

j griff · 09-20-2007, 01:01 PM

My fresh water, gray and black water indicators all have failed to register for the last several months, regardless of content. Propane level is fairly consistent with on tank guage. We have done all the extra flushing, etc., that folks talk about to no avail. I am interested in any instruction for resetting the LEDs on the control panel. Thanks.