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12-23-2008, 04:45 PM
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#1
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 17
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Now a new problem not having very good luck..Just replaced 10gal Atwood hot water heater (had a small hole in 2 half year old one) anyway got it all in and had to put old check valves back in inlet one guts fell apart so i just put it in without guts lol. Got hot water to heat in tank, but no hot water at faucets, turned bypass valve and started getting hot water but it slowly gets less and less pressure till its just a trikle. Let it sit and it will have pressure again then go down. Any ideas maybe check valves? How bout just taking all the check valves out ?
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12-23-2008, 04:45 PM
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#2
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 17
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Now a new problem not having very good luck..Just replaced 10gal Atwood hot water heater (had a small hole in 2 half year old one) anyway got it all in and had to put old check valves back in inlet one guts fell apart so i just put it in without guts lol. Got hot water to heat in tank, but no hot water at faucets, turned bypass valve and started getting hot water but it slowly gets less and less pressure till its just a trikle. Let it sit and it will have pressure again then go down. Any ideas maybe check valves? How bout just taking all the check valves out ?
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12-24-2008, 05:42 PM
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#3
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 17
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Ok problem solved i took both check valves off the back of hwh and gutted them and replace them have tons of hot water pressure now better then when it was new lol thanks have a Merry Christmas everyone
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12-24-2008, 06:29 PM
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#4
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern Oklahoma
Posts: 871
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Glad you found and solved your problem. Its really scary the number of problems those insignificant little things are causing on this forum. Would almost be worth it to have the dealer take them out and throw them away before even taking delivery of a new coach.
Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G
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12-25-2008, 02:02 AM
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#5
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: North East Indiana
Posts: 762
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Those stinking valves have cost me $350.00 so far. Any more problems and I am going to rig up a manual valve system to by pass the HWH.
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12-25-2008, 02:30 AM
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#6
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Titusville, FL
Posts: 128
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Had the same problem on ours. Got rid of both check valves and good to go.
__________________
"Home is where we park it" SEMPER FI
Winnie 30 RESS UltraLite TT 2015
Ford F250 XLT 2015
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12-25-2008, 02:42 AM
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#7
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by kscouple52:
Now a new problem not having very good luck..Just replaced 10gal Atwood hot water heater (had a small hole in 2 half year old one) anyway got it all in and had to put old check valves back in inlet one guts fell apart so i just put it in without guts lol. Got hot water to heat in tank, but no hot water at faucets, turned bypass valve and started getting hot water but it slowly gets less and less pressure till its just a trikle. Let it sit and it will have pressure again then go down. Any ideas maybe check valves? How bout just taking all the check valves out ? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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12-25-2008, 03:36 AM
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#8
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lambertville Mi
Posts: 174
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Had same problem last Sept. I now carry a spare check valve.
__________________
Adventurer 38R/ now 26 Class C
Equinox Toad
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12-27-2008, 10:54 AM
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#9
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Grayson, GA
Posts: 344
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Homer --- I did exactly what you are talking about --- I put a "jumper line between the hot output line and the cold input line. It has a valve on it that stays closed when not winterizing. When winterizing, I open that valve and shut the two that I put in the cold and hot water lines after and before where the jumper line leaves the cold and hot water lines respectively. Hope that makes sense --- now I have zero problems that were caused by the check valves. My understanding was that the check valves were needed only for the winterization process only anyway.
__________________
Dave and Karen -- '02 Ultimate Advantage 36 C, 350 HP Cummins, Allison 3060 Tranny
'13 Ford Edge, InvisiBrake
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12-27-2008, 11:11 AM
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#10
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 17
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Now i get hot water but it doesnt seem to stay hot that long before its gets cooler and cooler, IM just wondering bye taking the check valve off the cold water inlet side that now its letting the cold water in to fast and cooling down the hot water in the tank, any ideas on this one?
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12-27-2008, 12:46 PM
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#11
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: North East Indiana
Posts: 762
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DAVID K: It reads as though you did exactly what I intend to do the next time I have trouble with check valves. One can usually foretell when they are going bad, when he starts getting that buzzing sound from them when the hot water is turned on in the coach. My understanding is the same as yours, their only function is to assist in winterizing.
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12-27-2008, 01:49 PM
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#12
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 73
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The check valves are there to keep hot water from backing up into the cold water supply.
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01-13-2009, 02:46 AM
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#13
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 387
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The check valves are there to keep hot water from backing up into the cold water supply. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Wrong. The check valves are to facilitate winterizing so it can be done with "one valve" (LOL)...
__________________
Last Brave 2004 34D
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