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Old 04-29-2005, 12:03 PM   #21
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Donavon,

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm away for a few days, w/o the MH . I'll try it when I get back on Sunday and let you know how it works.

Bob
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Old 04-29-2005, 01:13 PM   #22
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Suggestion for temporary fix: From stationary or art supply store, get foam board (aka mounting board); its about 1/4" thick board foam sandwiched between thick white paper covering & cuts easily w/Xacto knife or the like. Cut a shim the shape & size of the tstat, & dismount/remount the tstat w/the foam shim between it and the wall. Should cut down on heat transmission. Might add a piece of aluminum foil for reflector layer as well; new houses are using that a lot & show drop in thermal transmission thru walls so equiped.
If this works, you can get board foam in 1/2" or so & cover the inside wall of the TV box behind the tstat. Board foam @ Home Depot or Lowes.
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Old 04-30-2005, 04:33 AM   #23
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EngineerMike,

Thanks for the suggestion. I already have something along those lines now, but probably not as efficient as the foam board.

Directly behind the thermo is a hole approx 1 1/2" in diameter for the wiring harness. When the dealer changed the thermo he put 1/2" foam tape around the hole in the 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock position. Since the sensor on the thermo is in the lower left corner, his thought was that any heat coming through the hole would now vent up and away from the sensor. My experiment showed that this had no effect so in addition to that I filled the hole with fiberglass insulation and also put window/door insulation around the access door for the w/d faucets since this is directly below the thermo. Those don't seem to help either.

I think covering the opening behind the TV with foam as you suggested is a good idea but I'll wait on Winnebago to do that. The access from behind is restricted/impossible due to all the wiring in that cavity. To remove the TV I see at least 2 clamps underneath and one of those is not easily reached. Plus I think a trim piece above the TV has to be removed. I believe this is a problem for all 37B's and I'm under warranty so I'd prefer they fix it.

I'll be calling them on Monday to let them know about my little experiment. I hope they will do something to fix this.

BTW IMHO this is still one of the best floorplans around.

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:25 AM   #24
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Donavon,
Went to try your suggestion but I'm not sure what you mean by a radio selector switch. The only thing I see in the cupboard is a circular plate, mounted on the ceiling, with a hole in it for the wire to the sound surround speaker. Other than that the cupboard is totally enclosed. If this is what you are talking about it appears the hole that's exposed now wouldn't be any larger with the plate removed.
Bob
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Old 05-02-2005, 11:55 AM   #25
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Hi Bob,

The black metal plate that the switch is mounted in can be removed for testing air flow.

I took a picture of the plate and will send it to you email if you want it.
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Old 05-02-2005, 12:53 PM   #26
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Donavon,

I'd appreciate seeing the picture because I don't see any black plate in the cupboards that are behind the glass doors.

My e-mail is listed under my profile.

Thanks, Bob
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Old 05-02-2005, 01:21 PM   #27
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Bob,

The picture is sent. Hope it helps.
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Old 05-02-2005, 01:36 PM   #28
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For those that may be interested, the mystery was solved when I saw the picture. Apparently the 04 & 05 37B store the electronics for TV/DVD/VCR in different places. Donavon's are in the cupboard above the TV hutch, mine are in the compartment above the dash on the passenger side. Assume it's a model year change but might have to do with # of TV's in the living area. I only have the hutch TV.
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Old 05-03-2005, 05:22 AM   #29
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Called Winnebago today and told them the changing of the thermostat didn't help. This being a fairly new floorplan they have not had this problem reported before. All the techs meet on Thursdays so this problem will be discussed.

Cousin Ed - Have you heard anything from your dealer yet?

Bob
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Old 05-04-2005, 05:15 PM   #30
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Flagg RV called me about a week ago that the MH was ready, but I asked them if they could keep it for a few weeks because that's when we go back to our NY house, which has room for it.

But... if Winnebago is only about to discuss the problem I don't have high hopes that ours was fixed. Flagg is pretty good; so maybe they invented something. I'll post it as soon as we pick it up.
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Old 05-09-2005, 05:16 AM   #31
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Talked with my dealer today. Winnebago has heard of 3 others with this problem so they want the dealer to build a heat shield for the area behind the TV.
Have an appointment on the 19th. Could have had one for tomorrow but if it had to stay overnight for some reason I didn't want to chance it since we are heading out Thursday for PA. Will let you know what happens.

Bob
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Old 05-11-2005, 05:25 AM   #32
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Out in the Sun

I asked several Techs what the output temp for the basement air should be, but no one knew. The dash air should be between 45-55 degrees depending on the outside air, etc., but I couldn't find information on the roof vents. So I got out my Pencil Thermometer and turned on the House A/C here is what I found. The outside air was 88* and about 70% humidity. The first compressor came on and the temp in the first vent in the rear of the coach was 59- 60*. When the second compressor came online the reading went to 48-50*
When I took the reading from the front of the coach there was only 1 to 2 degree difference that's not bad for a 38 foot shot +/- back to front with all the vents wide open!

This could be a good way to check the performance of the AC especially if there are questions regarding low coolant levels or leaks in the duct work, like I had, etc.
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Old 05-11-2005, 05:59 AM   #33
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It is all based of "Deltas".

If you are getting a Delta of 40 degrees you are doing better than the spec on the AC system calls for. Be a happy camper.
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Old 05-11-2005, 08:45 AM   #34
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For your main A/C you should have a temperature difference of 15 to 20 dF between the supply air (coming out of the duct) and the return air (going into the filter of the unit). If you have more or less, temperature difference you may have a problem.

Check you air filter and make sure the evaporator coil is clean.

In order to check/add refrigerant to a selaed unit, you will need to add temporary saddle-type schrader vaolves to check your pressures and to pull the remaining refrigerant from the unit. Next you need to have schrader valves permanately soldered intot he line, the system vaccuum dehydrated and then recharged with refrigerant.

It is not hard to do if you have the right tools and the knowledge.

Ken
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Old 05-12-2005, 05:09 AM   #35
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I never said I have a problem. I was just curious about the temp in the air vent before it exhausts into the coach. The main thing I was curious about is the delta from 1 to 2 compressors online. From what I've seen the delta would be 8 to 12 degree increase in cooling no matter what the temp is in or outside. Doing so it would be just a quick check to see if the A/C is putting out cold especially when the second compressor comes into play.
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