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Old 11-17-2015, 09:40 AM   #21
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I recently did this in our 2007 Vista. We are a young family so we use ours as a camper more so than a home and often are dry camping in National Parks or on the move so TV wasn't that important to us. We don't even have cable TV at home only OTA so it is not something the kids will miss. I chose to remove the old RCA and the bottom part of the bracket to make it flush with the existing cabinetry. I also chose to make it a 12v system by selecting a 28" Insignia TV (a 32" tv would fit also but we just didn't need it) and Sony Blu-Ray that were inherently 12v using wall wart converters that I converted to 12v aux plugs. Below are before, during and after of how I did it. We did not need the extra space so I reused the old carpeted plywood bottom from the frame as the new plug for the opening that the TV mount attaches to. It fit perfectly.





This shows the old frame and the new opening before I trimmed the frame and reassembled. If gives a good perspective of how much forward visibility is blocked by the old tv. This was important to us for the kids to see as we travel.



The after:


Including DVD shelf, running on 12v only in that picture:



Let me know if you have any questions.

While we are on the subject, after hitting my head on the Bedroom TV shelf at least 6 times while redoing the floors, I opted to take it down and install a Charging station for our various devices (phones, iPad, Kindle, etc). The shelf was pointless with today's wall mount brackets and we prefer having a place to put our devices at night. We have both 12v and 120v to choose from depending on the camping we are doing. It works great.

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Old 11-17-2015, 04:58 PM   #22
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What I did: Measured width of opening. Purchased new TV to match, as it turns out exactly. (Ok, pawn shop (took tape measure w/me) Used TV)

Removed bottom from compartment, cut sides, replaced bottom (not as easy as I describe it but not all that hard, Had to deal with the faux leather covering which was the hard part)

Installed new TV, cut down trim and installed it, Now I have a 3 or 4" "Gap" but a strip of Gorilla tape (matches color of TV covers that, Eventually I will....

Planned improvements: Mount a Mini-disc player and a Sat receiver in the gap, framing them in properly.

"Finish" the inside of the cabinet.. install shelves and make the TV itself a "Door" so I can store DVD's Mini-Discs, CD's and the like in there.
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:58 PM   #23
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Many great ideas for mounting the TV. I have a couple of suggestions about selecting a TV:
After determining the size you want (I put a 32" LCD in a 2002 Itasca Horizon) go to Ebay. I found many refurbished Vizio TV's for really good prices.
If you have a surround sound/home theater system be sure to look for a TV with "variable audio output" those will seamlessly fit into the sound system.
I created a mounting system from plywood and steel angle brackets and then mounted a LCD TV bracket I purchased from Monoprice.com (also a great place to get HDMI cables).
While the TV is out it is a good time to run cables for any future expansions - Blu Ray player, satellite receiver and so on. It is much more difficult to fish cables after the TV is installed.
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Old 11-21-2015, 09:59 PM   #24
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Here's my installation: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/2003...ed-158329.html

I then put in a sound bar: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/sound-bar-238592.html

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Old 11-26-2015, 11:39 AM   #25
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2005 Adventurer

The 2005 appears to have a different front cover for the tv than others that I can't get off. Any suggestions?
I got it! Just had to pull harder. Thanks.
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Old 11-26-2015, 05:34 PM   #26
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When I did mine I started by measuring the opening, Then I found a pawn shop which had a nice wide screen the same width.

I shortened the box (raised the floor) and fit it in.. looks good, Works good, Still have plans for some upgrading but not just yet (Wish to use the empty space for storage).
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Old 11-26-2015, 06:23 PM   #27
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I originally had a 27" analog TV mounted in the front, I initially replaced with a 26" Sony LCD, it worked OK but I found a good deal on a 32" LED that fit in the same footprint as the original TV. Since it was very thin on the edges it didn't protrude much past the side pieces. If I tried to go bigger I wouldn't be able to open either of the side cabinets.

The TV I bought was a return at Sam's club and I saved a bunch, they also had an open box special on a swing out wall mount. I found a piece of ~1.5" aluminum baluster at Lowes (on clearance ).

I had to determine the right distance side to side to mount the baluster so that the TV & mount would be in the right position. I used some brackets to mount the top of the baluster to the metal cross member in the motor home and the decorative base to secure the bottom. I then mounted the TV mount at the right height. The TV mount had a swivel head so that I could make it align to the slope of the front cabinet.

I decided to make the TV secure while traveling by using screen door clips that you turn to release the TV. [The first TV I mounted had the back plastic support fail from the bouncing, it was a heavier TV but I think any TV would have a problem if it wasn't supported. ] The TV swings out which provides better viewing from the kitchen table or couch. I can also swivel enough to watch TV while sitting outside (if I want).

I put a shelf in behind the TV so I can store CD's of DVD's on it and then more storage below. We keep a set of binoculars in there also and misc electronic connectors. When the TV is placed in travel mode it is very secure and nothing behind it can fall out. There is a fair amount of storage behind the TV.

To finish out the opening I had a piece of ceiling material. I made a cover to fit on the inside of the cabinet to cover the opening, I put a piece of fiberglass insulation across the front prior to doing this to help reduce the amount of heat generated from the sun. I then took a board cut to the proper dimensions and put a layer of ceiling material on it and mounted it across the top, since it's the same color of the ceiling material it provided a finished look.

Here are some pictures
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Front Picture.pdf (440.8 KB, 89 views)
File Type: pdf TV swiveled out.pdf (405.5 KB, 72 views)
File Type: pdf Wall Mount Attachment.pdf (524.4 KB, 65 views)
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Old 11-26-2015, 06:46 PM   #28
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I had a 46" flat screen Sharpe (2008 vintage) that lost the audio. Took it out and found a Samsung 50" LED Smart TV that fits the box horizontally perfect, vertically, I have a 3/4" gap on the top that is hardly noticeable. The Samsung weighs close to 1/3 of the the old one.
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Old 05-23-2018, 07:30 AM   #29
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My 34 2001 Adventurer has the original TV DOA syndrome~


We picked up a 32" flat last weekend to get us through~


Q: Is this still the best thread to discuss this mod / upgrade?
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Old 05-23-2018, 11:26 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_Bridge View Post
My 34 2001 Adventurer has the original TV DOA syndrome~


We picked up a 32" flat last weekend to get us through~


Q: Is this still the best thread to discuss this mod / upgrade?

You can discuss the mod in this thread or feel free to start a new one with your discussion/questions. Good luck with the new TV.
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Old 05-23-2018, 04:05 PM   #31
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Thanks Sarah ~


I wanted to get the 24" but did invasion how the 32 might work as I've seen earlier posts. (she made sure of that)



SO the question is : with as light as the new TV/ gear is ... can the metal frame be totally removed?


or does add structural support to the adjacent cabinets?


Thanks ~
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:09 AM   #32
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The 32" just fits between the cabinet doors in our '03 Adventurer. Only part of the metal frame I left is the structural member going across at the roof. Certainly don't want to remove that. I screwed 2x2s to the sides of the cabinets. Cut a piece of plywood to fill the gap between the 2 cabinets and covered it with a matching vinyl.

I used the square metal tube and screwed it to the upper cross member and to a piece of 2x2 at the bottom running side to side. I attached the mount to the metal tube. So the TV will pull out, move or swivel side to side and move up and down. We wanted it to be able to come down to provide a better viewing angle. I use 2 luggage straps around the upper cross member to hold it up and in while traveling.
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:40 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_Bridge View Post
So the question is : with as light as the new TV/ gear is ... can the metal frame be totally removed?


or does add structural support to the adjacent cabinets?


Thanks ~
Did you read this thread?

It has detailed pictures of removing the heavy and useless metal frame for the CRT TV.
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Old 05-24-2018, 05:55 PM   #34
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Thanks Guys ~ More studying to do!
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