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Old 10-16-2008, 04:00 PM   #1
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I just happened to notice in the Goodyear Tire literature that they recommend adding 10 additional pounds psi to the tires for winter storage. Anyone doing this? I didn't do this last year when I winterized, my bad.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:00 PM   #2
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I just happened to notice in the Goodyear Tire literature that they recommend adding 10 additional pounds psi to the tires for winter storage. Anyone doing this? I didn't do this last year when I winterized, my bad.
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:14 PM   #3
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Indy Itasca:
I just happened to notice in the Goodyear Tire literature that they recommend adding 10 additional pounds psi to the tires for winter storage. Anyone doing this? I didn't do this last year when I winterized, my bad. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>The recommendation is valid with a caveat. You also have to remove weight off the tires.

What I recently heard from Michelin was that you should inflate your tires to the maximum rated pressure on the sidewall and remove all the weight off the tires.

When the vehicle is needed the pressure should be adjusted downward after the full weight of the vehicle is back on the ground.

That's it!
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:09 PM   #4
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This was a discussion I had recently with other people. a search on Tire Storage and other variations will yield many results.

One of those results is that for winter storage, 25% over inflation is recommended. It is also recommended to move the vehicle every couple months to avoid flat spots, which is also the reason for the over inflation. Personally I would bring the tires to proper inflation levels before moving, and if I were going to over inflate, I would let them cool to ambient temperatures before over inflating.

It is also stated that if on asphalt, blocking the tires (wood platform or other suitable material) is recommended. Asphalt is 40 degrees hotter than cement. Again, personally I would block the tires under all storage conditions because I could not be sure my neighbor did not spill a petroleum, or worse, product on the ground and the seepage would not get to my tires!

JMHO
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:15 PM   #5
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If you do store your motorhome on hard surfaces like asphalt or cement it is suggested that you use a plastic or other insulating or isolating sheet under the tires so the chemical in the tire compound does not interact with the surface. I bought and have used that clear home vinyl runner material for the purpose. You can cut it to fit and it's cheap.

Wayne M is right when he stated that the vehicle has to be moved occasionally because the ties will take a flat spot and with steel belts .. that's not a good thing for the case.

If the tires are inflated in wintry cold conditions the pressure should be adjusted downward when the tire warms up in warmer climates. You will want to make this pressure change in the morning when the tire is cold.
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Old 10-17-2008, 06:19 AM   #6
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A method to take the weight off the tires of an air suspension MH in long term storage was discussed at a recent Camp Freightliner session. Build a set of cribbing/blocks of treated 4X4's with a 3/4" plywood cap, 4X4's held together with threaded rod. Place them under the fully retracted jacks and as the air pressure bleeds off in the suspension, the weight of the coach will be taken off the suspension and the tires.
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Old 10-17-2008, 06:29 AM   #7
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To take the weight off the tires, after putting wood blocking under each one, why not just put your jacks down? Store on your jacks to relieve stress on the tires and the suspension.
put pads under your jacks also.
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:27 AM   #8
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What is considered long term storge ? Keep in mind that FLCC recommends that you never lift your wheels off the ground.
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:38 AM   #9
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Long term storage using the deployed jacks is an option which many people use. On mine and most others, the air bags deflate before the jacks deploy. The jacks then level and stabilize the unit. How much weight is removed from the suspension can be debated unless you manually extend the jacks to raise the MH off the suspension. In my situation, I drove the MH up on double stacked 2X10's before placing the cribbing under the jacks - approx 1/2" clearance for the airbags to deflate before contact. After the MH settled on the cribbing, I have a safe and comfortable clearance to do my "under the coach" chores such as chassis lube and corrosion control and treatment.
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:46 AM   #10
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When I had to store our coach before going fulltime I always jacked up the coach and placed blocks under the axles lifting the wheels off the ground about .25 inch front and rear. After, I let air out of the tires to prevent the sidewall from cracking especially in the cold/warm weather temp swings. Never had a problem.
Now I just head far south!
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:42 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Trek-Cyclist:
I let air out of the tires to prevent the sidewall from cracking especially in the cold/warm weather temp swings. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Keith Radford of Michelin Tire stated that in storage, weight should be removed off of the tire and to store the tire at maximum inflation (marked on the sidewall) of the tire inflated cold. This is the position of a representative from a major manufacturer of RV tires.

If the tire must be storred on the ground isolation should be provided between the tire and the ground and again storred at maximum pressure. When asked if storage on dirt or grass pertained, he offered that isolation wasn't required because it would seem that there isn't as much or any interaction between the chemicals in the tire and earth.

I don't know exactly why Keith would instruct suggest storing at maximum pressure. I believe it would pertain toward keeping the tire as round as possible and to assure the bead is not disturbed. The caveat here as well is to periodically rotate the tires at least by 90? if being stored long term with weight on the tire.

One thing that I was surprised to hear is that the tires should be covered in storage. I thought all along that tire covers benefited the makers of the covers. All RV tires have anti UV and anti ozone compounds. It was discussed that the covers will temper UV exposure however exposure to ozone was unavoidable. Cracking as not a direct result of inflation but chemical changes in the rubber.
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:08 AM   #12
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I also purchased the clear plastic runners to put under the tires. My Michelin's are 19.5 tires, so they get 95 lbs all around when stored and the jacks are extended just enough to take pressure off the tires. I never jack them up so far that the wheels are off the ground.

The rig has been winterized and will remain parked thru December, except for the twice monthly rides. On the other hand, about three days after New Years, we crank the Allegro up and head to Florida for January and February, then start heading back to the Volunteer State. No worries about long term cold weather storage.

Bob
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