What is your process for leveling after arriving at site?

[Fasttimes]

This weekend I had a bit of headache getting my TT to level how I wanted and I'm curious what are the steps you guys take when leveling?

The steps I use are to back in to desired position and then to jack up tongue and remove the weight distribution arms. I then lower the camper down to where I feel it's level before pushing the tow vehicle down. I then insert a 3' level into the center of the camper first side to side. If one side is higher than the other I break out the leveling blocks and drive up the opposite side till level. I then do front to back level. Once done I disconnect the tow vehicle, lower jack stands, and open slides.

But what I'm finding is that after I get done with all of that I'm not so much level anymore. It's very frustrating, but seems that after I open the slides the camper is now non-level the opposite than how it was when closed up.

Not sure what I'm doing wrong here. So what is your process? Do you see anything wrong with mine?

[BirchyBoy]

I think it may be the weight of the slide that’s affecting your level. Once you deploy it, the weight will shift further from center, You can either leave that side slightly high when setting up or be ok with a little off-level.

[SummitPond]

Not sure what kind of rig you have as it's not in your profile or signature. That often helps provide targeted assistance.

What kind of ground were you parked on? Was it hard-packed or "loose"? Did you use some sort of pad to distribute the weight under your stabilizers?

We purchased those little stick-on bubble levels for side-to-side and front-to-back level indication. The trick is ensuring you are really level before affixing them. We used a six-foot level across the A-frame as well as checking inside the TT both directions to set the bubble levels.

We try to get the trailer level as possible side-to-side (as indicated by the bubble level on the front of the TT) before unhitching; not so worried about front-to-back level at this point. That may mean laying some 2X6 boards under the appropriate wheels and either backing or pulling up onto them to get it side-to-side level as possible, but very often it can't be "perfect". If anything, a small amount of downward tilt to the side opposite the slide could be beneficial. Again, you want to check for ground firmness as the board may get pushed into the ground.

After we chock the wheels on both sides we disconnect the trailer (we also have WDH so it's a two-step process). Then we level front-to-back and deploy the stabilizers. I bought some inexpensive rigid plastic chopping boards from the dollar store that I use as a base, and either stack those orange "Lego" like blocks on them or 2X4 blocks for added height; I find the less I have to extend the stabilizer the better. I deploy the stabilizers on the slide side of the TT first, then those on the curb side. Only then does the DW extend the slide; I check for change in side-to-side level, and it is very minor if at all, but this is where having a slight downward slant to the side opposite the slide could help - if there is some torquing due to slide deployment it will help level the trailer out side-to-side.

On occasion I will stay connected to the TV, so the only step I skip is the decoupling. I still chock before deploying the stabilizers.

My unit does not have the scissor jacks; not sure what we have are called, but they are a single arm that lowers. Our previous trailer had scissor jacks and they were not as good stability-wise as the ones I have now.

Depending on how your fridge is oriented dictates which direction (front-to-back or side-to-side) is most critical to be level.

Good luck.

[Fasttimes]

My signature should say " 2015 27RBDS", shows for me anyways.


I use the lego-block things under all attachments to the ground, stabilizers and jack. In the case last weekend it was hard packed sand. The trailer I'm sure settles.



Wondering if the WDH arms on/off makes a difference? In my case, I want to be slightly downward on my curb-side kitchen slide that is under my awning. It has a tendency to let water run into the trailer if biased the other way. New seals and adjustments last summer at Lazy Days and it still does it so I just try to park down-ward so water runs away from the trailer.

[SummitPond]

Originally Posted by Fasttimes

My signature should say " 2015 27RBDS", shows for me anyways. ...

Mea culpa. I need glasses; it was there - just somehow overlooked it (I guess I was thinking there would be more).

I have had the Lego blocks sink into the ground, more on grass than hard-packed sand, but I use the cutting boards all times unless on asphalt/concrete. There's not that much surface area in contact with the ground on either side of the Lego block, thus the cutting board to spread things out.

Photo shows my setup; currently on gravel.

I wonder if the WDH bars can supply enough torque to tilt the TT frame to indicate level if it's not. I wouldn't think so as that wouldn't be good for the frame.

[Bigbird65]

I can see this large level with my drivers side rear view mirror mounted on the left front side of our 2250DS. If the camper is only slightly out of level side to side I will use the stabilizing jacks to tweak it in after un-hooking and leveling front to back.



Front to back level.



If it needs more leveling I will use these Andersen levelers to level while watching the big level in my rear view mirror. Of course this is done before un-hooking the tow vehicle. I have changed to using a pair of X-Chocks on the wheels instead of the home made green chocks.

[cruzbill]

To level a travel trailer: 1) Level side to side first, by backing onto blocks placed under the tires. 2 CHOCK YOUR WHEELS. 3) Jack up tongue and unhitch from tow vehicle. 4) level front to back using tongue jack. 5) Run stabilizer jacks down on all 4 corners. Do not try to level with corner jacks, you can use them to 'fine tune' your level, but they are not designed to carry much weight. 6) Pop a cold one, you're home.

[MainelyScott]

Originally Posted by cruzbill

To level a travel trailer: 1) Level side to side first, by backing onto blocks placed under the tires. 2 CHOCK YOUR WHEELS. 3) Jack up tongue and unhitch from tow vehicle. 4) level front to back using tongue jack. 5) Run stabilizer jacks down on all 4 corners. Do not try to level with corner jacks, you can use them to 'fine tune' your level, but they are not designed to carry much weight. 6) Pop a cold one, you're home.

Plus one on the above, I find that if I'm within 1/2 a bubble I can use the stabilizers to lift the low side (only a little) then use the other pair to firm it up. The refrigerator has always worked fine and I've never rolled out of bed! Micro Minnie 2108DS

[rk911]

jacks down and level then extend the rooms. just the reverse for leaving.

[SaltLife]

Pretty much the same way u level a 5er. Half a bubble? Sometimes I called it close enough...

[golden13]

When I bought my 5th wheel, I read exhaustively about leveling. After MANY blogs, forums, videos user manuals, and artlcles, the ONLY reason I could find for doing leveling at all was to ensure that the fridge would work OK. For that, it merely needs to be +/- 3 degrees in either direction. That's actually quite a bit. In addition, I also learned that the RV fridges made after about 2008 or so were made in such a way that they work fine even if the trailer isn't level.

So, for what it's worth, unless the trailer is so far off level that you have to walk uphill to get to the bedroom, you probably don't need to worry too much about it. I guess I've just been lucky that most sites I stop at seem to be fairly level to begin with. FYI, unless you have a level that's designed for RV use, it isn't likely to show something as small as 3 degrees.

[akeagle]

Our Class C came with a simple round bubble level on the galley counter. The common wisdom if the bubble is at least half inside the center circle you're good to go with the fridge.

If I'm not quite level enough I add one of our yellow plastic leveling blocks (about an inch thick) per half a bubble under the the low side back tires. Rarely need the blocks under the front tires but it might be necessary if the parking site is really wonky.

[jpellegr]

Hit the auto leveling button and crack open a beer. We got the Auto Leveling option with our 30RLSS best option purchase ever.

[jpellegr]

On a more serious note with our old TT we always left the side with slide outs a little higher this seemed to balance out when we extended the slides out.

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by cruzbill

To level a travel trailer: 1) Level side to side first, by backing onto blocks placed under the tires. 2 CHOCK YOUR WHEELS. 3) Jack up tongue and unhitch from tow vehicle. 4) level front to back using tongue jack. 5) Run stabilizer jacks down on all 4 corners. Do not try to level with corner jacks, you can use them to 'fine tune' your level, but they are not designed to carry much weight. 6) Pop a cold one, you're home.

Plus two! Exactly what I do.

[Charlie 2g]

Leveling the motorhome right side first then the left side I believe it prevents torquing the frame it seems that the slides slide in and out better

[Bigbird65]

Originally Posted by Charlie 2g

Leveling the motorhome right side first then the left side I believe it prevents torquing the frame it seems that the slides slide in and out better

Just curious, if you level the low side then why would the other side need leveling? I'm always willing to learn.

[Charlie 2g]

I can only speak for class a motorhome if I raise the low side with the jacks and not use the other side jacks, then the only support I have for that particular side is the suspension which will compress as the slide go out

[Bigbird65]

OK, thanks.

[SlipF18]

Those LEGO blocks will cut and sink into a sand, dirt or even gravel pad...put something under them. Also, can’t say enough about using a pair of X chocks...they make a world of difference.