Towing 2018 WINNEBAGO Micro Minnie 1808FBS with 2015 Acadia SL tow package installed

[jimmi]

Looking at 2018 WINNEBAGO Micro Minnie 1808FBS - will my 2015 Acadia SLE-2 with tow package installed have any issues towing this trailer ? Really don't want to trade vehicles. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance !

[Tucsontoy]

You would be pushing the limits but possible. Your GMC is rated for 5,200 pounds and the trailer is 7,000 pounds. When you say trailer package you most likely get heavier rear spring, a trailer receiver (hitch) and a wiring plug. The parts you will need do not come with it but can be negotiated when buying the trailer. You need a brake controller and make it a good one. You will also need a load equalization hitch. You do not want the tail wagging the dog. Drive safe and slow and it can be done.

[jimmi]

Thanks for the quick reply - The trailer is rated at 3560 dry weight ... did I miss something here ?

[Tucsontoy]

The trailer has two 3500 pound axles. Water and gear get heavy. If yours is AWD it is rated to 6,200 pound. I have driven dually one tons for most of my life and offen pushed the limits but I drive accordingly.

[jimmi]

Thanks for all your help - So I should get a different vehicle ? Or look for a different trailer ? New at this - we are retired and looking at taking this south for a few months in the winter and use it during the warmer months locally.

[Tucsontoy]

Worth a try. The dealer will be good help. They have the liability to hook you up safely when you buy. If they can not do it they will tell you.

[rancherwilli]

We are towing that trailer with our grand cherokee v6 and it works beautifully. The trailer is just over 3700 lbs dry. I don’t think you need a new vehicle.

[old_engineer]

I feel the trailer will be too large for your vehicle. The dry weight isn't useful for determining whether you can tow a vehicle as it is just the weight of the empty trailer without and options or other things like the battery. It is not uncommon for the loaded weight of a trailer to be around a 1000 lbs heavier if not more.



You also have to be concerned about the payload capacity of your Acadia. Payload is everything that will be loaded into the vehicle including the weight of the hitch head and trailer tongue. So that is the weight of all passengers, their personal effects, cargo, owner added options, hitch head and weight of trailer tongue. Page 9-9 of the Acadia owners manual discusses how to calculate capacity. The starting number should be on a sticker on your drivers side door. It will be the same one that has your tire pressure and size. It will be called something like maximum payload or say, "The combined weight of all occupants ...". From this number subtract the weight of all passengers/pets, personal items/luggage, other cargo and 75-100 lbs for the WDH hitch head. If you have children keep in mind they will get bigger. The result will be the payload capacity you have available to carry the trailer tongue. All of this also needs to be below or equal to your GVWR. Note: The payload value on sticker includes a full tank gas.



Trailer tongue weights typically run and are recommended to be in the 10% - 15% of trailer weight range. More typically they run 12% - 15% of trailer weight. When looking for trailers and determining trailer capacity I use 13% as a rule of thumb. To determine the potential maximum weight of the trailer take the available payload weight and divide by .13 (13%). This will tell you the maximum weight of the loaded trailer you can tow. I usually also calculate a 15% just to see worst case. While you can manage the tongue load to some degree with weight distribution in the trailer it can be a lot of work and introduce other handling issues. So IMO it is better to work with assumptions of 12% to 15% to get a maximum loaded trailer weight range and worst case.


Another thing you need to be concerned with is the GCWR. This is the maximum weight of the fully loaded tow vehicle and fully loaded trailer. The combined weight needs to be equal to or less than the value on your vehicle's sticker.



The limiting factor will always be from the lowest weight calculation. Based on what I could find you vehicle has a maximum tow rating of 5200 lbs. The maximum tongue weight is at least 600 lbs. There should be a sticker on the hitch receiver stating its capacities.



So some math. I'm using example numbers. You will have to use real ones of your own.



Payload capacity from sticker is 1100 lbs, two passengers at 350 lbs, cargo/luggage of 100 lbs, hitch head 100 lbs.

350 + 100 + 100 = 550 lbs

1100 - 550 = 550 lbs available to carry trailer tongue.



550 ÷ .13 = 4231 Maximum loaded trailer weight for 13% tongue weight550 ÷ .15 = 3667 Maximum loaded trailer weight for 15% tongue weight



So in this scenario even though receiver can handle the tongue weight your available payload is limiting the trailer weight. These are actually pretty low based on the amount of trailer cargo. If you could manage an 10% or 11% you have more trailer cargo capacity but would be limited by the 5200 lbs vehicle limit.


Note I still haven't done the GVWR and GCWR because I don't know GM products well enough to guess at representative numbers. Again this is all in your owners manual too.



As to your question about a different tow vehicle I would look at an F-150 with the 3.5L Ecoboost or 5.0L V8 or other brand equivalents. I tow a 2106FBS with a 2015 F-150 XLT Supercab 2.7L Ecoboost. It is just the wife and myself. The loaded trailer is under 5K lbs and we don't expect to ever exceed 5.5K lbs. This is about the practical limit for our truck and about under the mathematical limit. The things to watch for in the truck is the payload capacity. You will typically have more payload in trucks with less options. Look at trucks on the lot they will all list the maximum payload. Don't trust the car dealer as most know little about towing. The same goes for RV dealers who just want to move an RV. You can tow just about anything but that doesn't mean it is being done safely.

[SarahW]

Originally Posted by Tucsontoy

Worth a try. The dealer will be good help. They have the liability to hook you up safely when you buy. If they can not do it they will tell you.

I hate to disagree, but I think RV salesmen will tell a customer anything to sell. We have visited three large RV dealerships in the past couple of weeks and at each one, the "sales"person didn't know squat about the product they were selling.

Be an informed consumer and DO YOUR HOMEWORK before shopping. It will save you major headaches in the long run.

[jimmi]

Thanks for all the information - a lot to look at ! This will be helpful !

[blueridge-fl]

Our dealer told me that my Tundra could tow any 5th wheel they had on the lot. Kind of says it all about dealerships. I also agree with old engineer. You either need a different TV or a lighter trailer. You might want to look at the Minnie Drops.

[vonheise]

I have been towing my 3k micro Minnie 1706FB for over a year with a Honda Ridgeline RTL E rated at 5k. I did have to put a sway leveler hitch on it after pulling it on windy curvy mountain roads, however it tows great. I did drop down from 70 plus mph to 65 and it improved gas mileage quite a bit and cut down on the down shifting on longer hills.
I weighed the MM one time after the first use and it was 3900 lbs, but I have added some weight since so suspect it to be around 4100 lbs but it still tows great. Some say that tow weights are exaggerated on trucks, but I find it to be the opposite on the Ridgeline. I have little doubt it would safely pull over the rated capacity with the brakes set properly.

[MainelyScott]

One other thing to consider, if you're doing long distances, a heavier more comfortable vehicle that pulls the trailer more easily is just plain better for the driver. When I first got my 2108DS I had a 2016 Chevy Colorado, Z7i with tow package, it towed the trailer okay and all the numbers were well within the specifications. As we started planning a longer trip though (from Maine to Florida) I started to think about driver comfort, I found a nice used 2016 Tahoe, and traded for it. The bigger vehicle just pulls the trailer more easily, the transmission doesn't shift anywhere near as often as the V6 it the Colorado did. Gas mileage is similar, handling is better, and I assume that it is much easier on the tow vehicle. So, while the Acadia may well pull the trailer okay, if you're traveling a lot, driver comfort and vehicle ability to tow easily are very important too.

[jlb27537]

Originally Posted by jimmi

Thanks for all your help - So I should get a different vehicle ? Or look for a different trailer ? New at this - we are retired and looking at taking this south for a few months in the winter and use it during the warmer months locally.

I am going to chime in here, been towing things for 50+ years. We (married for 50+ years) do the north in the summer, south in the winter thing since we retired in '96. We are seeing a change in the RV parks we visit. Folks in Suv's towing tiny trailers. Next year they have moved up to a larger TT and a 1500 series truck. Then they either get a gas M/H and a car they can flat tow, or get serious about the north/south thing and buy a large 5th, a pusher, or a place down south.

We are presently in Colorado. 7700' in our campground. All this tow ratings you talk about is at sea level. A natural asperated engine will loose 3.5% per 1000' in elevation. So 7700' x 3.5% is about 25% give or take. Now that you have gotten to the top of Monarch Pass, 11,000'+ now you got to get back down. You got a gas engine vehicle, no exhaust brake, relying on gravity to not work, and the fun begains.

Just retiring, a thought, go out to a RV Park and talk to some folks. Forget the RV shows, the RV dealerships, the car dealerships, they have one propose in life, to sell you something.

Get on a forum that deals with actually traveling in a RV. Not on a Mfg forum. Escapees Rv Club, Irv2, and others.

Two days ago, on the way to the store, saw a small Chevy Suv towing a single axle Airstream run into the back of a PU in town, probably 20mph accident. They towed the Chevy off and the PU drove away. Heck of a way to end a vacation.

The take away is this, a couple of things, going south in a 18' trailer for the winter is NUTS. One season, either north or south, it will be sold, next tow vehicle, the suv's of today have the same HP that my Ford 350 DRW diesel truck had in 2001. I towed a 16,000lb 5th with that truck and now tow a 14,000lb 5th with a 350hp/800tq Ram DRW truck. Even it pulls down on those out west hills.

Happy shopping and welcome to the lifestyle.

[vonheise]

Originally Posted by MainelyScott

One other thing to consider, if you're doing long distances, a heavier more comfortable vehicle that pulls the trailer more easily is just plain better for the driver. When I first got my 2108DS I had a 2016 Chevy Colorado, Z7i with tow package, it towed the trailer okay and all the numbers were well within the specifications. As we started planning a longer trip though (from Maine to Florida) I started to think about driver comfort, I found a nice used 2016 Tahoe, and traded for it. The bigger vehicle just pulls the trailer more easily, the transmission doesn't shift anywhere near as often as the V6 it the Colorado did. Gas mileage is similar, handling is better, and I assume that it is much easier on the tow vehicle. So, while the Acadia may well pull the trailer okay, if you're traveling a lot, driver comfort and vehicle ability to tow easily are very important too.

I can't disagree that bigger is better to a point. I have been towing campers since age 16 and I am now 72. I have pulled campers with a '57 Dodge with air bags and it pulled the 16' Shasta with no effort. Once married with kids, we changed to tent camping for their experience and to save money. When they were grown we went to a 32' fifth wheel pulled by a Ram 3500 5.9 Cummins. I loved it for towing the fifth wheel, but hated driving and parking the monster log wagon when not towing and my wife didn't like any of it, truck or camper. Last spring I "retired" from camping after totaling the Ram which had a huge Lance bed camper at that point. I walked away with seat belt burns only. I bought the Ridgeline RTL E for comfort, a good around town vehicle, and the lane keeping and adaptive cruise control. In other words I wanted a luxury car which looked like a pickup. Then the itch came back so we got the 1706FB. It wasn't planned that way, and we don't make a lot of trips, as we have been to every state except 7 in the NE. I made a 30 day trip to Key West from west Tennessee so I put a few miles on it and had no complaints once I decided that 65 mph was a better towing speed than 75. Also, the mountains are not too high in Florida, however ran into some going and returning. The Ram never slowed down for anything, even the Rocky mountains, but now I let the Ridgeline slow a bit on hills and will even follow an 18 wheeler on really steep ones. By changing my driving habits, the Ridgeline is plenty for what we do now, however I wouldn't hesitate to go to Alaska again with it. One other note, the Ridgeline was the only fully equipped "luxury" truck when I bought it as I shopped them all. This year there are more, and larger, and by next year there will be more, so I would not rule out going bigger next year, however then I would want a bigger camper with a slide.

[LarryW]

Rancher, the Grand Cherokee isn’t a front wheel drive Acadia. I’d consider it with a GC but this is why I’m still in a Tahoe and not a Traverse.

[MainelyScott]

Originally Posted by vonheise

I can't disagree that bigger is better to a point. I have been towing campers since age 16 and I am now 72. I have pulled campers with a '57 Dodge with air bags and it pulled the 16' Shasta with no effort. Once married with kids, we changed to tent camping for their experience and to save money. When they were grown we went to a 32' fifth wheel pulled by a Ram 3500 5.9 Cummins. I loved it for towing the fifth wheel, but hated driving and parking the monster log wagon when not towing and my wife didn't like any of it, truck or camper. Last spring I "retired" from camping after totaling the Ram which had a huge Lance bed camper at that point. I walked away with seat belt burns only. I bought the Ridgeline RTL E for comfort, a good around town vehicle, and the lane keeping and adaptive cruise control. In other words I wanted a luxury car which looked like a pickup. Then the itch came back so we got the 1706FB. It wasn't planned that way, and we don't make a lot of trips, as we have been to every state except 7 in the NE. I made a 30 day trip to Key West from west Tennessee so I put a few miles on it and had no complaints once I decided that 65 mph was a better towing speed than 75. Also, the mountains are not too high in Florida, however ran into some going and returning. The Ram never slowed down for anything, even the Rocky mountains, but now I let the Ridgeline slow a bit on hills and will even follow an 18 wheeler on really steep ones. By changing my driving habits, the Ridgeline is plenty for what we do now, however I wouldn't hesitate to go to Alaska again with it. One other note, the Ridgeline was the only fully equipped "luxury" truck when I bought it as I shopped them all. This year there are more, and larger, and by next year there will be more, so I would not rule out going bigger next year, however then I would want a bigger camper with a slide.

I agree. after checking the specifications I found that the Tahoe is just 6 inches wider and about 8 inches shorter than the Colorado was. Yes, it feels bigger but the reality is that it hasn't been any more difficult to get around town with. Having said that yes some tow vehicles are really to big to drive to the mall and park easily.

[W 69947]

Old_eng
Thanks for complete run down on trailer weight. This is the first time someone has gone into detail that is easy to understand.
I have a 1706 fb that has dry weight of 2900lbs and after all add on's, two batteries and wd hitch and full tank of water, and all the stuff my roommate of 55 years can load I am within limits. I just purge her stuff once a year that we have not used. Good way to catch h__l.
My little f150 club cab with 2.7 eco boost 6 cyl gets ave 14.9 mpg at 64 mph. That is sweet spot for best mileage.

[LarryW]

“My little f150 club cab with 2.7 eco boost 6 cyl gets ave 14.9 mpg at 64 mph. That is sweet spot for best mileage.”

W, I’m sure that is the sweet spot for mileage but irs just one mile per hour below the maximum allowed speed for many trailer tires...the less expensive ones.

[golithii]

Ford exploder, v6 with twin turbos tows it just fine. I will be adding a sway control hitch to make it even better.