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Old 08-08-2018, 10:09 PM   #1
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No power from Battery

I am at wits ends trying to troubleshoot why I have no power from my fully charged battery. When I am on shore power everything works fine.

There are no fuses blown in the fuse box, the battery wires are attached correctly, the power jack that was installed works off the battery, the kill switch is good on both sides coming in and out.

Could there be A fuse somewhere else that I can’t find? Please help
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:14 AM   #2
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There may be a 50 or 60 amp circuit breaker near the battery mounted on the frame in the cable run between the WFCO box with the DC fuses and converter/charger, if so it will have a small black reset button that will have popped out if it tripped. It will have a black or red protective plastic weatherproofing cover over it.

There are also a couple of large fuses in the WFCO box that will open if the battery got connected with reverse polarity.
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:21 AM   #3
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Explain a little more what you mean. You say the battery is fully charged. What is the battery voltage?

The battery sends it's power to the 12 volt panel. Is it possible that the wires on the 12 volt panel are loose?

I say this because that was what was wrong with my rig. The negative connection on the 12 volt panel that fed and received power from the battery was so loose I could just pull the wire out from under the screw terminal.
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:50 PM   #4
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No power from Battery to trailer

The battery charge is good/excellent really., and unfortunately, the cables themselves are tight and they are tight on the posts.

Also the converter kicks on right away when we tested it. I forgot to mention that in my first post.

If you have anything more you think of please let me know. It’s really perplexing. I keep thinking I’m missing a blown fuse somewhere but we’ve looked all over and can’t see anything.

Thanks for your reply,
Karen
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Old 08-09-2018, 03:31 PM   #5
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Most roof a/c units are a self contained unit........if your lucky to find someone who can install a port for charging, you will be confronted with what type Freon is needed.......R-22 is depleting the ozone an is very hard to find. Replacements to R-22 are R410A,R404A,R501A are environment friendly and is it compatible with your existing unit.
You might have to consider the bottom line.......
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Old 08-11-2018, 05:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justme161 View Post
The battery charge is good/excellent really., and unfortunately, the cables themselves are tight and they are tight on the posts.

Also the converter kicks on right away when we tested it. I forgot to mention that in my first post.

If you have anything more you think of please let me know. It’s really perplexing. I keep thinking I’m missing a blown fuse somewhere but we’ve looked all over and can’t see anything.

Thanks for your reply,
Karen
It would be more helpful if you provided the voltage details, instead of the vague (The battery charge is good/excellent really).

Also you didn't respond to the suggestion given earlier "The battery sends it's power to the 12 volt panel. Is it possible that the wires on the 12 volt panel are loose?"
Have you checked your battery disconnect switch. This is the switch used to disconnect all 12V from the RV when you are going to put the RV in storage for a few weeks to months.
It would also be helpful if you posted the specific model of your Winnebago.
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Old 08-11-2018, 07:42 AM   #7
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Have you measured the voltage where the battery cables feed the converter?

Have you opened up junction box to verify all of its connections are good?

Did you remove the reverse polarity fuses and check them with an ohm meter?

Frequently there will be a circuit breaker mounted to the frame near the junction box under the trailer. I haven't looked for it on our current trailer but on our old one it was in a rubber boot to keep water out. Some of these breakers are self resetting some aren't. I would look for it and measure each side to see if it is tripped. I would also open up the junction box to verify all of the wiring is good.

I second providing the actual voltages and location being read on the meter.
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Old 08-11-2018, 09:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
There may be a 50 or 60 amp circuit breaker near the battery mounted on the frame in the cable run between the WFCO box with the DC fuses and converter/charger, if so it will have a small black reset button that will have popped out if it tripped. It will have a black or red protective plastic weatherproofing cover over it.

There are also a couple of large fuses in the WFCO box that will open if the battery got connected with reverse polarity.
Thanks I’ll go back under and see if I can find anything
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Old 08-11-2018, 03:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justme161 View Post
I am at wits ends trying to troubleshoot why I have no power from my fully charged battery. When I am on shore power everything works fine.

There are no fuses blown in the fuse box, the battery wires are attached correctly, the power jack that was installed works off the battery, the kill switch is good on both sides coming in and out.

Could there be A fuse somewhere else that I can’t find? Please help

What year and model is your rig?

By chance is the battery disconnect switch operated??
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Old 08-11-2018, 06:26 PM   #10
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My motor home had a blown fuse behind the regular circuit board with multi fuses.
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Old 08-11-2018, 06:39 PM   #11
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Yes I pulled out the front of the fuse box and looked around for other fuses but all I could find I could test from the front. Thank you for your suggestion. Karen
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Old 08-11-2018, 06:53 PM   #12
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Thanks for your suggestions. Model is 2018 Winnie minnie 2500 FL. When I first posted the battery was 12.3 but now after sitting idle for 6 days with no drain on it (using shore power) It reads 11.7 i think the battery is not charging.
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justme161 View Post
Thanks for your suggestions. Model is 2018 Winnie minnie 2500 FL. When I first posted the battery was 12.3 but now after sitting idle for 6 days with no drain on it (using shore power) It reads 11.7 i think the battery is not charging.
Thank you for posting the battery voltage. Your initial reading of 12.3V indicates your battery was already discharged 25% (75% full), not a fully charged battery.



Yes since you are on shore power and after 6 days definitely, your battery is not charging. Additionally, your battery power going from 12.3V to 11.7V in 6 days, indicates there is a load on the battery which should not be there. Perhaps a light was left on in a storage compartment.


Back to the battery charging issue. When on shore power your converter should be putting out about 13.4V (+-2V). If not, either the converter is not getting shore power, there should be a 120V AC circuit breaker in your power panel labeled 'converter'. Converters are usually mounted close to the power panel and the 12V fuse panel. Others with a View may be able to tell exactly where the converter is located.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justme161 View Post
Thanks for your suggestions. Model is 2018 Winnie minnie 2500 FL. When I first posted the battery was 12.3 but now after sitting idle for 6 days with no drain on it (using shore power) It reads 11.7 i think the battery is not charging.

Section 6-9 of your operators manual states to leave the COACH BATT switch on at all times. You may have it on, Now we have a problem. What voltage are you reading at the inverter DC cable connections? (You must get a charge on your battery before it drops below 9V or it may get damaged.)
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Old 08-12-2018, 11:36 AM   #15
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What model of converter do you have in your trailer?



If you disconnect the battery and plug-in to shore power is the 12V system working?



If the trailer is plugged in the battery should be charging. A heavily discharged battery can cause the fuse in the converter charge circuit to blow so it is worth double checking it out of circuit with an ohm meter.
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:19 PM   #16
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Thank you all for your suggestions. I’m on hold with this for a while. I slipped on some steps and am out of commission right now.

I’ll catch up on the tests and log back on as soon as possible.
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:56 PM   #17
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Thank you all for your suggestions. I’m on hold with this for a while. I slipped on some steps and am out of commission right now.

I’ll catch up on the tests and log back on as soon as possible.
Wishing you an easy recovery.
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:56 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Justme161 View Post
Thank you all for your suggestions. I’m on hold with this for a while. I slipped on some steps and am out of commission right now.

I’ll catch up on the tests and log back on as soon as possible.

So sorry to hear this. I hope the injuries are not too extensive. What is your expected recovery time? My prayers go out for you.
Rick
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:45 PM   #19
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So I have a 30rlss, and have no power coming from the battery and it says fully charged when I trickled it. When I plug into shore power it keeps tripping my house circut breakers( it never did that before). I am able to take the slides out but not the move the electric stablizers. I replaced the fuse on the tounge and I was able to raise the trailer. I checked all the fuses inside the trailer and they are all good. Now I am stummped that I have no power from the battery and keeps tripping my house. Im missing something and thanks in advance .
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Old 08-19-2018, 05:57 AM   #20
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So I have a 30rlss, and have no power coming from the battery and it says fully charged when I trickled it. When I plug into shore power it keeps tripping my house circut breakers( it never did that before). I am able to take the slides out but not the move the electric stablizers. I replaced the fuse on the tounge and I was able to raise the trailer. I checked all the fuses inside the trailer and they are all good. Now I am stummped that I have no power from the battery and keeps tripping my house. Im missing something and thanks in advance .
You will get more replies by starting a new topic. Many people don't bother to read old topics. They figure the problem was resolved and now people are just talking about stuff.

Also add more specific details, such as which circuit breakers are tripping, what is the amperage rating of the CB's, and were you running the air conditioner when the c/b tripped. Is the problem solved by replacing the fuse on the tongue a 3rd problem that you fixed? Was that problem that the electric jack on the front wasn't working?
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