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Old 03-24-2013, 10:23 AM   #1
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Need some help identifying 6 pin trailer connection wiring

Hi all

I am about to have my newly purchased Honda CRV set up for towing behind my 2002 Journey.
Looking at the wiring diagram and the 6 pin connection I see that that the top two terminals I can identify as the R & L turn, the center apperars to be neutral. The bottom three my eyesight fails me.
Can anyone straighten me out.
I am going to test the connections with a tester to be sure they are still the same as Winnebago installed it and take the diagram with me when my car is wired.

thanks
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:27 AM   #2
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Hope this helps. As you schroll down all the info is there.

http://http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyorancher View Post
Hope this helps. As you schroll down all the info is there.

http://http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
Corrected link: http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:10 AM   #4
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Thanks, just what I needed.
Now, if I have them run a wire from the center pole, 12V battery, directly to the CRV battery it will keep the CRV's battery charged and no worries about pulling the fuse, am I correct? Also what size fuse should be installed?

thanks Ron
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:12 PM   #5
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Itasca Horizon Trailer Light Connections

Here is a pic (if it attaches) of the connector on my Itasca, which is likely the same as your Journey, although mine is a couple of years older. The Itasca Horizon has separate Turn Signal and Brake lights. If your towed vehicle also has separate brake/turn signal lights, this eliminates the need for a converter.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:25 PM   #6
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Thanks GSF, Looks identical. I'll print it out.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:28 PM   #7
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Are you sure #2 isn't a ground? The towed vehicle should always be grounded back to the towing vehicle through the connector; otherwise, it has to depend on grounding through the hitch arrangement, and that's not reliable.

Rusty
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:38 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by RustyJC View Post
Are you sure #2 isn't a ground? The towed vehicle should always be grounded back to the towing vehicle through the connector; otherwise, it has to depend on grounding through the hitch arrangement, and that's not reliable.

Rusty
Actually, I intend to connect a ground on that pin on the MH. I've already done it on the car. I couldn't understand why the MH wasn't already wired that way.

I'm also going to disconnect the backup lights from the center pin and run a hot wire through that one to keep the toad battery charged if needed.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCtime View Post
Thanks, just what I needed.
Now, if I have them run a wire from the center pole, 12V battery, directly to the CRV battery it will keep the CRV's battery charged and no worries about pulling the fuse, am I correct? Also what size fuse should be installed?

thanks Ron
I installed a 10 amp fuse at the toad battery.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:43 PM   #10
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Rusty, I agree Pin 2 should be ground. At least it has been in every one that I have hooked up.
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfs1943 View Post
Here is a pic (if it attaches) of the connector on my Itasca, which is likely the same as your Journey, although mine is a couple of years older. The Itasca Horizon has separate Turn Signal and Brake lights. If your towed vehicle also has separate brake/turn signal lights, this eliminates the need for a converter.

Well gfs1943,
Not exactly. You see, our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT does not have SEPERATE turn signals and brake lights. They are the same filament. So, one has to be careful of advisement here. So many "assume" that things are the same when, they get changed back and forth, from year/model to year/model.

RCtime,
While the pin you choose to use for a "charge wire" from your coach is the middle one in the pic above, you should use no less than 10-12GA wire, on both sides for that purpose. The primary reason is, you're trying to send a full 12V or more, hopefully, for quite a distance and, you want the least amount of voltage drop possible for that long of a run and, going through all the fittings you plan on. You have to do it within reason too. That is, you can't use 4-6GA wires 'cause they're simply way to big but, you'd certainly have no voltage loss.

I did all the wiring on our Itasca to 2011 Honda CRV and, it was a piece of cake. I also used the stock tail light bulbs for signalling back there. I'm not a fan of drilling the housings and adding bulbs. It's a personal thing. You just have to determine how you want the CRV to look when you're sending signals from the coach when towing it. I prefer it to look just like someones driving it. Amber turn signals, third brake light and all. It works flawless. Below is a schematic I drew up on how I did things. Your choice. Take care and good luck.
Scott

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Old 03-24-2013, 03:59 PM   #12
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Thanks Scott. I asked and you sent me your diagrams, and they were immensely helpful to me when I was wiring my 2006 CRV. My 2000 Itasca has separate turn signal and brake lights -- turn signals are in a separate fitting with amber lens. I bought a converter, but don't need it.

The OP may or may not have separate turn & brake lights, but I suspect he does. The '02 Journey/Horizon is pretty much the same as my '00. You got the 'upgrade' model.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:18 PM   #13
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Thanks Scott and GFS and everyone

I am going to be using diodes in my installation.. The Tech. that I have been assigned has done many so he should be aware and now I am knowledgable thanks to all of you guys.
I am having the installation done at camping World, La Mirada. They also did the set up on my 2004 Honda CRV that I just sold and it was great.
I have all the gear so its just a baseplate and wiring installation.
I will arrive with my shiny new 2013 crv, all my information and verified wiring of my trailer plug.
They said if it isnt right to bring it back and the motorhome and they will make it right.
They also beat any local rv installers by $200.00
I quit being a do it yourself guy a few years back, just dont bend in the right spots any more, but admire you Scott for all you have done on your rig.
Being a retired Fire guy myself it sure gets to me some times when I pass on projects I know I could do if I was just a bit younger.
Take care
Ron
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:17 PM   #14
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Ron,
Don't feel bad about not doing as much of the maintenance/installation etc. stuff as you used to. It's getting to me too. I used to "bend" a lot better than I do now. I just force myself to continue to do what I can. I'll be in the same boat soon enough. I'll probably kick myself when I finally do, saying "why didn't I do this sooner"? Anyway, hope CW gets it all done right. I've not heard too much good about CW for a while.
Scott
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #15
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Wiring

RCtime, below is the drawing of the original wiring on your coach. Note two things, the plug is shown upside down and the center pin is tied to the backup lights. +12 was not wired to the 6 pin connector.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:56 PM   #16
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RCtime,
I would highly recommend that you also install a "Toad-Charge" from LSL Products. You can over charge your batteries, or drain either your coach batteries or car battery if you just connect your CRV as you propose. See the following discussion:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/no-mo...ml#post1496916
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:11 PM   #17
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Here is a simple diagram to follow.

Drf4Film ----- Richard
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:37 AM   #18
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RCtime,
I would highly recommend that you also install a "Toad-Charge" from LSL Products. You can over charge your batteries, or drain either your coach batteries or car battery if you just connect your CRV as you propose. See the following discussion:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/no-mo...ml#post1496916
Always wonder what is in that little "Toad-Charge" LSL box. When I drive my toad down the road it has a voltage regulator. It controls when the charge will be cut off. Every one drives their vehicle to work day after day. They don't have a "Toad-Charge" between their alternator and battery. They have a voltage regulator. When I am towing my toad the voltage regulator on MH determines the amount of charge. I don't think there is one TT on the road that uses that "Toad-Charge" when they run their charge line back to charge their TT battery. Now if my voltage regulator is bad I suppose the "Toad-Charge" would protect my battery from over charge. If I was extremely concerned I may add a $1 diode in the charge line in case the relay wasn't operating in my MH that controls that charge line. I do fuse that charge line at 10 amps. I have never seen more than 5 amps. So I keep asking Why should I use a "Toad-Charge"? Seems like just over kill. I'd still like to know exactly what is in that magic LSL box. I may learn something.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:06 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by wyorancher View Post
Always wonder what is in that little "Toad-Charge" LSL box. When I drive my toad down the road it has a voltage regulator. It controls when the charge will be cut off. Every one drives their vehicle to work day after day. They don't have a "Toad-Charge" between their alternator and battery. They have a voltage regulator. When I am towing my toad the voltage regulator on MH determines the amount of charge. I don't think there is one TT on the road that uses that "Toad-Charge" when they run their charge line back to charge their TT battery. Now if my voltage regulator is bad I suppose the "Toad-Charge" would protect my battery from over charge. If I was extremely concerned I may add a $1 diode in the charge line in case the relay wasn't operating in my MH that controls that charge line. I do fuse that charge line at 10 amps. I have never seen more than 5 amps. So I keep asking Why should I use a "Toad-Charge"? Seems like just over kill. I'd still like to know exactly what is in that magic LSL box. I may learn something.
wyorancher,
My thoughts exactly! I've only wired "charge lines" to a dozen or more toads over the years and have NEVER had an "over charge condition". Yes, there's long distances, resistance, connections, and more between the alternator of the coach and the toads battery but, the amount of voltage/amperage that ends up at the positive post of the toads battery, I've found, through multiple jobs, has never been more than real close to 13.2-13.5V. Don't have an amperage gauge to install but, I have checked those toad batteries multiple times, at various stops on trips, to see if there's evidence of any improper charging situations.

Again, never seen warm or hot batteries, no bubbling, no hot cables, and the toads have always started right up. Now, I'm not and expert, never have been, never will be, so, if someone wants to install "protective" devices in their toads etc. then, have at it. It's your vehicle.
Scott
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:56 PM   #20
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Fire Up,
I agree with what you are saying. As I understand it, the problem begins when one of the batteries begin to fail. If the toad battery begins to fail, the motorhome battery (and alternator) can over charge the chassis batteries. If the chassis batteries fail, you can drain the toad battery (and alternator). Also, as stated in the other string if there are time when you have both the motor home and toad running (or still connected) the Toad-Charge isolates (with diodes) the batteries from one another. This would prevent the toad battery from going dead if the chassis batteries failed. The Toad-Charge only provides the charge needed to the toad, not just the charge being sent by the alternator to all three batteries.
I agree with you if all the batteries are working, then there normally is not any problem. The Toad-Charge is just another level of "insurance" that provides needed power to the toad but prevents the toad battery from being "back feeding" to the chassis batteries.
I have not stated this very well but I hope it helps to clarify some of the Toad-Battery features. I'm just a user; not an owner or investor in LSL Products.
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