Possible switch to a 12vdc fridge

youracman · 02-09-2019, 10:16 PM

My 12 year old Norcold (N611) is still working satisfactorily (for an absorption unit, that is) however; I believe it is more than likely nearing the end of its life. I would rather have its funeral service here at home than say ….. in the middle of Montana, so I am considering replacing it before the coming camping season with a 12vdc (mechanical refrigeration) unit that draws 3.2 amps at 12vdc per the specs on it (Norcold DE-0061 AC/DC....... $1360 from West Marine.)

I believe I should be able to overnight at a Walmart on my 2 deep cycle coach batteries and stay within the 50 percent discharge criteria, but how much solar do you think I would likely need for longer (boon docking) periods? (BTW-users report that this unit has a near 100 percent [daytime] duty cycle in the hot summer months.) I'm thinking that 200 watts (non-tilting) on the roof should do it (just for the fridge.) Too optimistic? What say you?

I have "0" solar experience, so thanks in advance. ed s

**creativepart** · 02-09-2019, 10:40 PM

There are too many variables when dealing with solar to accurately answer your question. Solar is great, but it’s output depends on time of year, time of day, position of your RV and things that block the sun... like trees.

Get as many watts as you can afford and as big a battery bank as you can fit in your RV. OR, take a guess and if it’s usually not enough get some more of each.

Teamfoxy · 02-10-2019, 06:46 AM

Why would you think a 12 yr old fridge was at the end of its useful life? We had one that was over 20 and our current one is 14. I had to replace the burner in both of them, but that is neither difficult nor expensive.
You qualify your statement, saying it works well (for an absorbtion unit). I find that our fridge works fine if you perform the maintenance outline in the manual. Keep the flue clean and the burner clean and operating properly.

If I were going to go electric, I would go with a residential fridge and install the appropriate inverter along with batteries and charging system to support it. I am sure that you would be happier with that than a 12V fridge.

**creativepart** · 02-10-2019, 09:10 AM

We have a large residential fridge and love it (plus more batteries, solar panels and an inverter), but I hear great things about 12v compressor fridges. So, don’t sell them short.

ddaudelin · 02-10-2019, 09:17 AM

We had the Norcold DE-0061 AC/DC compressor refrigerator in our 2018 View 24D and it was one of the top reasons that we sold that unit. The refrigerator ran 24 hours a day and was loud, mostly considering that it was right at our feet when sleeping on the Murphy bed. The compressor would run for 5 minutes and then shut off for 2 minutes and then repeat (forever). We had it in the shop 3 times. The first two times because it didn't cool properly. Eventually they told us that the noise was "just the way it was" and we'd have to live with it. WRONG!

We love the absorption units due to how quiet they are and how reliable they have proven in all the campers and RV's that have been built for decades. The only issue we had in the past with them was the requirement of being level. But in our new Vista 29VE, we have hydraulic jacks so we never worry about being level.

Check the View/Navion forums to see all the problems that people have had / are having with this unit.

AJMike · 02-10-2019, 11:11 AM

We have the Norcold DC0061 (which I assume is the same as or almost the same as the DE0061) and I would not care to trade it for one of the absorption units. This is our 5th RV and our first DC compressor model and it works wonderfully. I am not suggesting it is any better than a house fridge, but it is pretty much just as good, and much larger than our old absorption units.

We never hear it, it cools down very quickly, it keeps our food cold and our freezer near zero and although I initially missed not having a propane setting I no longer do. We did have a bad thermistor in it, and had temperature stabilization issues with the freezer cycling between -6 and +36 F, but once that was replaced (under warranty) it has worked perfectly.

Mrmedia · 02-10-2019, 12:09 PM

We like our 2002 Original Norcold refrigerator. Especially since it operates on both ac and propane.
At 17 years old, I'd still have it repaired. Good luck with your decision.

BobC · 02-10-2019, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrmedia

We like our 2002 Original Norcold refrigerator. Especially since it operates on both ac and propane.
At 17 years old, I'd still have it repaired. Good luck with your decision.

Me, too. I'm on my third RV with a Norcold LPG/120v unit. Two used and one new. So far, no problems in about 12 years. My current one is a 2002 model.

I was, wondering, however, how does the 12v power consumption of a 12v unit compare with a residential unit running off an inverter? If the 12v is less efficient and runs more often, they may be closer in consumption than one would expect. The efficiency of the converter is a factor as well.

cptdzl · 02-17-2019, 07:02 PM

I went the 12 volt conversion route and its performing as advertised. check out
https://jc-refrigeration.com/products/
advantages being it uses the current box, No remodeling needed, pull yours remove absorption unit and install the 12 HVAC unit, they have a video at that link that will show you most everything you'll need to know before hand. I reasoned by going 12v I'd eliminate any inverter inefficiencies by going directly to 12v. I already had 2/100 watt panels to maintain my batteries while in the storage yard and that was enough to maintain batteries and run a dometic CF40 running as a freezer in the basement. I added another 2/100 watt panels and they keep my 4-6 volt golf carts batteries charged up. For overnights I think 200 watts would run either refrig you choose, but I would shy away from a residential for you application.