new, heavier duty SumoSprings SSR-338-54 for Sprinter 3500's?

[stevepsd]

I am getting ready to order SumoSprings for my swaying '19 View 24J and came across a heavier-duty rear spring - it is part # SSR-338-54.


Specs are: 1400lbs capacity at 50% compression vs the 'standard' SSR-338-47 which gives 900lbs at 50% compression.


Has anyone tried the new spring? I wonder if this new spring rating would be to harsh in everyday driving?



-steve

[Old Crows]

Originally Posted by stevepsd

I am getting ready to order SumoSprings for my swaying '19 View 24J and came across a heavier-duty rear spring - it is part # SSR-338-54.


Specs are: 1400lbs capacity at 50% compression vs the 'standard' SSR-338-47 which gives 900lbs at 50% compression.


Has anyone tried the new spring? I wonder if this new spring rating would be to harsh in everyday driving?



-steve

Ok, so you have some miles on her.... good. I suggest gradualism. Sumos on the rear: Sumos on the front; Koni FSD's rear; OEM struts on front, OEM anti-roll bar on the rear (it's plenty good and a heavier one causes other issues).

I have SSR-338-47s on the rear of a '14 View Profile 24G. They are rated 900lbs at 50% compression. My friend wanted to improve the handling on his 18 View and ran into the same quandary. I called Super Springs and talked with the tech. Here's the answer: First, if you are going to tow a trailer that has a high tongue weight & use a hefty hitch, drawbar & sway control, consider the '54s'. (The weight is cantilevered off the end of the View, if you will, and has more effect.) If you are not going to tow OR if you are going to tow "FOUR DOWN", where the weight of the TOAD is all on it's own wheels, use the '47s'.

You don't want to make the suspension so stiff that it makes the ride and handling unbearable. My reason for adding the Sumos was to knock off almost all of the rolling around the long axis of the coach in slow speed sharp turns or exiting/crossing some swales. They also improve the handling in gusts & passing trucks. Which they do.

Although lessened, there was still some rolling/rocking in the long axis which is caused by the high center of gravity coupling with the energy in the suspension. (stiffer is not better here) The idea with the Sumos is to damp/absorb the compression/jounce energy and not transfer it to the opposite side or store it. Sumo 'air springs' do that. They will also 'stabilize' the coach when parked.

The final solution was to add Koni FSD 'red color' shocks #8805-1056 (not the gold, older versions). At some 15.5K miles the OEMs were past their best used date. While you can't totally eliminate the side to side rolling, you can quickly damp it and reduce it's effect with the FSD & front and rear SumoSprings. (And actually, you really don't want to make the thing so stiff that it is a miserable ride...)

[stevepsd]

That is exactly what I was looking for. I will not be towing anything, so it's the SSR-338-47 for me.


Now another question...my Sprinter has the 2" rear axle spacers installed. Is there anything special on the install required because of the 'extra' space being utilized?


-steve

[Old Crows]

2" spacers....???? Not familiar with those. In the spring packs?

The "47s" should be a direct fit replacing the OEM bump stops. 3500s have a half moon saddle on the axle directly below the bump stop. On mine there is either a very slim, or no, space between the axle pad and the bottom of the Solo. It depends on the weight in the rear due to how full the fresh water tank may be or what is in rear storage.

[stevepsd]

The 2" spacer is a half-moon piece on the axle tube (from the Sumo Spring install paper). Mine looks exactly like the picture (of course without the Sumo Spring).



I have seen video of the install, and it looked tight without the spacer, not sure of how much room there would be with the spacer installed. I wonder if you have to disconnect the shocks to get more droop on the axle.

[Old Crows]

Steve, Here's two photos. Good to hear you were referring to the half-moon blocks located on the top of the axle. AFAIK, the 'moons' are only on the 3500 series. I don't recall having 'moons' on our 10 Class B built on a XL, XT 2500 van chassis. I'm confident that they will fit your Sprinter.

IMHO, you really want the Sumos to be in close contact with the axle. Sumos work on compression and are progressive in resistance up to 50% of their length. So, 0 lbs to 900lbs in about 2 1/2 inches. The idea here would be to not allow the upward motion of the axle to gain acceleration and kinetic energy as it travels upward. You want the 'damping' to start right away and progressively increase. That said, they will modestly increase the weight bearing of the rear suspension.

What appealed to me is that unlike an anti-roll bar, they do not 'push back' or transfer energy to the opposite side of the RV. They just squeeze and release.

14V24G OEM bump stops:

https://photos.google.com/search/_tr...14_gSRV3vzR0xl

14V24G SumoSprings SSR-338-47

https://photos.google.com/search/_tr...3h8DlRlI7KFyg5

[Old Crows]

Also, suggest tire pressures set no higher than placard on driver's door sill. Maybe a couple PSI less.

[stevepsd]

Originally Posted by Old Crows

Also, suggest tire pressures set no higher than placard on driver's door sill. Maybe a couple PSI less.

Yes, tires are set at 61psi.


I will try it with the front (SSF-106-47) & rear (SSR-338-47) Sumo Springs installed first, then if I need to I will install either the Koni or reworked Fox shocks from Agile - probably the new 2.5 units. I am used to the rebuildable nature of the Fox shocks as I use them on my dirt bikes and Jeeps.


As a aside, I have Koni shocks on my '74 Triumph TR-6 and ran Koni's on my first desert race bike - a '78 Husky CR250 way back in the day.

[Jaysails]

Originally Posted by Old Crows

Ok, so you have some miles on her.... good. I suggest gradualism. Sumos on the rear: Sumos on the front; Koni FSD's rear; OEM struts on front, OEM anti-roll bar on the rear (it's plenty good and a heavier one causes other issues).

I have SSR-338-47s on the rear of a '14 View Profile 24G. They are rated 900lbs at 50% compression. My friend wanted to improve the handling on his 18 View and ran into the same quandary. I called Super Springs and talked with the tech. Here's the answer: First, if you are going to tow a trailer that has a high tongue weight & use a hefty hitch, drawbar & sway control, consider the '54s'. (The weight is cantilevered off the end of the View, if you will, and has more effect.) If you are not going to tow OR if you are going to tow "FOUR DOWN", where the weight of the TOAD is all on it's own wheels, use the '47s'.

You don't want to make the suspension so stiff that it makes the ride and handling unbearable. My reason for adding the Sumos was to knock off almost all of the rolling around the long axis of the coach in slow speed sharp turns or exiting/crossing some swales. They also improve the handling in gusts & passing trucks. Which they do.

Although lessened, there was still some rolling/rocking in the long axis which is caused by the high center of gravity coupling with the energy in the suspension. (stiffer is not better here) The idea with the Sumos is to damp/absorb the compression/jounce energy and not transfer it to the opposite side or store it. Sumo 'air springs' do that. They will also 'stabilize' the coach when parked.

The final solution was to add Koni FSD 'red color' shocks #8805-1056 (not the gold, older versions). At some 15.5K miles the OEMs were past their best used date. While you can't totally eliminate the side to side rolling, you can quickly damp it and reduce it's effect with the FSD & front and rear SumoSprings. (And actually, you really don't want to make the thing so stiff that it is a miserable ride...)

Hi
Just wondered if these effect the warranty on a new View? Thanks

[Old Crows]

By these you mean the Sumo Solo (Sumo Springs) that replace the OEM bump stops?



I don't think you need worry.