1st Service, 2019 22M - For Do It Yourselfers

[TATANKA01]

Upon return from our first round trip from AZ to FL the odometer was at 5240 miles; a good time to do the first maintenance service. Note also that at 3200 miles I had to add a qt of conventional oil to maintain the full mark. It didn't use any oil the next 2000 miles so I assume it is now broken in.

Found the drain plug and oil filter easily accessible without jacking and used a 7 qt plastic drain pan to catch the old oil.Used a Ford Oil Filter(2 for $7.78) because it has the high temp silicone check valve. Used Walmart full synthetic 5W-30 ($17.45 for 5 qts)because the manual calls for this grade and I have been running Walmart Synthetic for many years with great success in other vehicles. Noticed this E350 came with a large oil cooler which will help the engine outlive me. Crankcase and cooler hold 7 quarts and another 1/3 qt for the filter.

Found no grease zerks on the driveshaft joints. Found 4 grease fitting zerks on the front tie rod assembly and was able to grease all by moving the steering lock to lock. Comes from factory with steering stabilizer)

Differential was checked and was full+ as it should be.

The air filter had quite an accumulation so I replaced it with a new K&N Lifetime Air Filter which I obtained on ebay (123947868137) for 47% off and free shipping. Used K&N Filter Oil (Spray Can) that I had on hand.

Last but not least the local Ford Dealer was happy to replace my original battery because voltage at rest was only 11.8 Volts. New battery is much better quality than original installed and is warranted 100% for 3 years.

Tires always checked cold and set at 65 psi. Airlift 5000 lb Air Suspension set at 35 psi to maintain level condition of all 4 corners.

Easy service for do it yourself with limited tools and skills and cost savings is substantial.

Best Regards Always, Robert

[blifsey]

I’ve found servicing the E series class C very easy. Did you do any generator service? When you change oil, you will see the generator exhaust runs right under the oil drain plug. Some folks have mentioned disconnecting and swinging it away. I use aluminum foil and made a cover with sides hanging down kind of funnel shaped. It worked great.

[Eagle5]

Hi Tatanka01,
I found one of the Grease Fittings on the Steering Arm Ball Joint needed to be updated:

• Zerk Fitting, or Grease Fitting, on the 22M

Also, our local Ford shop advises that each of these engines can vary slightly on the amount of oil needed to fill the crankcase after an oil change. Plan to add 6½ ±½ Quart. The correct oil level is determined by the dip stick, and should never be over-filled.
On my first oil change, I needed to add 6¾ quarts, and on my second oil change I used just 6½ quarts to reach the "full" line.
Thanks, Eagle5

[ThomB]

Not sure how low you sit but I found great results with draining the oil directly into an old can by using a Fumoto Valve. They are specific to the engine so I won't link it. I can drain without the hassles of dropping oil onto the cross member (this is an F53 chassis) then hoping it makes it to the catch container.

[TATANKA01]

Thank you all for sharing your tips as well. The 90 degree fitting is a good idea and I will be changing mine as well. I plan to change the oil in the generator before winterizing and will also drop the float bowl to clean and fill with non ethanol gas treated with stabil. The aluminum foil over the muffler pipe is a easy fix. Thank you

[lenore]

I am not fond of the K&N filters. I know you can clean them and oil and reuse, but the oil if not done properly will contaminate the MAF (Mas Air Flow) sensor. To me its way overpriced and does nothing for performance or fuel economy. Great job on doing your first maintenance. Saved a bundle.

[TATANKA01]

Thanks for your input. Have K&N'd many motors in the past and always follow the instructions on the oil spray can with perfect results. Last motorhome was a diesel pusher with Cummins Big Block and the airfilters cost $113 and were always dirty with under 15 k miles. Gutted the stock canister and installed a huge K&N cone that flowed 1800 cu ft / min. You could feel the difference and gas mileage was up over .5 mpg, especially at higher speeds. The stock air filter was holding the engine back. Haven t had a chance to test this but I will keep you posted. Since I drive 55-65 rpm is between 2000-2400 rpm so I probably won't see any increase in mileage but it may make the engine breath a little easier should I ever get in the power range between 3500 and 5000 rpm. You are right about saving a bundle and its easier than changing the oil in the car ! Considering the K&N cost me only a little more than a new ford paper filter the savings will consider to add up

[millerDE45]

I've changed all my engine oil, transmission oil and rear end gear oil to syn oil works great!

[09 harley]

The only suggestion I have is to throw that K&N filter on the garbage as fast as you can. If they were so great then the major companies would use them. The oil testing companies can tell if you add one because you end up with more junk in your oil. The supposed increase in air flow is insignificant and the engines that use them off road usually have a short life till rebuild. They will hope for improved performance realizing they will tear the engine down sooner anyhow. One of the best filters is the Ford OEM.
Two best filters are Mobil One and Purolator.
If your happy with your choices then I’m happy for you.

[bobojay]

Originally Posted by 09 harley

The only suggestion I have is to throw that K&N filter on the garbage as fast as you can. If they were so great then the major companies would use them. The oil testing companies can tell if you add one because you end up with more junk in your oil. The supposed increase in air flow is insignificant and the engines that use them off road usually have a short life till rebuild. They will hope for improved performance realizing they will tear the engine down sooner anyhow. One of the best filters is the Ford OEM.
Two best filters are Mobil One and Purolator.
If your happy with your choices then I’m happy for you.

What he says about the K&N. Have been told by more than one dealership mechanic never use one as they let too much junk in.
The OEM brand oil filter is best to use

[TATANKA01]

After reading internet postings on K&N Filters it would be best to pre filter your intake air with the K&N running into a stock paper filter and airbox. Best of both worlds !!

everybody has a right to their own opinion.........and if you want to challenge your mental powers I have provided a partial list below of "Food for Thought"

https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...01475-main.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjJBD5JA0t0

https://forums.anandtech.com/threads...ngine.2040364/