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Old 02-13-2014, 08:57 PM   #21
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http://www.winnebagoind.com/service/...04/4wfg35u.pdf

Larry
Look at page 160 and ahead. Takes a bit to load. We can use the part numbers to help is identify.
Jesse
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:56 AM   #22
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The slide just has a table and chairs.

I looked at the part drawings without a lot of understanding.

I have spent a lot of time looking at my slide. I know that there are many polyethylene glide blocks. The ones that slide up the ramp look to be damaged at the edges, but I see no easy way to replace them without removing the slide.

My concern is the bowing up of the slide floor in the middle. It just does not make sense to me.

Thanks for all your help. I will keep trying to match what I see of the mechanism itself with the parts diagram.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:03 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryMars View Post
The slide just has a table and chairs.

I looked at the part drawings without a lot of understanding.

I have spent a lot of time looking at my slide. I know that there are many polyethylene glide blocks. The ones that slide up the ramp look to be damaged at the edges, but I see no easy way to replace them without removing the slide.

My concern is the bowing up of the slide floor in the middle. It just does not make sense to me.

Thanks for all your help. I will keep trying to match what I see of the mechanism itself with the parts diagram.
Larry
I won't give up until I am sure we can't fix it or you get tired of trying. It still looks like it is extending too far and dropping down. If I am correct that very well could be why it is bowing. If you bump it in slightly can you stop it when the two floors are the same level? If you can send me a picture. This may only be a stop adjustment and if so I will find out how for you to make it happen.
Jesse
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:17 PM   #24
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when I stop the slide before the ends go lower than the floor, the middle part of the slide floor is more than a half inch above the coach floor, and the slide seals have not met the coach walls. Tomorrow I am moving. I will try to get some photos when I set up again. Thanks again for your help.

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Larry
I won't give up until I am sure we can't fix it or you get tired of trying. It still looks like it is extending too far and dropping down. If I am correct that very well could be why it is bowing. If you bump it in slightly can you stop it when the two floors are the same level? If you can send me a picture. This may only be a stop adjustment and if so I will find out how for you to make it happen.
Jesse
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:11 PM   #25
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I ran the slide out until the slide ends were level with the coach floor. The gasket on the slide front (that meets the inside wall of the coach) has about a quarter inch to go. The same gasket on the rear end of the slide has a full inch of travel left to meet the inside coach wall. The photo shows the rear slide end and the middle part, just beyond the couch, indicating the upward bow.

I did not realize that the slide is cocked.
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:30 PM   #26
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bowed slide floors are not uncommon, in my experience. I agree that a major adjustment is warranted. I look forward to your solution.
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:08 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by LarryMars View Post
I ran the slide out until the slide ends were level with the coach floor. The gasket on the slide front (that meets the inside wall of the coach) has about a quarter inch to go. The same gasket on the rear end of the slide has a full inch of travel left to meet the inside coach wall. The photo shows the rear slide end and the middle part, just beyond the couch, indicating the upward bow.

I did not realize that the slide is cocked.
Hey Larry
This is what I am thinking needs to happen in order:

1. We need to adjust the stops so that the slide doesn't over extend and I am thinking at this point that the adjustments could also correct the side to side difference. (am I correct in that it has been getting worse over time? ****How long have you had this coach?)**** I will soon have the adjustment method for you. If we can not get the slide to adjust correctly we will look into the condition of the slide bushings. Does it make a metal to metal sound when moving?****

2. I believe that due to the stops being out for some time the metal framing around the slide that the wood trim screws to has flexed from too much pressure against the coach wall. This we can correct after the we align the slide correctly.

3. If the slide at this point continues to bow in the middle we will need to find out why and correct it. We may need to flex it back. May be something stuck under it.

4. We will need to modify the slide shoe to minimize ware on the new floor.

5. We will need to install a corner strip to protect the new floors edge. I would recommend a 2" wide rubber floor stripping to be attached to the slides edge so that when extended it looks nice.


The pictures help very much. You can't send too many. I will need the serial number or build date to do my research. ****Where is your general location. ****Are you ever in the central Florida area?****

These slides can be a little intimidating. I believe we can do this.

Jesse
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:39 PM   #28
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as with other coaches, I supply a few pieces of luxury vinyl planks that can be inserted under slide so that the slide rides on them, thus stopping the damage
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:15 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbmsr View Post
Hey Larry
This is what I am thinking needs to happen in order:

1. We need to adjust the stops so that the slide doesn't over extend and I am thinking at this point that the adjustments could also correct the side to side difference. (am I correct in that it has been getting worse over time? ****How long have you had this coach?)**** I will soon have the adjustment method for you. If we can not get the slide to adjust correctly we will look into the condition of the slide bushings. Does it make a metal to metal sound when moving?****
Answer: I don't think it has gotten worse. We bought the coach used in 2010. It had 9,000 miles on it then and the carpet was ripped at the slide ends. It does make metal-to-metal sounds.

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Originally Posted by Jbmsr View Post
2. I believe that due to the stops being out for some time the metal framing around the slide that the wood trim screws to has flexed from too much pressure against the coach wall. This we can correct after the we align the slide correctly.
Answer: How could I check for this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbmsr View Post
3. If the slide at this point continues to bow in the middle we will need to find out why and correct it. We may need to flex it back. May be something stuck under it.
Answer: I have looked under the slide and have found nothing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbmsr View Post
4. We will need to modify the slide shoe to minimize ware on the new floor.

5. We will need to install a corner strip to protect the new floors edge. I would recommend a 2" wide rubber floor stripping to be attached to the slides edge so that when extended it looks nice.

The pictures help very much. You can't send too many. I will need the serial number or build date to do my research. ****Where is your general location. ****Are you ever in the central Florida area?****
Answer: I can take a picture of anything you want. Are you referring to serial number for the slide? I looked for that once because I wanted to replace a broken emergency retract rod. I could not find it. Where would I find the build date? Our general travel is west coast from Oregon to Mexico. We are currently in San Felipe, Baja Cal. We seldom get to Florida anymore.

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These slides can be a little intimidating. I believe we can do this.

Jesse
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:49 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryMars View Post

Answer: I don't think it has gotten worse. We bought the coach used in 2010. It had 9,000 miles on it then and the carpet was ripped at the slide ends. It does make metal-to-metal sounds.

Answer: How could I check for this?

Answer: I have looked under the slide and have found nothing.

Answer: I can take a picture of anything you want. Are you referring to serial number for the slide? I looked for that once because I wanted to replace a broken emergency retract rod. I could not find it. Where would I find the build date? Our general travel is west coast from Oregon to Mexico. We are currently in San Felipe, Baja Cal. We seldom get to Florida anymore.
Good info Larry. With the slide in a bit and the
level with the coach floor (not the bowed area) take some pictures of where the slide frame is suppose to meet but doesn't. I would like to see both sides, top and bottom. Your coach serial number (on a sticker at drivers area) will allow the Winnebago tech to know what slide I am needing info about. You can pm it to me if you want. Don't worry about the bow now. Lets start by getting the slide adjustments set first. I will let the tech know about the the metal to metal sound and get his opinion wether we need bushings and if so how difficult they are to change.

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Old 02-16-2014, 05:28 PM   #31
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Hello Jesse

Serial Number: 10G83E276266

I had to take the photos of the rear end of the slide through a mirror. I hope these help. The perspective might be a little tricky. Again, the slide is almost out, and the ends are level with the coach floor.

Thanks.
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:49 PM   #32
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I like the pictures. I will research and get back with you soon.
Jesse
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:55 PM   #33
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I sent your pictures to my friend and he is thinking that the slide frame is fine. He remembers that Winnebago has a conversion kit that includes a covered shoe with pre drilled holes that is ready to install. He says that they used a 4" ratchet strap over the top of the coach to secure the slide which will allow you to take the framing off ( it is not that difficult ) and after extending the slide you can tilt it out (it will pivot out) and replace the slide shoe. He said that your slide was notorious in that the screws would work there way out (some were rivets) of the slide shoe and scrap the floor and that is most likely the metal to metal sound. He also said that after the adjustment ( which I will get you the directions soon) he would cut a pice of carpet that over laps the slide out floor by 3 to 4"s and have a carpet company install the finished edge. He said it will look great that way. He said that it is good to glue the same carpet down around the edge of the slide on the coach floor and down the ramped edge so the new slide shoe will have a smooth edge to slide on it won't be seen as the other carpet will cover it up.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:43 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbmsr View Post
I sent your pictures to my friend and he is thinking that the slide frame is fine. He remembers that Winnebago has a conversion kit that includes a covered shoe with pre drilled holes that is ready to install. He says that they used a 4" ratchet strap over the top of the coach to secure the slide which will allow you to take the framing off ( it is not that difficult ) and after extending the slide you can tilt it out (it will pivot out) and replace the slide shoe. He said that your slide was notorious in that the screws would work there way out (some were rivets) of the slide shoe and scrap the floor and that is most likely the metal to metal sound. He also said that after the adjustment ( which I will get you the directions soon) he would cut a pice of carpet that over laps the slide out floor by 3 to 4"s and have a carpet company install the finished edge. He said it will look great that way. He said that it is good to glue the same carpet down around the edge of the slide on the coach floor and down the ramped edge so the new slide shoe will have a smooth edge to slide on it won't be seen as the other carpet will cover it up.
Jesse
Larry
Revision:
Not carpet on ramp. Needs to be neoprene for the new slide shoe to slide on with ease and little ware.
I used this on my adventurer and got it at an air boat repair shop in there scrap pile for free.
Jesse
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:14 PM   #35
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Wow. I'm not sure I am capable of doing this. Mostly I am a little lost in your description of what needs to be done.

While I was under the slide looking around, I discovered some white plastic pieces (maybe polyethylene). They were laying on top of the compartment under the rear hydraulic ram. I have included a picture. The pieces appear to be broken off the same thing, or maybe this is most of it. The long piece is about 3 inches long.
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:36 PM   #36
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Wow. I'm not sure I am capable of doing this. Mostly I am a little lost in your description of what needs to be done.

While I was under the slide looking around, I discovered some white plastic pieces (maybe polyethylene). They were laying on top of the compartment under the rear hydraulic ram. I have included a picture. The pieces appear to be broken off the same thing, or maybe this is most of it. The long piece is about 3 inches long.
Larry
I believe that is what the slide actually road on. It was mounted to bottom leading edge of the slide.
Jesse
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Old 02-19-2014, 08:53 AM   #37
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I have downloaded the PDF mentioned previously, but have been unable to determine where this part might be located. Can you tell me what part number it is and which diagram it is on? I have been through this diagram, and I don't see them. I also don't see the emergency retraction screws, so I am wondering if this diagram is the for the flat-floor slide???
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:59 PM   #38
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I have downloaded the PDF mentioned previously, but have been unable to determine where this part might be located. Can you tell me what part number it is and which diagram it is on? I have been through this diagram, and I don't see them. I also don't see the emergency retraction screws, so I am wondering if this diagram is the for the flat-floor slide???
Hi Larry
Calm down :-) it is not that complicated. Take it as a challenge with nothing to loose. We are only in research mode now.
This PDF is from Winnebago and it is for your coach and the flat floor slide.
Look at part # 29
(115661-01-000 FT SHOE/GLIDE - SLIDEOUT ROOM - 1/16" X 3" - POLYETHYLENE)

This Polyethylene part was the length of the slide out. I have removed it before. It is placed in the grooved edges of part # 26 that is secured to the bottom the slide with screws (you called them the emergency retraction screws) that have been known to back out and cause floor damage. When I reinstalled my Part #26 I used larger screws.
Larry you may decide to terminate this venture before we complete the research mode. I am ok with that. However I want to help you until we fix the slide. I have everything to gain.
Jesse
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:29 PM   #39
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removeing carpet

Once you remove the carpet and install a hard surface, make sure you install a wiper in front of your new carpeted shoe as you move the slide in if there's hard debris that can be dragged it will scratch your floor. A wiper can be made from same carpet material installed in cargo bay.
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:06 AM   #40
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a Swiffer works well
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