Vectra or Horizon Water Pressure limiter

LK23 · 02-09-2005, 06:25 AM

Do you use a water pressure limiter on your Vectra or Horizon? I have a 2005 Horizon 40AD. The manual suggests using a 40 psi limiter on the water input. The ShurFlow water pump manual says it stops running at 65 psi. Obviously, the water lines are rated for at least 65 psi. I have used the 40 psi limiter and it really slows the water pressure. Your thoughts?

LK23 · 02-09-2005, 06:25 AM

Do you use a water pressure limiter on your Vectra or Horizon? I have a 2005 Horizon 40AD. The manual suggests using a 40 psi limiter on the water input. The ShurFlow water pump manual says it stops running at 65 psi. Obviously, the water lines are rated for at least 65 psi. I have used the 40 psi limiter and it really slows the water pressure. Your thoughts?

The Shadow · 02-09-2005, 07:53 AM

I agree with your concern LK. I'm using a 40 psi limiter as well and there is very little pressure IMO.

Hopefully someone has an answer.

Stan Birch · 02-09-2005, 08:34 AM

Yielding to a whole bunch of questionable hype, we bought one of those Marshall pressure regulators a few years back, but only used it a couple of times at inception.

PEX water lines are rated somewhere in the area of 100+ PSI. And after six years with this rig, not using a pressure-regulator, we've yet to encounter any kind of misadventure remotely associated with excessive water pressure.

bsmith8 · 02-09-2005, 09:33 AM

I seldom use the limiter unless the campgroud post a warning itself. I do run the spicket before I hook up to observe the pressure but I try not to use the limiter unless the pressure seams unusually high. In January I was in orlando and the park had limiters on every spicket. I actually ran my pump to boost the pressure it was so bad.
Does anyone make a 65psi limiter? I would buy it and use it.
Bill

ichn2go · 02-09-2005, 12:45 PM

Camping World has an adjustable water pressure fitting with guage I believe the price is around $40.00. You can adjust it to where you want it at the campground. I keep mine set on about 60lbs and never have had a problem. Good Miles

3huskies · 02-09-2005, 12:56 PM

http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Pr...Regulators.htm

BucknJeff · 02-09-2005, 01:34 PM

Like Ichn2go says, an adjustable unit is great. Being non-conventional at heart, I concockted my own. Reason is, the ones from Camping world, and others don't just limit pressure, they inhibit flow as well. Our answer was to purchase an adjustable "whole house" water pressure regulator (I think it was about $35) and the necessary fittings to be able to connect it to the hoses. We also added a pressure guage after the regulator to be able to see what pressure we are getting.

It works great. We have it set to 65lbs, and have great water flow, and no problems.

Hope this helps.

rgrstndgby · 02-09-2005, 03:24 PM

BandJ, where did you purchase your regulator?.. Any make and model available??.. Thanks...rgr...

The Shadow · 02-09-2005, 03:46 PM

The water pressure in our park seems pretty strong (another resident told me it is around 100 psi) so I don't really want to remove the limiter. I expect to be at CW in the next couple of weeks and will look at the variable pressure units.

ppeter313 · 02-10-2005, 01:57 AM

It's not the piping you have to worry about, it's the fittings. I'm a firm believer in reducers after having a crimped connector in the bathroom blow apart at Fort Wilderness many years ago. Like BucknJeff I finally built my own after having to replace several of the Marshall units over the years. I use a 3/4" pressure reducing valve- from Grainger's for about $45.00, but I think Home Depot carries them also. I added a pressure gauge on both sides so I can see incoming and outgoing pressures. I also added quick connects for the hose on both ends. I use a 5/8" hose from the spigot. The combination of the 5/8" hose and 3/4" pressure reducer eliminates any restrictions to the volume of water, which is as important as pressure.

Paul

BucknJeff · 02-10-2005, 03:50 PM

rgr,

It is a Watts whole house regulator which was purchased at a Home Depot. You also have to buy the various brass fittings to make it fit on the spicket and connect a hose to it.

(I can't look at it to get the model number cause the coach is in Palm Springs, and we are freezing in Chicago) (Drat!)

It works great!

GG1 · 02-10-2005, 05:37 PM

Why not try the poor mans method? When hooked up to city water and your fresh water tank full run the pump along with the city hookup when in the shower. Every 3-4 days top off the fresh water tank. It works fine.

rgrstndgby · 02-10-2005, 06:54 PM

Thanks BnJ, whole house, from Home depot.. Thanks again...rgr...

405landlord · 02-11-2005, 05:36 PM

The pressure regulator you are looking for is made for mobile homes. I could not find one in the Chicago area. I found mine at a Home Depot in Montgomery, AL. I believe it is a Watts and is adjustable. It comes with 3/4 NPT fittings on both sides and you will have to use teflon tape with the proper adapters to use it with water hoses. Be aware that this regulator is rather large and heavy. I have run into a few parks where I could not attach it to the water pedestal due to clearance problems. That aside, it works great because it does not restrict volume just pressure.

LK23 · 02-12-2005, 03:32 PM

Thanks to all who responded. Here's what happened:

First, I purchased the Watts pressure regulator at Camping World for $44.95. I hooked it up and set the pressure to 65 psi. The water flow was still pretty lousy. I plan to return that unit to CW.

Next, I went to Home Depot and purchased a larger Watts pressure regulator with ¾ inch pipe fittings for $24.95. I also purchased a ½ inch tee, a $6.95 pressure gauge and brass ¾ inch water hose fittings. I hooked this up and the pressure is great. What a difference!

Better yet, I regularly hook a GE sediment filter (also Home Depot) between the water spigot and the water input of my coach. I connected the Watts pressure regulator to the input side of the filter and the tee and pressure gauge combination to the output side of the sediment filter. This entire unit will stay connected and I each time I hook up I only have to hook the coach water hose to the fitting at the tee and I run a short water hose from the input side of the Watts pressure regulator to the water spigot.

This entire unit stands on the ground outside my water compartment. I found a 4 in plastic flange at Home Depot the perfectly fits on the bottom of the GE filter that serves as a stand to keep the unit upright.

3huskies · 02-13-2005, 01:43 AM

LK23,
I would put the regulator after the filter to keep the sediment out of it. The Watts regulator can be disassembled for cleaning and rebuild kits are available.

John_Canfield · 02-13-2005, 02:31 AM

When I was inspecting a Horizon 40AD last week, I noticed the poly water tubing for the coach water plumbing was rated for 100 PSI (stamped on the tubing.) Of course the ratings of the fittings are an unknown.

When we had the sailboat, we always hooked up to dock water while at the dock and always through a pressure limiter. Every time we left the boat to go somewhere, we ALWAYS cut the water off -- if the fresh water plumbing sprung a leak while you were gone, you would return to sunken vessel. It is not a bad idea for RVers to do the same. My $0.02