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Old 01-10-2019, 03:08 PM   #1
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Stuck Wheel Simulator Bolts

I've tried a number of times to get the wheel simulators off the rear wheels of my 2011 Sunstar, with no success. I've bent the handle on the piece of crap removal tool trying to loosen the two nuts. They don't budge.

Does anyone know the size socket required to remove these so I can get a proper tool to do the job?
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Old 01-10-2019, 04:54 PM   #2
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1-1/8 will fit the top of the nut but it’s tapered so I didn’t try with the one I have. I ended up taking a crescent wrench with the factory tool head to get them off.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
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1-1/8 will fit the top of the nut but itís tapered so I didnít try with the one I have. I ended up taking a crescent wrench with the factory tool head to get them off.
I'll give that a try, though on the rear wheels the nuts are recessed way in so getting access with the crescent wrench may be difficult.
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Old 01-12-2019, 04:55 PM   #4
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Only 2 of them come off, the others are fixed. The ones that come off have dimples on the side. I also had to use a socket to get them off (donít remember the size). After getting them off, I smeared a little white grease on the bottom of them before reinstalling. That helped a lot for future removal.

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Old 01-16-2019, 07:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by affreeman View Post
I've tried a number of times to get the wheel simulators off the rear wheels of my 2011 Sunstar, with no success. I've bent the handle on the piece of crap removal tool trying to loosen the two nuts. They don't budge.

Does anyone know the size socket required to remove these so I can get a proper tool to do the job?
On my 2004 Minnie, which probably has the same ones, I have found the removal tool is worthless (except for when putting back on). As Dwaugh10 points out only two are removable and you can't always see the dimples. For mine I use a 1 1/8 socket with 1/2 inch rachet drive and 8 " extender. Tap on the fake nuts, they will ring hollow. The nuts that are removable give a solid thud. Use the removal tool that came with the wheel simulators for putting the nuts back on. It's use will prevent you from overtightening the fake nut. They are only on with just over a thread and can easily be stripped.
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Old 01-17-2019, 04:53 AM   #6
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Wheel simulator jam nuts

Those nuts are called jam nuts. A metal nut is inside the fake nut body. They are supposed to be hand tightened, but tire stores are notorious for using an impact tool when they put the nuts back on. I've had them do that even after telling them to be sure not to do it. Anyway, that makes them impossible to remove with the hand tool provided by Winnebago. Now, when I go to get tire work done, I just go ahead and remove the wheel simulators before I leave for the tire store and put them back on and tighten them with the hand tool when I return.

As mentioned before, get a 1 1/8 socket, I found that I needed a deep socket because my regular socket bottomed out before going all the way down on the nut body. You can use an extension and a pull handle or an impact wrench. Or, you can just go to a tire store and get them broken loose, then tighten them with the hand tool yourself.
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:23 AM   #7
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I think you have 22.5 wheels and the fake nuts are 1 9/16
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:47 AM   #8
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I ended up getting a 1 1/8" socket for a 1" drive so I could use my torque multiplier to get the nuts off.

When I put the wheel simulators back on I'll put a bit of grease on the nuts and use the little Winnebago tool.
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:48 AM   #9
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I think you have 22.5 wheels and the fake nuts are 1 9/16
I've got 19.5 wheels and the fake nuts are 1 1/8".
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:09 PM   #10
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Interesting that the jamb nuts should be tightened to no more than 40 ft-lbs. Just barely over hand tightened. But the lug nuts torque on big Class A's, 19.5 and 22.5 tires, is in the range of 450 ft-lbs.

It once took the Winnebago factory techs 2 days to give up their quest at my request to come up with the correct jamb nut torque on my rig...they gave up and had to contact the hubcap manufacturer.
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Old 01-19-2019, 08:09 PM   #11
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Are those wheel simulators primarily used on Class A motorhomes? After reading comments on them last year I wondered if my Class C had them. Upon checking ours very carefully I determined the chrome wheel covers were just that - wheel covers, not simulators, friction-fit and not bolted on. With some effort and a good crooked prybar I got them off without damaging them.

Or do some heavier Class C's have the simulators too?

I did notice later that according to a copy of the chassis "MSRP sticker" that was in our purchase paperwork indicated that Ford supplied those wheel covers as part of the cutaway package.
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Old 01-20-2019, 07:03 AM   #12
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For those with 22.5" wheels. A suggestion.

On our '07 Adventurer, with 22.5" aluminum wheels, some of the simulated chrome lug nuts we stuck. They were apparently over tightened with the same heavy duty impact wrench that tightened the real lug nuts. The front ones could be loosened with a large adjustable crescent wrench and a small sledge hammer! As the OP mentioned, you can't get to the rear, recessed ones that way.
I bought and used this ebay item that can remove or tighten all the large lug nuts on the motorhome. It is capable of over 2000 Ft-Lbs. Yes, over 2000 Ft Lbs!


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Mult...Ktn:rk:23:pf:0


Only $39.14 for a tool that seems like it should sell for $300, but that's China for ya. In addition, you will need a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer in order to use your 1/2 tools with it For example, your torque wrench. Be sure it's 3/4" male to 1/2" female adapter. See link below.

The 41mm socket (it's big) will fit the simulated lug nuts. The 39mm socket fits the real lug nuts and can easily remove or replace them to the required 450 Ft-Lbs. I verified with the tire shop torque wrench (5 feet long!), that my 15 Ft-Lbs put 450 Ft-Lbs on the lugs.
A while ago, had a blowout, and the repair truck did not have the proper socket to remove the over tightened simulated nut. Big problem, when stuck on the road.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Female-...GP-:rk:38:pf:0


Be careful not to over tighten the 450 Ft-Lb lug nuts.


I'm sure this will help some of you out there.
Happy travels, Richard
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Old 01-20-2019, 10:32 AM   #13
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My class C minnie came with the bolt on wheel simulators (16" wheels). Also learned hard way that tow trucks don't always carry tools needed. So I carry correct size sockets and other special tools for RV needed for tires and towing.
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek View Post
Interesting that the jamb nuts should be tightened to no more than 40 ft-lbs. Just barely over hand tightened. But the lug nuts torque on big Class A's, 19.5 and 22.5 tires, is in the range of 450 ft-lbs.

It once took the Winnebago factory techs 2 days to give up their quest at my request to come up with the correct jamb nut torque on my rig...they gave up and had to contact the hubcap manufacturer.
The jam nuts don't need a lot of torque, just enough to keep the wheel simulator on. The main wheel nuts keep the wheel on. I've never had a problem with the wheel simulator nuts loosening when hand-tightened.
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