Solar Panel Addition to Vista 27N - Page 3

powercat_ras · 10-13-2017, 03:15 PM

I have been improving my Vista 27N Solar as I go along. I am now up to 6 100 Watt Polycrystalline Solar Panels, I have them wired in two series banks of 3 in parallel. These panels have integrated blocking diodes so this only involved how I wire the panels together and to the charge controller.

I now have a Windy Nation TracMax 30L MPPT Charge Controller with Battery Temperature Charge Compensation and Excess Temperature Protection, mounted in the passenger side overhead cabinet under the front cap. This location is a carry over from my original design with the panels mounted in the front of the RV roof, before I realized there would be many problems with shading in that panel mounting location.

If I had it to do over from scratch I would run my panel wiring down by the grey tank vent and mount the charge controller recessed in the hall wall with a trim plate with some ventilation openings around it. That wall is deep due to the vent pipe running up it, and has a large dead space inside of it.

GearJerker · 11-06-2017, 02:45 PM

Here are some blog posts from my dad about our solar install on our Vista LX 27N. I'm looking forward to more testing and tweaking! Probably 6v on the way and maybe a few 12 outlets in the bedroom.

Just Finding Our Way: Vista XL 27N

W6LMJ · 02-08-2019, 04:16 PM

Hello, guys,
I have Sunstar 27N and would like to put solar on the roof. I am looking to put two or three Uni-Solar PVL-136 PowerBond PVL 136 Watt 24 Volt 216-Inch x 15.5-Inch Flexible Solar Panels on the roof, which should give me a little over 400 watts. How do I find the right spot to drill a hole through the roof to route the wires?

al1florida · 02-08-2019, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by W6LMJ

Hello, guys,
I have Sunstar 27N and would like to put solar on the roof. I am looking to put two or three Uni-Solar PVL-136 PowerBond PVL 136 Watt 24 Volt 216-Inch x 15.5-Inch Flexible Solar Panels on the roof, which should give me a little over 400 watts. How do I find the right spot to drill a hole through the roof to route the wires?

You are likely to receive more replies to your question by opening a new topic rather than add to an old topic.
Many people look at the number of replies and figure what ever the original question was has been resolved and it is just an ongoing discussion.

powercat_ras · 02-08-2019, 07:48 PM

Just to keep this thread up to date...

I was not satified with the operation of my former system, I was not getting desired charging current and I felt that the length and sizing of my wire runs from panels to controller and on to batteries was not good enough. So I relocated the solar charge controller to the hallway using the very deep cavity in the hallway - bathroom wall and dropped my solar wiring directly down. Also a much shorter run from there to the battery terminals.

The final version of my solar system is:

Four Interstate by Costco 200 Amp-Hour 6 Volt Golf Cart Batteries, 2 under the step and 2 in the front driver's side compartment in 2 home made vented battery boxes.

Victron BMV-700 Battery Monitor

Windy Nation TrackMax 30L MPPT Solar Charge Controller with Battery and Ambient Air Temperature Sensing, mounted in the hallway <> bathroom wall cavity

30 Amp Breaker in Controller to Battery Line

30 Amp Breaker in Controller to Solar Panel Line

Disconnect switch in Solar Panel Line (I disconnect the solar panels from the solar charge controller when RV is powered by shore power or generator. This allows the AC converter charger to operate in bulk charge mode correctly allowing batteries to be recharged faster when charging from AC power.)

Roof Top Junction Box

6 GA wiring from Junction Box to Controller to Battery Terminals

6 Eco-Worth 100 W Polycrystalline Solar Panels wired in parallel to a roof top junction box with pos and neg bus bars inside

superlucky · 02-09-2019, 07:42 AM

Terry
With regards to your question about how to locate thge location for wires....
I elected to run my wires through the roof and into the hallway wall between the hall and the bathroom. If you take careful measurements from the skylight dome over the shower you will have success. Removing the control board on the hallway wall as well as the vent at the bottom of the wall will give you access to run the wires.

That was the only hole that I drilled.
I used 3m VHB tape to hold my panels on the roof. They are still there!!! That stuff is great.

Good luck
Bill

powercat_ras · 02-09-2019, 11:16 PM

Some more information on how to locate the wall between the bathroom and the hall from above. You can remove the OnePlace monitor panel and drill up from below with a long drill bit.

Or you can locate the wall from above using two Winnebago installed items on the roof.

Ahead of the photo I posted is the grey water tank vent, that is centered in the wall between the bathroom and hall in the front end of the wall.

You will see a radio antenna in the photo, it is centered in the wall forward of the bathroom door.

BobC · 02-10-2019, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superlucky

That was the only hole that I drilled.
I used 3m VHB tape to hold my panels on the roof. They are still there!!! That stuff is great.

Good luck
Bill

What kind of mounting brackets did you use with the VHB, and how many per panel?

superlucky · 02-11-2019, 09:31 AM

Bobc
I went to Home Depot and bought some angle aluminum (I think it was 1 1/2 x 1 1/2, but could have been 2x2). I bolted it to the panels and I ran the I ran 4 foot sections along the two sides of the panels that were going to face the left and right side of the coach. I did this to allow air to flow under the panels while underway.
If you look at the specifications for the 3m tape, it has some unbelievable hold strength. It is measured in pounds per square inch. I believe that by using 4 ft of tape on each piece of aluminum I have enough strength to hold a Mack truck.
They have been up there for three years now and there is no sign of them letting loose.

(I was quite concerned about using the tape, but you will find that it is incredibly strong. If you order some, do a test with it on a small piece. Then, try to pry it up. You will be amazed).

The only way to remove the stuff is to slide a thin piece of wire between the bonded surfaces and saw it back and forth.

BobC · 02-11-2019, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superlucky

Bobc
I went to Home Depot and bought some angle aluminum (I think it was 1 1/2 x 1 1/2, but could have been 2x2). I bolted it to the panels and I ran the I ran 4 foot sections along the two sides of the panels that were going to face the left and right side of the coach. I did this to allow air to flow under the panels while underway.
If you look at the specifications for the 3m tape, it has some unbelievable hold strength. It is measured in pounds per square inch. I believe that by using 4 ft of tape on each piece of aluminum I have enough strength to hold a Mack truck.
They have been up there for three years now and there is no sign of them letting loose.

(I was quite concerned about using the tape, but you will find that it is incredibly strong. If you order some, do a test with it on a small piece. Then, try to pry it up. You will be amazed).

The only way to remove the stuff is to slide a thin piece of wire between the bonded surfaces and saw it back and forth.

That's pretty much exactly what I'd planned on doing other than I wasn't thinking of 4' long brackets. Instead I was thinking of four shorter (maybe 6" to 1') brackets at the ends of the long sides. I have the VSB and have already used small pieces for repairs both on the MH and at home. It should be in everyone's repair kit along with duct tape and Wd-40.

I agree that VSB on a clean surface is going to have a lot more holding power than two or three screws into 1/8" plywood. And no roof penetrations to leak. I