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Old 01-05-2020, 09:27 AM   #1
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Slide hydraulics started leaking

She has been sitting for winter for about two months now. The room slide has worked flawlessly since I purchased it in 2016, bringing it out of a seven year slumber after the PO's had passed. I have had intermittent problems with the RF leveler not retracting without some "encouragement" but I suspect that is a different issue.

I just discovered a spot on my driveway, and the hydraulic sync cylinder under the main slide is leaking. The 90 degree elbow is loose -- I can turn it with my fingers. Assuming this is my only problem, how to I tighten it? If I turn it very far the hydraulic hose will no longer reach it. My plan right now is to tighten it, clean the area, and look for leaks. A search of the forums noted some general hose issues with the year/model.

This likely has been leaking undetected for awhile, as I don't generally move the slides while in my driveway. On gravel in a campground it would be easy to miss the spot.

Any general advice on how to fix this?
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Old 01-05-2020, 12:09 PM   #2
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I take it the hose is swedged onto the elbow?

I've seen other's talking of taking this kind of issue to a hydraulic shop or even a truck stop. They would have the tools to fix this and it's probably not a big job for them.

I looked near Willow Spring and see plenty of hydraulic places around you. On Site Hose in Apex looks like a good option.
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Old 01-05-2020, 08:23 PM   #3
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Looks to me like there are two places there to attach end wrenches. So you should be able to loosen the hose and remove it and then remove the elbow. But, spray the area with a cleaner of some kind first to be sure. It appears that the elbow has a female and the hose end is male. Perhaps...And if that's true, then you should be able to wrench the hose off of the elbow. Than take the elbow out.

If that's the case: What I'd do is add several layers of teflon tape to the treads of both ends of the elbow at least 5 layers. Put everything back together, top off the tank with everything retracted, then see how it looks, leak wise.

If you still have a small leak there, note that ATF Stop Leak works.

And then there's the jacks...in a 2000 model, with HWH hydraulic system, I believe you have 4 jacks that return to the top with the aid of springs. Check out those springs...two per jack. If they have un-tapered ends, that's your problem with them retracting. You should replace them all with the newer tapered end springs. eBay and Amazon carry them.
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Old 01-06-2020, 06:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
I take it the hose is swedged onto the elbow?

I've seen other's talking of taking this kind of issue to a hydraulic shop or even a truck stop. They would have the tools to fix this and it's probably not a big job for them.

I looked near Willow Spring and see plenty of hydraulic places around you. On Site Hose in Apex looks like a good option.
Thanks. I'm biased toward learning how to do these repairs myself, but I recognize might take equipment that I don't have. This seems like a solid option.
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:03 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek View Post
Looks to me like there are two places there to attach end wrenches. So you should be able to loosen the hose and remove it and then remove the elbow. But, spray the area with a cleaner of some kind first to be sure. It appears that the elbow has a female and the hose end is male. Perhaps...And if that's true, then you should be able to wrench the hose off of the elbow. Than take the elbow out.

If that's the case: What I'd do is add several layers of teflon tape to the treads of both ends of the elbow at least 5 layers. Put everything back together, top off the tank with everything retracted, then see how it looks, leak wise.

If you still have a small leak there, note that ATF Stop Leak works.

And then there's the jacks...in a 2000 model, with HWH hydraulic system, I believe you have 4 jacks that return to the top with the aid of springs. Check out those springs...two per jack. If they have un-tapered ends, that's your problem with them retracting. You should replace them all with the newer tapered end springs. eBay and Amazon carry them.
I was considering Teflon tape, but didn't know if that was a valid method with hydraulics. Do I need to bleed the system after cracking the line? My only experience with hydraulics has been automotive brakes, which are very sensitive to air on lines.

RE: jacks: yep, HWH with spring return with springs with square ends. I was reading up on this problem, too, and I knew it as a fix, but didn't know how to tell if I already had the fix. I'm the third owner of this rig and the papers I inherited showed some very expensive jack repairs. I like this -- a much cheaper and easier approach than replacing hydraulic cylinders.

Thanks!
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:26 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by TASpinner View Post
I was considering Teflon tape, but didn't know if that was a valid method with hydraulics. Do I need to bleed the system after cracking the line? My only experience with hydraulics has been automotive brakes, which are very sensitive to air on lines.

RE: jacks: yep, HWH with spring return with springs with square ends. I was reading up on this problem, too, and I knew it as a fix, but didn't know how to tell if I already had the fix. I'm the third owner of this rig and the papers I inherited showed some very expensive jack repairs. I like this -- a much cheaper and easier approach than replacing hydraulic cylinders.

Thanks!
I would find it hard to believe that the hose would be swedged onto a 90 degree elbow. Would not be easy to install during manufacturing. That's why I believe it's a male end hose with a straight threaded connector. Easier to install. And I think I see that in your pictures. Maybe clean off the area where the leak is first and take a look. Any good solvent would reveal what is under all that goo. Then perhaps you'll find something just needs to be tightened...not removed at all. But...I don't know, best to have a look under the greasy goo.

Since you have a HWH system, you can get free expert advice from AZPete. He's a member here, works for HWH and helps people on the forums. Does not sell stuff. Just helps you figure out what's wrong and points you to a solution. Good guy. Do a search for his name and PM him.

Remember they make several styles of springs with the taper so be sure you know which type # you need. Like I said, both eBay and Amazon carry them along with several other suppliers. If you need it, I have some info on how to determine what to order. And AZPete will be able to tell you too.
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Old 01-07-2020, 07:51 AM   #7
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1. As Jim recommended, you should clean everything so you can determine exactly what is leaking. The elbow may be the only source but HWH hoses had an issue in the early 2000s with bad ferrules where they're swaged on to the hoses. I had to replace several hoses in my 2002 35U.

2. If it's only the elbow, tightening (or replacement) should fix it. The hoses are easy to disconnect from the fittings. If the hose or hoses are leaking, I recommend replacement rather than repair. After all, they're close to 20 years old. Note that many of the hoses appear to be longer than necessary but the lengths are critical in order to balance flows in matched pairs. The hoses are bundled up in "hanks" to manage the excess, but necessary lengths. You never want to neaten things up with shorter hoses. If you unbundle the hoses you might find you have enough play to disconnect the hoses and tighten the elbow. Fortunately if you have the same system as my 2002 35U, the hoses connecting to the elbows are relatively easy to replace since they run to the ends of the hydraulic cylinders in your storage bays and are relatively short. If you need extra play to tighten the elbow, you can disconnect these hoses at the cylinders in the storage bay. The cylinder you're seeing is called the "synchronizing cylinder".

3. You can have new hoses made up by a local shop but my preference is to order replacements from HWH. The cost isn't prohibitive and you know that you're getting exactly what you need. Not only are the hoses different lengths but the type of hose varies with it's application. The hoses are labeled via a white plastic sleeve near the ferrules. I found that if they're hard to read, a cellphone photo can be helpful since you can adjust the contrast, etc. This may also help you ID the hoses:

https://www.hwhcorp.com/winnebago2017_diagrams.html

Despite what some have reported, I've found HWH to be very responsive and helpful when contacted by phone. Plus, now should be a good time as opposed to spring or summer.

4. Once you've identified exactly what's leaking, AZPete is a great resource.

5. After replacing the hoses, you'll need to bleed the system, a process that is similar to bleeding brake lines. You'll also need to top off your fluid reservoir.

Let us know what you find after cleaning everything.
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Old 01-08-2020, 12:15 PM   #8
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That should be an ez fix. Clean it. Put something under it to catch the excess fluid. Get a wrench and unscrew the hose from the fitting. Put a wrench on the fitting and give it another turn tighter so it stops in the same position. Attach your hose, bleed it if possible and top off your hydraulic fluid. Check for leaks. I just did a similar repair to my right rear hydraulic connection it was leaking. It seems that over time the sprung stiffness of the hydraulic hose can turn the fitting. It's kind of common on hydraulic systems that see vibration. Good luck.
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Old 01-12-2020, 11:55 PM   #9
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HWH may supply replacement hoses at no charge since there was a recall on them. I got mine done that way some years ago on my 2001 35U.

If the hoses are too short and getting stressed then you may be best off replacing them with longer ones which a local Hose and Hydraulics supply should be able to do while you wait or at worst in 24 to 48 hours if HWY doesn't provide them under the recall.
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Old 01-13-2020, 12:05 AM   #10
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HWH may supply replacement hoses at no charge since there was a recall on them. I got mine done that way some years ago on my 2001 35U.

If the hoses are too short and getting stressed then you may be best off replacing them with longer ones which a local Hose and Hydraulics supply should be able to do while you wait or at worst in 24 to 48 hours if HWY doesn't provide them under the recall.
HWH wouldn't replace mine on my 2002 3U at no charge a couple of years ago. Be careful changing hose lengths. Some hoses are paired an have to be the exact length in order to balance the fluid flow.
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Old 01-13-2020, 04:49 AM   #11
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Does anyone know if the hydraulic systems still have pressure on them when they are not in use, in the stored position. Does it depend on the manufacturer of the different systems.
I ask because I also have a couple of weepy hoses that I would like to address.

Thanks
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Old 01-13-2020, 07:00 AM   #12
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I don't know about other systems but there is pressure in the HWH system. If your hoses are already leaking, the pressure will subside with time and slightly loosening the fitting should relieve any remaining pressure. Here's the "official" instructions that I received from azpete:

1. Removal- "Relieve the pressure on the room system by opening both of the room solenoids on the manifold. Refer to the manual for this procedure."

2. Replacement/Bleeding- "Just hook up both ends of the hose. tighten the end at the sync cylinder. Leave the other end fairly loose*. Touch the extend switch for a second or two. this will force the air put of the line. Tighten it up, run the room out cautiously until fully extended. This should do it." (BobC: I did this myself but it's easier with a helper to operate the slide switch. This is not unlike what I used to do when I bled the brake lines on my old VW)

*This is the end where it connects to the ram cylinder.

Also, here's what azpete had to say about a couple of other issues:

1. Stop Leak- "I would never recommend stop leak. it swells all the seals, not only the ones that leak, but also those that don't."

2. Extending Slides Partway- "It will not hurt to do it occasionally, but don't make a habit of it. You will cause the room to go out of sync. The best thing to do is extend the room, and hold the switch 5 seconds + or -, and you should not have a problem. holding the switch lets the piston inside the sync cylinder to center itself." (BobC: If you do extend it partway, extend it all the way and follow azpete's instructions before retracting it.)
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Old 01-14-2020, 08:36 AM   #13
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One caveat...pressurized hoses can be extremely dangerous, a pressurized leak or hole can cut or slice bare skin. With hydraulic oil being very toxic infection can and will set in with loss of limb not unheard of. Make sure your hydraulic system is not highly pressurized. Safety first.
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Old 01-14-2020, 05:29 PM   #14
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Take it to a hydraulic shop for repair. Might cost more but will be done right. Had equipment that used hydraulics to lift booms. If a fitting went bad or a small hole in a hose hyd. fluid would shoot ten feet in the air. Extreme pressure...........be safe.
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