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Old 06-06-2019, 11:37 AM   #41
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Yep,
It's the old saying: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". If your original sealant/caulk/adhesive is still intact and, appears to have a good seal and bite on the roof fiberglass, THEN LEAVE IT ALONE! It will do its job, until it doesn't. Just keep an eye on it. There is not a thing wrong with leaving it there, if it's still working.
Scott
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:39 AM   #42
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A follow up question

Agreed, I'll double check to make sure the old sealant is still solid to the coach and the leave it alone. I check it twice a year so I'll pay particular attention to that area.

I do have a related question about the reported leaks/rust around the windshield corners. I never seem to have much luck searching the forum for previous posts, but seems to me there was one - or several on the subject. I have removed the decorative panel from the driver's A post and see the two nuts to be removed to remove the exterior piece to check out the corner of the windshield.

Am I correct so far and if so, what's the next step? Problems to look out for etc.?
Thanks as always.
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Old 06-07-2019, 09:55 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Upinsmoke View Post
I do have a related question about the reported leaks/rust around the windshield corners. I never seem to have much luck searching the forum for previous posts, but seems to me there was one - or several on the subject. I have removed the decorative panel from the driver's A post and see the two nuts to be removed to remove the exterior piece to check out the corner of the windshield.

Am I correct so far and if so, what's the next step? Problems to look out for etc.?
Thanks as always.
In terms of searching, you'll have better results if you use the Google search box near the top of the page. in any case, even if you don't see any leaks, I recommend you put a strip of Eternabond tape across the top of your windshield, covering the top of the rubber moulding. There are many suggestions regarding using sealant under the moulding but I've found that the Eternabond was simpler and, at least for me, effective. In any case, it's not a one-way street. Try Eternabond and if you need to do more you can. If it works, you've saved yourself hours of messy work.

Here are the results of a Google box search on "windshield leak":

https://www.google.com/search?q=wind...w=1158&bih=543
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:10 AM   #44
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I need to repair a few places on my 2013. Ironically, it begins and ends where the dark gray color is

The winnebago part number is the same for the other trim on the sides too, which needs it pretty bad. Got the stuff from Amazon, but was the same price from Winnebago - man is it expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-09-2019, 02:28 AM   #45
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I thought I'd give an update on how things are progressing as I continued along the right roof radius yesterday. I made the decision to let sleeping dogs lie, meaning that if the old sealant was holding (no cracks and no place it was pulled away), I left it alone. However, I did clean it well with a damp slightly soaped rag and then followed it up with the denatured alcohol. I finished it up by running a small bead of caulk over the old and it honestly was the best looking part of the job. Now, as to whether it holds long term, we'll see. Fingers crossed.

I did run into a bit of an unexpected surprise. The PO had apparently hit a tree branch or something as the roof radius was pushed in a bit in one spot, and unfortunately there is a small crack in the fiberglass. See pic. It appears that he knew it, as not only was the original caulk there but additional caulk of some unknown type.
I had already gone back to the pull out the old stuff by this point so I just made sure to do an extra special good job of prep in this location, and then re-caulked the channel making sure to push the caulk way down. I also added a slight schmear to the crack. I'll have to decide whether to tape it or not.


I also did the rear end/corner cap and that worked out well. So now I have about one ten foot section left to do and it will require removing the old caulking, but then I should be wrapped up with most of what I'm going to attempt. I may try sealing around tail/marker lights - not sure yet.
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Old 06-09-2019, 09:03 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Upinsmoke View Post
I did run into a bit of an unexpected surprise. The PO had apparently hit a tree branch or something as the roof radius was pushed in a bit in one spot, and unfortunately there is a small crack in the fiberglass. See pic. It appears that he knew it, as not only was the original caulk there but additional caulk of some unknown type.
I had already gone back to the pull out the old stuff by this point so I just made sure to do an extra special good job of prep in this location, and then re-caulked the channel making sure to push the caulk way down. I also added a slight schmear to the crack. I'll have to decide whether to tape it or not.
First of all, thanks for keeping us updated. Many, if not most, posters don't, leaving us hanging as to whether or not our advice helped at all.

Fortunately the risk of water leaking in at this level is minimal so the main objective is to keep the crack from spreading. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, this is an ideal use for Eternabond.

I had a much more significant crack in mine that extended from the midpoint of the curve up onto the flat section of the roof. It was a significant leak hazard and subject to flexing. The PO had inadequately sealed it with caulking. I ended up repairing it by covering the crack and surrounding area with a piece of thin aluminum flashing, imbedded in sealant, screwed to the roof and covered with Eternabond. It's not pretty but sound and no one sees it but me.
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Old 06-10-2019, 02:13 AM   #47
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Bob C, sure, I try to keep the post updated and with pics if possible simply because most posters don't. Not posting how it worked out is akin IMO to not saying thank you.
Anyway, when it's finished up I'll post a summary.


I'm having the dealer do most all of the smaller stuff and especially where it can be seen. I, like you, am not too worried about the stuff on the roof as it can't be seen from the ground.

On a different subject, did you see my post about the rear bumper bolts "pulling though"? I was surprised I hadn't received any comments on it like WTH? If you care to track it down, let me know what you think.

Thanks
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:24 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Upinsmoke View Post
Bob C, sure, I try to keep the post updated and with pics if possible simply because most posters don't. Not posting how it worked out is akin IMO to not saying thank you.
Anyway, when it's finished up I'll post a summary.


I'm having the dealer do most all of the smaller stuff and especially where it can be seen. I, like you, am not too worried about the stuff on the roof as it can't be seen from the ground.

On a different subject, did you see my post about the rear bumper bolts "pulling though"? I was surprised I hadn't received any comments on it like WTH? If you care to track it down, let me know what you think.

Thanks
I just responded on your other thread: http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...gh-354681.html
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