Rear Bumper Fell Off!!

gjgrosser · 09-30-2019, 09:10 AM

On a recent trip through Georgia, my rear bumper fell off on the interstate. Luckily it didn't hit anyone, and there is only minor damage; scratches, some nicks, etc., but in overall great shape.

I was able to stop in time and pick it up, but now I need to figure out how to mount my bumper back onto my coach. It looks like it was originally mounted onto the metal brackets with epoxy or something like that but I'm not really sure.

I know I'll have to sand down where the existing putty/epoxy is and prep the surface, but what should I use to re-mount the bumper?

I called an RV repair place locally who suggested using epoxy with colloidal filler. Is this correct? I've also been told to use fiberglass, J-B Weld or to just bolt it back on.

I'm not interested in bolting it back on as I feel this would be a lot more work and I'm not sure what to use to mount it back on. Any ideas?

RD Eagle · 09-30-2019, 10:52 AM

WOW sorry that happened. will have to check mine and make sure it is on tight. Glad you were able to retrieve it. I will be interested in finding out what is recommended, and how to do it.

gjgrosser · 09-30-2019, 11:38 AM

Yeah, out of all of the things that go through your mind and what could fail on a trip, the bumper flying off on the interstate is not one of them. lol. I actually had a bracket on the side cover that goes over the water heater fall off on the same trip as well... This is an easy fix though, just have to do it. Interesting trip btw.

Rear bumper fell off
Side water heater cover latch fell off
Rear tail lights developed a ground short
Left rear leveling jack bent and failed
Right front wheel panel started coming loose
& FMCA Mobile Mechanic apparently doesn't cover us...

The joys of RVing!

dickb46 · 10-09-2019, 04:17 PM

I use Gorilla Glue. I haven't had any panels fall all the way off yet but a lot of items that came loose. It seems like WBGO bonds the fiberglass panels to glossy painted steel tubing. So I scuff/remove a lot of the paint first.
Gorilla Glue is really easy to use just spread it on one side, wipe the other side with a damp cloth and clamp. I use it to rebond brackets that were coming loose from the fiberglass also.

dick

earnerj · 10-09-2019, 04:29 PM

I had a similar problem with a 2007 Journey. I ground/ sanded all the places where the bumper attached on the motorhome. On the bumper I circled the old epoxy with a marker. I used a sharp chisel to remove the old epoxy and then sanded where the old epoxy was. I went to West Marine and used a West System two part epoxy called six10. I got about two dozen cable ties about 12" to 18". I filled the outlined spots that circled the old epoxy spots with a good amount of six10 I think about 10 spots I think a little over one tube. I placed the bumper back and secured it with the cable ties. I left it over night. I also used two ratchet straps you can adjust the bumper position with the cable ties when you get it where you want it you tighten them.

C Zimm · 10-09-2019, 04:35 PM

Winnebago does a lot of things right and a few things dumb. Attachments is one of the dumb things. I’ve had way to many items come loose or fall off. Roof attachment is probably the dumbest of all. Why did I have to inspect and reseal every six months (as required) when I spent $250k on a new coach?
The new roof is now riveted along the entire length. It will never come loose again.
After many years of proper maintenance it became dislodged and ripped off. I’m sure I’ll get hammered over this entry but I am finally set free.

thataway4 · 10-09-2019, 05:27 PM

After you spot "welded" the fiberglass bumper to the steel frame, the most rugged method of attaching the bumper, would be to use some 2" wide fiberglass tape. Rough up the back of the bumper, where you were epoxying it to the frames. Take about 6" of fiberglass tape for each steel upright, and use epoxy too wet out the back side of the bumper, and then put one end of the glass tape on one side of the steel frame, and mold it a around the steel upright and back to the fiberglass bumper on the other side. Wet That is a far more permanent "fix" than just tacking it on with epoxy. (even the 6 10 or Gleflex epoxy). paint another coat of epoxy on the fiberglass cloth before it has gone off (hardened). Epoxy once it hardens has an "Amine blush" on the surface of the repair. That should be washed off before any other material is laid on top of the repair.

gewilli · 10-09-2019, 06:07 PM

If you go to a auto paint supplier, 3M makes a 2 part epoxy that is for metal to fiberglass. Winnie uses a similar product, but often not enough of it. . I have used it to re attach body parts on my 05 meridian.

Clean and prep both surfaces first.

71_340 · 10-09-2019, 07:23 PM

Besides using epoxy I would use a few stainless steel or chromed bumper bolts and it will never come off again. That is what I would do; but then, my RV is 13 years old and by no means cosmetically perfect.

NeilV · 10-10-2019, 12:02 AM

People telling you to use fiberglass are usually just generically telling you to use epoxy resin.

Usually you will either bed these back using structural epoxy after cleaning the area with acetone, roughing up the surface with 80 or 60 grit sandpaper and then just before applying the epoxy cleaning the area again with acetone or use epoxy resin and cover over the tabs encapsulating them with fiberglass mat.

Any time you clean up fiberglass be it polyester or epoxy based if you do not do your repair work in less than 15 minutes you need to clean it with acetone to remove any oxidation or blush that will occur in that short of a time span before applying structural epoxy or resin and mat.

JB Weld in the small tubes is fine for a few small repairs however you may be better off getting the structural epoxy or reinforced epoxy from a commercial vendor or marine supply so you will not be dealing with little tubes.

I've been learning a lot about this working with a master boat builder/repairman for the past 1 1/2 years.

Tireman9 · 10-10-2019, 09:30 AM

Looks like the "bumper" is just cosmetic and isn't intended to protect the RV from anything other than the splash of mud. IMO having a large piece fall off would certainly be a safety issue. If not for your vehicle then for any vehicle following you. This should be reported to NHTSA along with your VIN and a picture.

L_Buckaroo · 10-10-2019, 08:47 PM

I have a 2007 Journey also, mine fell off, was backing up, had a guide, but someone not watching, light bump on a post, and the hold bottom fell off. body shop near where I live did it for $150

NeilV · 10-10-2019, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Looks like the "bumper" is just cosmetic and isn't intended to protect the RV from anything other than the splash of mud. IMO having a large piece fall off would certainly be a safety issue. If not for your vehicle then for any vehicle following you. This should be reported to NHTSA along with your VIN and a picture.

That looks to be the old style coach made in the mid to late 1990's so it may be a tad late for that. Usually old epoxy and resin parts of that era need to be inspected regularly for damage especially the bumper covers and front facias/hoods basically all the areas that can suffer impact or get hooked/dragged on uneven ground, swinging into tight sites, etc.

BTW: Many of those hooked over the steel at the top and had screws underneath and coming from the opening of the basement doors on either side of the coach to help hold them in place. Service techs have been pretty notorious for not putting all the screws back when doing repairs in the back of coaches. The newer coaches made after these had an aluminum main rear bumper that slid over brackets screwed into the Pilon back wall of the coach with a fiberglass bumperette on either side of it also screwed into the Pilon with the screws behind the lamp housings and coming in from the generator door and Basement Air panels openings.

ExBuckeye · 10-12-2019, 04:04 PM

What brand and model of coach is it? If it was glued on it probably isn't a bumper, just a big piece of trim.

L_Buckaroo · 10-12-2019, 07:30 PM

2007 Journey 36G, yes it's not a bumper, it's made of fiberglass and the clips were glued on.

Jim_HiTek · 10-15-2019, 11:05 PM

Common problem with Winnebago. Mine began in the rear of the RV on the engine cover and just became loose. Then the rear 'bumper' grill gave way, but didn't fall off like the OPs. I noticed it, did many hours of research and decided it was rather silly to use the same method Winnie did and some owners did because it obviously didn't last as long as I would want...which is forever. Plus it was soooo much work! So I determined to come up with my own method.

And that turned out to be just simple flathead 6-32 stainless steel screws and lock nuts. I used a small 3/8" Li-Ion battery drill and drilled from the back of the metal brackets through the fiberglass. Did that in several places in the rear of the RV on the 'bumper' and on the hinged engine door. Then on the surface of the fiberglass just a countersink so the screw is flush with the surface. That's it, and it's been working without any changes for years now except when I removed that bumper for better access to the heat pump I went ahead and added two more screws. That's the rear of the RV. The year after I discovered those brackets loosening on the back of the RV, the front started letting go too.

Again, just added several 6-32" SS screws and all is good. They are small enough that you don't even notice them unless you look hard, and that's without dabbing them with paint. I might add a few more in future but so far, it's not necessary.

So my suggestion is screws only, don't bother with glue.

Here's my articles, there's no ads or anything: Body Work - Rear and Body Work - Front

JoeSR · 10-30-2019, 08:15 AM

About 3+ years ago the lower portion of my front fenders broke free.

I used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 to stick them back on. I remove as much of Winnebago's adhesive as possible. Then I drilled some holes into the steel bracket. I used enough of the adhesive for it to flow around the steel bracket and thru the holes that I had drilled when the fender was clamped to the bracket.