Journey 2002 34D HWH Hydraulics

GAGypsy · 10-05-2014, 08:04 PM

Have a 2002 Journey with two slides. Have replaced the pump motor aprox six months ago. Bought brand new motor, relays and switch from HWH and had dealer put it on. Now I am stuck again in a campground and can't retract my slides. Haven't had time to trouble shoot yet. I would like to know if other Journey owners are having problems with the HWH leveler and slide systems installed on their Journeys and what they did to correct problem.

skigramp · 10-05-2014, 09:48 PM

A suggestion:
1) Start your engine
2) Push the retract button for the front slide (I think it will start)
3) Have someone push the retract button for the back slide AFTER the front slide is moving.

I used to have a back slide would not retract problem until I installed a Trick-L-start ... the problem seldom occurs anymore ... I think it comes from your chassis battery is not fully charged after sitting in a campground and one of the solenoids needs more voltage than you have ... at least that is my guess ...

I am not a licensed tech ... just an old codger that tries to find "work arounds"

GAGypsy · 10-05-2014, 10:04 PM

The pump motor is not running at all nothing moves!

skigramp · 10-06-2014, 02:28 PM

I hope you have Coach-Net or Good Sam ...

Sorry my work around did nothing for you

GAGypsy · 10-06-2014, 02:50 PM

Thanks for the tips. Concentrated on chassis battery and determined that it was more than 50% discharged. Even with the motor running, it did not have enough current to work hydraulic pump. As you indicated when control detected low voltage, it shut everything down. At campground with AC shore line pluged in, chassis battery's where brought back to a fuller charge. Thank the Lord, everything now works! When I get back home, the two chassis battery's which maybe be more than five years old, will be replaced. I am wondering if the $120 difference between acid and AGM battery's is worth it? Decca has deep cycle group 31 battery's for $168 and AGM for $275.

2NewRVers · 10-06-2014, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GAGypsy

Thanks for the tips. Concentrated on chassis battery and determined that it was more than 50% discharged. Even with the motor running, it did not have enough current to work hydraulic pump. As you indicated when control detected low voltage, it shut everything down. At campground with AC shore line pluged in, chassis battery's where brought back to a fuller charge. Thank the Lord, everything now works! When I get back home, the two chassis battery's which maybe be more than five years old, will be replaced. I am wondering if the $120 difference between acid and AGM battery's is worth it? Decca has deep cycle group 31 battery's for $168 and AGM for $275.

Glad to hear you figured it out. My 2 cents is just that. I would definitely buy the AGM sealed batteries over the wet cell. My wife and I own 6 vehicles and ALL of them have sealed batteries. The Motorhome has AGM glass mat batteries . You never need to worry about them spilling or drying out. Good luck and safe travels.

skigramp · 10-06-2014, 08:15 PM

Coach batteries are deep cycle ... in general they provide low amperage energy over longer periods of time. When your coach was new it came with three deep cycle batteries in parallel

Chassis batteries are not deep cycle ... they need to provide short bursts of high amperage energy. When it was delivered your coach had two automotive batteries in parallel.

I suggest you install a Trick-L-Start unit ... it keeps both battery banks charged while you connected to shore power. The directions are easy to follow ... it took me longer to remove the cover from the fuse box than it did to install the unit.

FIRE UP · 10-06-2014, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skigramp

Coach batteries are deep cycle ... in general they provide low amperage energy over longer periods of time. When your coach was new it came with three deep cycle batteries in parallel

Chassis batteries are not deep cycle ... they need to provide short bursts of high amperage energy. When it was delivered your coach had two automotive batteries in parallel.

I suggest you install a Trick-L-Start unit ... it keeps both battery banks charged while you connected to shore power. The directions are easy to follow ... it took me longer to remove the cover from the fuse box than it did to install the unit.

skigramp,
A question for you. Isn't the "Trik-L-Start" primarily for keeping the CHASSIS batteries charged? As I understand it's purpose, it "siphons" off, some of the charging that, is headed towards the "COACH" batteries and, applies it to the chassis batteries. It will do this if, it detects a 1/2 volt difference between the chassis batteries and the coach batteries. Then, it will allow a maximum of 5 amps to be applied to the chassis batteries.

But, the charge that's being applied to the "HOUSE or, COACH' batteries, is derived from the on board INVERTER/CHARGER, correct? The primary reason that the "Trik-L-Start" and it's newer brother, the "Amp-L-Start" were designed was because Winne and Itasca had no means of charging the chassis batteries when the coaches were plugged into shore power.

The coach batteries were being charged by the inverter/charger but, that charge, never made it to the chassis batteries. So, many folks were experiencing dead chassis batteries even though, the coach was plugged in during storage or, at home etc. This continued to happen all the way to around, late '05 or, early '06 when, Winne and Itasca started installing the "Trik-L-Start" right from the factory.

So, to the OP, if you're experiencing low "chassis" batteries, primarily due to the fact that, (if your coach and, specifically the chassis battery situation) has not been modified, then you have options to correct your situation. But, to verify that you do or, do not have "chassis" battery charging while connected to shore power or, generator running, you need to perform a simple test. You need to see what the status/voltage of your chassis batteries are, prior to plugging into shore power and then, check the voltage again, AFTER plugging into shore power.

If, there's significant difference before and after, then you have the options to correct this situation. And then, if you correct it, you should, I say "should" NOT have any slide operation problems after. Now, all this is assuming your problems are due to low battery voltage. And, keep in mind that, both battery banks will charge, from the alternator but, that charging system disconnects itself when the engine is shut down. I hope some of this info helps and, is accurate for you.
Scott

skigramp · 10-07-2014, 12:05 PM

FireUp ... I do not know the exact thresholds for triggering the connection between the battery banks but you have the concept correct.

Generally when I am parked ... I arrive with both battery banks being fully charged so all the Trick-L-Start has to do is maintain the status.

I am able to plug into a 20 amp outlet where I store Ernie the Journey so both battery banks are fully charged when I crank up and hit the road.

Before I installed the Trick-L-Start I would connect a jumper cable between my two battery banks about once a week for a couple of hours when I was parked for long periods ... I don't have to do that anymore ...

Starsekr · 10-07-2014, 02:01 PM

GAGypsy, glad you got moving again. Even with chassis batteries at 1/2 charge your system should work when the engine is running. Check the ground from the HWH to chassis, the wires for corrosion, and the + lead to the solenoid and solid to pump for a good connection. On my Winnie Adventurer all of these are exposed when the slide is out, and just waiting for trouble.