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01-07-2019, 03:01 PM
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#1
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 15
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How to replace the sliding rear bathroom door...
We have a 2018 35F Vista. The track for the sliding door has dropped from the ceiling. I tried re-screwing the 2 screws that dropped out, but.. there is nothing to attach to. What is above the door/track? Could a cross beam have shifted? Or, are there inserts? Any ideas or directions on solutions would be welcome.
Thanks
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P & C
2018 Vista LX 35F
2002 Jeep Wrangler
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01-07-2019, 06:40 PM
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#2
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Deming, NM
Posts: 582
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You might be able to push some plastic screw anchors in the holes then reuse the original screws to put the track back up. That would be the easiest potential fix.
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2016 Minnie Winnie 27Q on a 2015 Ford E450 chassis. Retired U.S. Air Force. Lived in Anchorage, Alaska for 30+ years. Now Living in Deming, NM.
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01-07-2019, 06:59 PM
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#3
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Manhattan, Kansas USA
Posts: 1,315
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I had my bedroom sliding door track fall off the ceiling on my Vista 27N a few months after I bought it. I did a couple of things to resolve it.
I bought larger size #10 screws at a hardware store, and I drilled out the existing holes in the track to accomodate the larger screws. The larger screws would "bite" into the stripped out smaller holes in the ceiling. Plastic screw anchors don't really work because the ceiling panel is only 3/16" thick, they just don't expand enough in that thin 3/16" space to hold.
I drilled about 6 new holes in the track and used the old #8 screws in the new holes so now I have twice as many fasteners holding up the track. Has stayed up for 3 years since I did the fix.
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Randy - Manhattan, Kansas
2015 Vista 27N
2020 Ford Escape Hybrid
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01-07-2019, 08:54 PM
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#4
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 531
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Powercat identifies the real issue, we are driving screws into >1/4" ply.
We have been successful using 1/8" or 3/16" molly bolts. As they tighten, the barrel collapses, giving them about a 1" diameter grip footprint.
1/8" mollys will usually slide right into a stripped #8 screwhole, no drilling required.
Fair Winds and Following Seas
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Terry & Rosalina
2007 Winnebago Journey 34SE
Retired Navy Mustang & Navy Wife
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01-08-2019, 08:57 AM
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#5
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Apache Junction, AZ
Posts: 1,244
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The only real problem using Mollies is that the bolts are effectively in for the duration. Because they expand they can not be removed without creating a large hole which then becomes difficult to disguise. I am not suggesting that they are not a good alternative, but once in they are pretty much in permanently.
I am getting ready to add a mirror to the bathroom door in our 2018.5 23T Fuse and the reason I am not using Mollies is that I worry that my wife will decide she no longer wants the mirror on the door and then I will be left with 4 metal circles on the outside of the door where the Mollies would be.
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01-08-2019, 03:16 PM
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#6
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 531
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You are correct, Mike. They can be a bear to get out and should be used judiciously. The door track is a good application, your mirror may not be.
Our rig has 8ft x 2ft of mirror above the headboard, plus a couple more in the main room. All held on by mirror mastic from the factory. Hmmmm. Belt and suspenders. I installed mirror clips, too. But of course that means #6 screw holes.
I have found that mollies can be removed by backing the bolt out until just a thread or two is engaged, then tapping (not hammering!) on the bolt head. The mollie will often straighten out enough to worry it out of the hole. But they have a mind of their own. At a minimum, it will straighten out enough to get a pair of dykes behind the shoulder and snip it off, then let the remainder stay in the wall/ceiling.
Wouldn't these repairs/upgrades be easier if we didn't have to anticipate our wives' next thought?
Fair Winds and Following Seas
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Terry & Rosalina
2007 Winnebago Journey 34SE
Retired Navy Mustang & Navy Wife
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01-08-2019, 05:21 PM
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#7
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Apache Junction, AZ
Posts: 1,244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldchinahand
I have found that mollies can be removed by backing the bolt out until just a thread or two is engaged, then tapping (not hammering!) on the bolt head. The mollie will often straighten out enough to worry it out of the hole. But they have a mind of their own. At a minimum, it will straighten out enough to get a pair of dykes behind the shoulder and snip it off, then let the remainder stay in the wall/ceiling.
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I have never been able to get a Molly out of the wall without creating as big a hole as the outside support that prevents it from being pulled into the wall, but then I have never tried what you are suggesting. That is very clever and I will definitely try it the next time I have to remove a Molly although, to be honest, I mostly stopped using them because of the damage caused by removing them.
This certainly changes the equation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldchinahand
Wouldn't these repairs/upgrades be easier if we didn't have to anticipate our wives' next thought?
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01-10-2019, 08:32 AM
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#8
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 15
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Thanks for the replies and ideas. We're back on the road, so when I get a chance to fool with it again, I will certainly use your thoughts and suggestions. I'll let you know how it works out...
Thanks again
__________________
P & C
2018 Vista LX 35F
2002 Jeep Wrangler
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01-10-2019, 05:36 PM
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#9
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Deming, NM
Posts: 582
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When I read the original post, for some reason my mental image went to the bedroom draw curtain in our Minnie Winnie. My suggestion of using plastic screw anchors was based on the idea that since the anchor would be holding relatively little weight, the plastic anchors should work fine. Now that I've seen that the issue is actually with your bathroom door, I wholeheartedly agree with using other more substantial anchors. But another thing to bear in mind is if there is no solid wood/plywood behind the thin plywood ceiling panel, those better anchors are still only being held by that 1/4" plywood.
Backing the mounting area with plywood is certainly a good - if not the best - method of fixing this situation, but finding a way to access the area is probably going to be difficult if not impossible. I did that for the inside of the cabinetry next to the entryway where I wanted to mount a extra handrail and I didn't feel even the best screw anchors would be adequate. Worked great.
__________________
2016 Minnie Winnie 27Q on a 2015 Ford E450 chassis. Retired U.S. Air Force. Lived in Anchorage, Alaska for 30+ years. Now Living in Deming, NM.
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01-11-2019, 03:30 AM
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#10
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: bel air, md
Posts: 143
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Sliding door
After using larger screws, I glued a sliding block under our sliding bedroom door to take some of the bounce off of it when on the road. That bouncing really must pull on the screws.
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09 Adventurer towing 18 Malibu
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01-13-2019, 05:32 PM
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#11
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 15
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A great idea billy b. We are going to end up in Iowa sometime in March (after snows are gone!!), and I am going to let our friends at Winnebago figure it out, and to assure me that the fix will last. We have a few other fixes that CW was unable to figure out. We are planning an Alaska trip this summer, and I'd like to have a rig that works as well as it can - as we anticipated it to be when we bought it a year ago... I know -- it's a lot to ask, but....
Thanks again to all...
__________________
P & C
2018 Vista LX 35F
2002 Jeep Wrangler
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