Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-07-2013, 01:55 PM   #1
Winnebago Owner
 
phinneyj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 75
Front Gen Access Hinge Seperation

I have the 2004 Journey 39K. In the picture the arrow is pointing to the Generator access door. I had the left hinge separate from the body. It appears that it is held on by some sort of mastic or glue. There are no screws or bolts holding it on. I have noticed the tell tale droop on one side of the door on another Journey.

Question I have is if anyone else has had the issue and if so what was the fix and how much did it cost?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Front View.jpg
Views:	191
Size:	95.8 KB
ID:	51512  
__________________
Jeff/Diane, Retired Fire Capt. I.Y.A.O.Y.A.S.
2004 Winnebago Journey 39K on a Workhorse chassis w/ ISC 330, Allison 3000
2013 Honda Fit with Roadmaster Baseplate, BrakeMaster and All Terrain Falcon Tow Bar.
GS#819681685 FMCA#F437136 SKP#112720
phinneyj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 02:12 PM   #2
Winnie-Wise
 
1ciderdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 478
I had mine come lose so I drilled a couple of holes in the metal and used stainless bolts & nuts to hold the brackets. I believe doorguy used J-B Weld on his. seems some of the adhesive they used was not properly mixed or not enough used.
__________________
Bob, Sandi & Marmaduke the Big Pug
SW OREGON 2004 Journey 39K, 330 Cat
If towing: a 2006 Mini Cooper or 1995 Wrangler
1ciderdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 02:38 PM   #3
Winnebago Owner
 
phinneyj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 75
Do you have any pictures on your repair?

Is there a problem with the fiberglass failing or cracking at the points where you attached the bolts?
__________________
Jeff/Diane, Retired Fire Capt. I.Y.A.O.Y.A.S.
2004 Winnebago Journey 39K on a Workhorse chassis w/ ISC 330, Allison 3000
2013 Honda Fit with Roadmaster Baseplate, BrakeMaster and All Terrain Falcon Tow Bar.
GS#819681685 FMCA#F437136 SKP#112720
phinneyj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 02:56 PM   #4
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 38
Winnebago uses a green epoxy goop from 3M called Scotch Weld. You will find it in their online catalogue p 181.

http://www.lichtsinn.com/PDFs/Winnebago_Catalog.pdf
__________________
Stan Birch
1999 Winnebago Adventurer 32T Ford V-10
Stan.Birch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 05:16 PM   #5
Winnie-Wise
 
Sammie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 489
phinneyj, Like you and many others, I have had the front access panel separate from the hinge bracket assembly. Winnebago probably used a good bonding adhesive, but they failed to sand the powder coated metal portion of the bracket where it is bonded to the fiberglass panel. If you will notice on the inside of the panel, the bonding adhesive is still sticking great to the fiberglass but just not to the metal.

When mine came loose, I too was looking for an easy fix so I just drilled four holes in through the panel into the metal frame on the inside and secured it with 3/16 inch aluminum 1/2 inch long pop rivets. I then touched them up with the touch up paint that came with my coach when I bought it. ( See the pictures below ). They have been in there for about 4 years now without any problems.

Now for the rear engine/radiator access panel. It came loose on the way home from San Diego this summer and when I arrived at my house was just barely hanging on. I removed it and the hinge bracket completely and decided to use JB Weld in the places where it was originally bonded. I gently pried the metal bracket loose from the fiberglass panel and sanded down all of the bonding areas of the metal to "bare metal". I then sanded and cleaned with lacquer thinner all the bonded areas on the fiberglass. I mixed the JB Weld and applied it to all the areas where it had bonding adhesive before and then C clamped everything in place to sit overnight.

It appears to me that the JB Weld method is the way to go as it feels very strong and secure. But, if you want an easy fix and aren't really critical about the way it looks, the pop rivet or even stainless steel bolts will work just fine.








Good Luck, Sammie
__________________
2015 Tiffin Bus 37AP
2016 Ford Explorer
"A Job Begun is Half Done"
Sammie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 05:52 PM   #6
Winnie-Wise
 
doorguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 258
Mine didn't separate from the cover itself (yet), but the hinge separated from the cap on the inside. I, too, used pop rivets and JB Weld on the inner lip of the opening to the mounting bracket. It doesn't show unless the cover is open. If I have the problem FIREUP did, I will probably go that route. My repair was in 2010 and holding strong. I've used JB Weld on the headlight brackets and also the rear radiator cover and it works great so far. The problem with JB Weld, is that it is will droop and drip until it sets up, so be VERY careful you don't have anything in its way when it drips; it will be impossible to get off. When I did mine, it was a hot day, the sun facing the front and I got some on my shirt and rubbed against the front cap and didn't notice it till the next day. Had to have the front cap repainted........
__________________
Barry & Sue Miller("extended" RVer's, 6 mos + per/year) combined trips.
04 Journey 39K, C-7, 330 hp, towing:19 GMC Canyon 4WD or 2013 Ford Edge AWD, Aero 5050XL, ReadyBrake.
doorguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 07:07 PM   #7
Winnebago Owner
 
phinneyj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by doorguy View Post
Mine didn't separate from the cover itself (yet), but the hinge separated from the cap on the inside........
That is what mine did only on the drivers side. I liked the Rivet idea so much that I just ordered the rivet gun and asst. rivets. JB Weld will go in my tool kit also.

Thanks,
__________________
Jeff/Diane, Retired Fire Capt. I.Y.A.O.Y.A.S.
2004 Winnebago Journey 39K on a Workhorse chassis w/ ISC 330, Allison 3000
2013 Honda Fit with Roadmaster Baseplate, BrakeMaster and All Terrain Falcon Tow Bar.
GS#819681685 FMCA#F437136 SKP#112720
phinneyj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2013, 05:58 AM   #8
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 181
Stainless Steel button head screws, washers, and nuts on both the front cover and the rear cap and door. Peace of mind is great.
charles tuit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2013, 11:07 AM   #9
Winnebago Owner
 
Kelm130's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Oak Ridge, TN
Posts: 211
X2 on the stainless steel button head bolts. I used some on my rear panel and they look like they almost belong there. Here is a good site to get some odd sizes that the big box stores don't carry.
Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and Fasteners online
__________________
2019 Minnie Winnie 22M | 2011 Honda CRV "Serenity Now!"
Kelm130 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2013, 11:29 PM   #10
Winnebago Owner
 
phinneyj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 75
Follow up. I ordered the Stanley Swivel Head Rivet gun. Two quick holes, two stainless steel rivets later the door works as advertised. Now to set two rivets on the other side. Don't want the front wheel weight to be out of balance. :grin:
__________________
Jeff/Diane, Retired Fire Capt. I.Y.A.O.Y.A.S.
2004 Winnebago Journey 39K on a Workhorse chassis w/ ISC 330, Allison 3000
2013 Honda Fit with Roadmaster Baseplate, BrakeMaster and All Terrain Falcon Tow Bar.
GS#819681685 FMCA#F437136 SKP#112720
phinneyj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2013, 12:05 AM   #11
Winnebago Camper
 
gruelens's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 16
For an incredibly strong bond I use 3M 5200. Do not use the quick cure version as it does not get as strong. Caveat is it takes 7 days to cure under ideal conditions, longer if cold or humid. However, once cured, it will hold!
__________________
George R. - Fulltiming since January '03
2007 Newmar Mountain Aire 3991
2012 Chevy Malibu LT1
gruelens is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2013, 06:21 PM   #12
Winnebago Owner
 
phinneyj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by gruelens View Post
For an incredibly strong bond I use 3M 5200. Do not use the quick cure version as it does not get as strong. Caveat is it takes 7 days to cure under ideal conditions, longer if cold or humid. However, once cured, it will hold!
Thanks, I used the rivet idea. The process of prepping the surfaces and using an epoxy or other chemical bound just did not appeal to me. The rivets are simple, fast and effective without having to do all the prep work to get a good metal to fiberglass bound.
__________________
Jeff/Diane, Retired Fire Capt. I.Y.A.O.Y.A.S.
2004 Winnebago Journey 39K on a Workhorse chassis w/ ISC 330, Allison 3000
2013 Honda Fit with Roadmaster Baseplate, BrakeMaster and All Terrain Falcon Tow Bar.
GS#819681685 FMCA#F437136 SKP#112720
phinneyj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2013, 06:34 PM   #13
KIX
Winnebago Master
 
KIX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Posts: 587
Quote:
Originally Posted by gruelens View Post
For an incredibly strong bond I use 3M 5200. Do not use the quick cure version as it does not get as strong. Caveat is it takes 7 days to cure under ideal conditions, longer if cold or humid. However, once cured, it will hold!
3M 5200.......fantastic product for bonding almost anything
__________________
KIX
'02 Ultimate Advantage 40J Spartan MM - Cummins ISC
KIX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2013, 06:39 PM   #14
Winnie-Wise
 
1ciderdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 478
We used 5200 when we lived on a boat and only used it when we knew the part would never ever never ever need to be removed. Mighty tough stuff!
__________________
Bob, Sandi & Marmaduke the Big Pug
SW OREGON 2004 Journey 39K, 330 Cat
If towing: a 2006 Mini Cooper or 1995 Wrangler
1ciderdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2015 Journey 36M, seperation of interior wall KJMac69 Winnebago Class A Motorhomes 9 02-28-2017 06:01 AM
Please help - wall seperation on 05 Itasca Sunova 34a always late. Winnebago Class A Motorhomes 6 04-28-2016 12:37 PM
Securing front door open, vulnerable to being sprung open past hinge limits. Gary CA General Maintenance and Repair 9 09-13-2005 02:02 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.