For all Intents and purposes

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

That’s exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for helping me. What I was trying to do is figure out if I can leave my RV parked in front of my house on Shoreline power all year and whether or not I should have the coach disconnect switch on or off. Thanks to your help, I was able to read the manuals and realized that if I’m connected to Shoreline power at home the disconnect switch to the coach should be ON to allow the system to do it’s job and maintain the batteries.

Thank you for taking the time to research that and get back to me. It gave me an idea in which direction to go.

Thanks to your help I was able to do a few tests today and found out that I am correct in that the only way the batteries will charge when connected to the shoreline power batteries is if the main disconnect switches in the On position. If you’re not on Shoreline power this is when one should be disconnected with the main switch in the OFF opposition, so as not to drain the coach batteries.

After draining the coach batteries last evening overnight, I checked the battery level and it was just over 50% this morning.

And when I plugged in to shoreline power with the main coach disconnect switch in the OFF position. The fan in the charger did not start.

When I came home from work, I checked the battery levels, but in order to do so, I had to turn the coach main switch on, as the indicator panel was dark.

The battery levels had only come up to around 65%, even though the coach was plugged in all day—with the main switch in the OFF position. That to me is just normal rebounding of a battery on its own.

When I turned on the main switch, the fan came on and I believe that is when it began charging.

So apparently, the main switch must be in the ON position when on shoreline power in order for the built-in battery monitoring and tender to do its job.

Now not all RV’s are wired the same, but this is how our Intent responded.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Is that the area above the generator that you speak of? If so, perhaps that could be where the warm air is coming from, assuming that you are running it. We have a weather station in our rig that measures, we’ll, everything, but most important to you would be inside humidity.

Actually it's the overhang slide area. Left side.
I took the day off from Search-Rescue, to rest my weary bones and get some stuff caught up on. Also found time to explore that area under the bed. I believe the problem is that without inside air circulation, it get too cold because it is hanging outside the coach. I opened that area up, and insulated the floor. Dresses the wires, and I now have more under-bed storage area. I will include pictures when time permits.

Thanks for your continued support in figuring out these coaches.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Actually it's the overhang slide area. Left side.
I took the day off from Search-Rescue, to rest my weary bones and get some stuff caught up on. Also found time to explore that area under the bed. I believe the problem is that without inside air circulation, it get too cold because it is hanging outside the coach. I opened that area up, and insulated the floor. Dresses the wires, and I now have more under-bed storage area. I will include pictures when time permits.

Thanks for your continued support in figuring out these coaches.

OUr Mattress was getting moist and even mildew in the upper Left quadrant. Found that it was caused of the blocked off space under the bed. Engineers thought they would spend more money blocking off this space, because of wires. These wires could have been dressed properly and opened this area up for more storage. But they decided to spend more money instead of common sense design.
Look at pic's carefully. 1st pic is the original engineering and 2nd pic is of my engineering and thus opening up that area for more storage, and eradicating the moisture problem. As you will notice, the wires are dressed properly, so as not to present a problem using this area for storage. (what's not shown, is that I added a vertical 1x2 board where the wires go vertical, thus prodecting them) I did, as you can see, added plain old window insulation to the floor. Actually you can see I added it to the front Left and Right side of the bed as well.

Take a look at your mattress. If you camp at temps in the 20's/30's as we do in Arizona, what do you see and find?

Could you also use more under-bed storage?

Blessing's and hope this is of help.

Denny and Barb.

[YGoHom]

What a waste of space! That's the biggest. Then the area under the closet (your hamper), then behind the bedroom TV. Many RV's are made so that the TV flips up to reveal storage behind it. I actually have a folding chair in that space!

I just bought some rolls of Reflectix to line the rest of my windows for our upcoming trip to Oregon. I may use some under the bed too. Thanks for the idea!

As for the refrigerator latches...I just don't have time until next year, closer to February. Sorry

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

What a waste of space! That's the biggest. Then the area under the closet (your hamper), then behind the bedroom TV. Many RV's are made so that the TV flips up to reveal storage behind it. I actually have a folding chair in that space!

I just bought some rolls of Reflectix to line the rest of my windows for our upcoming trip to Oregon. I may use some under the bed too. Thanks for the idea!

As for the refrigerator latches...I just don't have time until next year, closer to February. Sorry

I'm going to try doing the same with bedroom TV. Thanks for reminding me.

No worry about refrig latches. When u have time is understandable in everyone's life. After retirement I found how little time I have. go figure!

[Wyatt]

Which Type and brand of Batteries came in your Intent? Wondering if they’re consistent...Thanks!

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Which Type and brand of Batteries came in your Intent? Wondering if they’re consistent...Thanks!

Mine came with 660cca Napa batteries. I just got a load tester yesterday, and tested them. They are very good yet after almost two years. Tested my other two AGM's they are very good also.

Just a note... If I was going to add two more batteries, I would add them in the Dump compartment. Why.... The cabling would be very short, and the RED and Black for the Generator is right there. Would beef up the floor a bit with some quarter inch plywood, as what dealer did for me for my AGM's.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

What a waste of space! That's the biggest. Then the area under the closet (your hamper), then behind the bedroom TV. Many RV's are made so that the TV flips up to reveal storage behind it. I actually have a folding chair in that space!

I cannot seem to find your post about the storage behind bedroom TV... Can you give me the post # ... Thanks

[Wyatt]

Thank you Denny, great idea. Wonder how much weight that area could handle. The AGM battery I’m looking at weighs 156#. Are the Napa batteries that came with your Intent AGM also? Thanks!

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Thank you Denny, great idea. Wonder how much weight that area could handle. The AGM battery I’m looking at weighs 156#. Are the Napa batteries that came with your Intent AGM also? Thanks!

Wyatt... The 1st question is that if you reinforce the floor of that compartment, yes it will handle your AGM's. That compartment is no different than the one to the left of your now -- battery compartment... where my dealer placed the 1/4" plywood base. ... Should be no problem for you to add batteries there. My AGM's actually went in that area I'm talking about.

2nd question.. No .. Sadly they are just plain old Lead-Acid.


Hope this helps.

Denny

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

I cannot seem to find your post about the storage behind bedroom TV... Can you give me the post # ... Thanks

Sorry, I don't have a post. I was just commenting on that space and that the TV often acts as a cupboard door.
Ours doesn't do that, but there is a large hole in the upper left closet to access the space.

[Wyatt]

Thanks again, Denny.
I was surprised to see mine were not AGM batteries, and thus needed maintenance, because that’s a small compartment to be doing any battery level checks.
I’ll be swapping out those soon, with these, https://lifelinebatteries.com/products/rv-batteries/ and I only need to add one more next door in that compartment.
The reason I asked, is the original coach battery compartment is steel framed, and the storage area to the left is plastic.

[YGoHom]

Some upgrades.
I replaced my nearly broken entry door handle with one from RV Lock that has a keypad. Expensive, but worth it. The door closes quietly and much smoother. I can’t see the striker assembly breaking as it is a totally different design than the rest of the crap on the market. When one broke on my last Class C it sucked, but I could still go in and out the front doors. If it were to break on ours, we’re screwed. I read that many people with Class A’s leave a window unlocked for “when” it breaks they can still climb in.

I also replaced my propane valve with a much better made model. I replaced the hoses with 24” ones as well. Now I can hook up a rear cylinder without having to move it up front. I had difficulty lighting the stove or water heater with the old one. The new valve allows instant ignition and a nice burner flame, and a better supply of hot water.

The next addition is just that, an addition. Another TV. Like 3 wasn’t enough already in 26 feet. Because I replaced the dinette with a couch, it made more sense to have a TV over the door. An Insignia 39” fits perfectly. It’s a smart tv with built in FireTV and Hulu, etc.
We’re on a 2 week trip on the Oregon coast during College Football Bowl season and I was concerned about getting channels. I bought an adapter for the iPhone that connects the phone thru an hdmi cable to the tv that works perfectly. We have unlimited data, so why not use it. No WiFi necessary.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Some upgrades.
I replaced my nearly broken entry door handle with one from RV Lock that has a keypad. Expensive, but worth it. The door closes quietly and much smoother. I can’t see the striker assembly breaking as it is a totally different design than the rest of the crap on the market. When one broke on my last Class C it sucked, but I could still go in and out the front doors. If it were to break on ours, we’re screwed. I read that many people with Class A’s leave a window unlocked for “when” it breaks they can still climb in.

I also replaced my propane valve with a much better made model. I replaced the hoses with 24” ones as well. Now I can hook up a rear cylinder without having to move it up front. I had difficulty lighting the stove or water heater with the old one. The new valve allows instant ignition and a nice burner flame, and a better supply of hot water.

The next addition is just that, an addition. Another TV. Like 3 wasn’t enough already in 26 feet. Because I replaced the dinette with a couch, it made more sense to have a TV over the door. An Insignia 39” fits perfectly. It’s a smart tv with built in FireTV and Hulu, etc.
We’re on a 2 week trip on the Oregon coast during College Football Bowl season and I was concerned about getting channels. I bought an adapter for the iPhone that connects the phone thru an hdmi cable to the tv that works perfectly. We have unlimited data, so why not use it. No WiFi necessary.

Happy New your to you and your family. Have a blessed new season.

I like your improvements!

Had a Touch pad latch on my C and it worked great until I got stupid and broke the ribbon cable replacing the batterys. My latch on this Intent broke without warning, and yep I now know I can fit thru the passenger window. Very important, as you mentioned, to keep one window unlocked.

Like the LP improvements. I would like to take it a step further and somehow mount the regulator to the top of the compartment, getting it out of the way once and forever. Is your new regulator self switching, as with the old one?

New TV mount position, how did you run the power and coax?

Thanks for your ideas's....

Denny

[YGoHom]

Yes, the propane is still self switching. It has a black lever on top and shows green or red, depending on the bottle. It’s hanging in the same position as the original, on a bent piece of 1/8” metal strap. With the longer hoses it doesn’t have to move unless I’m removing all 4 bottles.
The tv...I replaced the 3 splitter with a 4 for the signal. The power I tapped from the outdoor tv. I added a line of Romex to that box, then ran it forward in the cabinets to it’s own box next to the inverter. Then ran the cords inside the white wiring cover on the right side of the door.

[K9AEG]

yes and thanks for your detailed response to my questions. Thanks again.


Denny

[BROAD ST]

The saltine cracker is back in the sho,front grill has come loose again,steps going in have both come loose and now the leveling jacks will not come all the way down when they are deployed and it says unable to level,called the rv place and there waiting for the manufacturer of it to tell thim what to do to get it fixed,6th time in the shop for repairs this year,Had it one year when it turns jan 7th.Call winnebago every time its in the shop and ask them what they can do ,besides tell me to get it fixed,same response,no way anybody has had this many issues with theirs.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by BROAD ST

The saltine cracker is back in the sho,front grill has come loose again,steps going in have both come loose and now the leveling jacks will not come all the way down when they are deployed and it says unable to level,called the rv place and there waiting for the manufacturer of it to tell thim what to do to get it fixed,6th time in the shop for repairs this year,Had it one year when it turns jan 7th.Call winnebago every time its in the shop and ask them what they can do ,besides tell me to get it fixed,same response,no way anybody has had this many issues with theirs.

Sorry about your problems with your Intent. My grill came loose also. Instead of taking it to a dealer ( Dealers are not too dependable here. ), I got some of that extreme 3M double sided tape, (the stuff I mounted the solar panels with), and that tape seems to be working quite well. No more issues so far.

When I get the same message on my Jacks, I also have only 3 feet down, and one not quite down. I don't know if this is a problem, other than the legs are too short to LEVEL. By placing a 2x6 under the legs that are too short, solves all the problems with Leveling and all 4 are down. Try that.

[YGoHom]

I always level manually. The auto level sucks. It goes much higher than needed. It makes a mistake and then has to compensate for it by going higher. I haven't had any issues manually.
To do it this way, turn it on, press the up arrow on the left once and this display will ask if you want to manually level - press enter. (These 2 arrows toggle through the menu)
Now use the arrows on the right to level.
The front jacks move as a pair, while the rear can go as a pair by using only the down arrow. To level side to side, use the rear left / right arrows.
The display will tell you how far from level you are front to back and side to side.
Only move as much as is needed.

It may take a couple times to figure it out, but I've got it down now and it's MUCH faster than auto.

I hope this helps.

[K9AEG]

Thanks for the info. I've only used it once, when trying to lift the back end out of the mud when I accidently dropped it into a mud hole that looked ok. (yep, had to call a wrecker! :( . )
But I will use your advice to do the manual and try and get used to its operation. Sounds like a better way.