Coach batteries not charging while plugged into shore power

[Winnie J]

Hi there,
New to the forum but hoping someone has run into this issue. I have a 2006 Journey, model WKP39K. (35,000 miles). Have replaced all batteries, both coach and chassis. Recently purchased the coach and am getting it ready for the maiden voyage. I have found out that while plugged into my 50 amp service in my shop that the coach batteries are not staying charged. Everything else seems work perfectly.

I have checked all voltages, fuses and breakers. Everything seems to be right, but when running interior lights and/or radio for a few hours my voltage can drop to 8 or 9 volts. I can charge them back immediately with an external battery charger, but the shore power does not seem to keep them topped off?

Do I have a bad converter charge circuit? Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kirby

[powercat_ras]

Yes it sounds like converter charger has failed. It's 12 years old so that's very possible. You should be able to go to Winnebagoind.com and view electrical drawings for your coach and see where its located. If it is a separate box and not built into the bottom of your AC load center then you can replace with a current vintage one that is much better than the 12 year old one. The converter charger itself can bought on Amazon for under $ 200.

You said you have checked things but be aware that the converter charger is on a dedicated 15 amp breaker in your AC load center, so if that breaker tripped that's the only effect there would be. This is assuming your Journey has a separate converter charger.

[BobC]

At 12 years old, even if the converter isn't bad, it's a good idea to replace it with a modern, multi-stage converter. It will be better for your batteries.

[MkgBen]

After killing a two-battery house bank in a year, I replaced the converter (bottom of distribution panel) with a multi-stage. I am now comfortable leaving the unit plugged in without boiling the water out of the batteries. Only problem is it only charges the house bank, not the starting battery, so I just added a 4 amp Battery Tender for that and can use it on the toad, if needed. Both drop to 13.2 volts to safely maintain the batteries. There are separate multi-stage chargers that will charge both the house and starting batteries even though they are different sizes but same voltage. These are popular on cruising sailboats.

[wmckinley]

I wired in a Trik-l Start 4 years ago. Haven't had a chassis battery issue yet. It charges off the Main Coach DC. I'm usually plugged in when parked for extended periods, but the coach has been stored unplugged for as long as a month with no issue's
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer

[Jim_HiTek]

Many RV owners have found that their particular model RV may not have a built in charger for the chassis batteries. Neither my Bounder, or my Journey, along with my brothers Class C, my friends various RVs, my other friends, and numerous travelers I've met in campgrounds have them. Only certain models come with them. I believe that all Monaco's do.

What you can do is just measure the voltage across the batteries when you've parked and been plugged in for an hour. If it's in the 12.8V range, you don't have a charger on it. (Many people are sold on the totally worthless optional solar panel on the roof. Small thing that only puts out 3/4 amp...it's connected to the chassis battery but doesn't keep them charged. Too weak).

Anyway, there's a couple things you can do, one is if there's an electrical outlet nearby the batteries is to get a Schumacher charger ($22). Many stores that carry automotive parts carry them. Plug that into AC and attach to the batteries and it will keep your batteries charged whenever you're plugged in. I know, had one for 12 years in my Bounder.

Another way is with either a Trik-L-Start or Amp-L-Start. These basically do the same thing only difference is that the Amp-L-Start is higher current. The TLS is lower cost but works fine for me. They both are connected across the house batteries with another wire going to the chassis batteries and when the RV is plugged into shore power, will 'borrow' some charging voltage/current to charge up the chassis batteries. Most people go this route as they are more convenient to install (just three connections, all in the battery compartment, directly to the batteries). Both these devices are simple, idiot proof, work well, and keep your chassis batteries charged up.

[Jdmalibu]

I was glad to find this thread today, I just came back from first camping experience and found I have the same problem. Coach batteries drain while plugged in to shore power 30amp. We first noticed dimming lights. Batteries are brand new deep cycle.

I found the factory options sales slip, and it shows my model does have a converter charger. I’m trying to locate where it is installed, I looked below the coach fuse box, it’s not there.

This thread appears to offer 2 recommendations, a smart covert and a trickle charger. If I understand correctly these are for 2 separate problems. The updated conversion charger is for the coach batteries, and the trickle charger is for the truck power.

Also for preventative purposes what does an experienced RV owner carry to help with a drained battery system? Extra Batteries? Charger? Booster?

Thanks

[BobC]

The best solution in my mind to always having charged batteries is a decently sized solar panel system. I had about 200w on my TT and am installing 360w on my motorhome. On my motorhome I will be using a controller capable of charging two battery banks. For several years I only had 100w on my TT which served us well.

A single bank solar controller in conjunction with a TLS or ALS will work as well.

There are small, portable emergency start batteries capable of starting a motorhome.

If your MH doesn't have one, a battery combiner switch is also a good idea. It will enable you to connect your house and vehicle batteries together for a power boost to start your engine. If you have a genset, your batteries may start it even if they won't start your motorhome engine.

A charger can be useful to charge your vehicle battery if you have access to shore power, but carrying around an extra battery (other than an emergency start battery) is overkill.

[Jim_HiTek]

Originally Posted by Jdmalibu

I was glad to find this thread today, I just came back from first camping experience and found I have the same problem. Coach batteries drain while plugged in to shore power 30amp. We first noticed dimming lights. Batteries are brand new deep cycle.

I found the factory options sales slip, and it shows my model does have a converter charger. I’m trying to locate where it is installed, I looked below the coach fuse box, it’s not there.

This thread appears to offer 2 recommendations, a smart covert and a trickle charger. If I understand correctly these are for 2 separate problems. The updated conversion charger is for the coach batteries, and the trickle charger is for the truck power.

Also for preventative purposes what does an experienced RV owner carry to help with a drained battery system? Extra Batteries? Charger? Booster?

Thanks

Check under the refer for your converter.



As mentioned previously, there are many RVs that did not come with an axillary charger to maintain the coach (starting) batteries when plugged into shore power. So the Amp-L-Start and Trik-L-Start do that little job easily and cheaply. Much less expensively than a solar system.



The first thing most of us do is add one of those two products.


The other thing many do is when the rig is in storage is to either keep it plugged into power OR just disconnect the ground leads from both sets of batts. That will keep them from discharging where there's no power available. So always carry a tool to disconnect the battery connectors.



What most RV's of your style have is a rocker switch on the dash, usually named 'AUX' or 'AUX Start' or something similar. If your chassis batts get low while camping and it's time to leave, you just press that switch and hold it. It closes a relay that jumps the House and Chassis batteries together so the rig will start. I full time RV'd with bad set of chassis batteries for years with a Schumacher charger for when it was on shore power and by using the AUX start every time I needed to start it up. And when in storage I always just disconnected the battery grounds.


Keepin' it simple.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by Winnie J

Hi there,
New to the forum but hoping someone has run into this issue. I have a 2006 Journey, model WKP39K. (35,000 miles). Have replaced all batteries, both coach and chassis. Recently purchased the coach and am getting it ready for the maiden voyage. I have found out that while plugged into my 50 amp service in my shop that the coach batteries are not staying charged. Everything else seems work perfectly.

I have checked all voltages, fuses and breakers. Everything seems to be right, but when running interior lights and/or radio for a few hours my voltage can drop to 8 or 9 volts. I can charge them back immediately with an external battery charger, but the shore power does not seem to keep them topped off?

Do I have a bad converter charge circuit? Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kirby

Kirby, I have tried to follow your wiring diagrams: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_154196.pdf Sheet #2 and http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_152113.pdf sheet #4.



Note 6 pointed me to this: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_152098.pdf You have a TRIK-L-START in your DC power bay.

[VI Roamers]

If the batteries are not charging when plugged in the first check is to determine why.

A meter on the output terminals of the converter will tell you if the converter is putting out the correct voltage over 13 volts. If it is, then you have to check at the battery terminals. If the battery is failing but the converter seems to be putting out the correct voltage, it's a wiring problem, not the converter.

Ask me why I know this.... my problem was just like others, a loose negative wire under the screw terminals at the converter. This negative fed the battery and was so loose it just acted as a big resistor, heated up with the converter trying it's hardest to get to the battery.

I found mine just by wiggling the wires that fed to the battery. Suddenly, the lights all got bright, and I knew what was wrong instantly.

If you have a laser thermometer, point it at the terminal strip to see if there is a hot spot. That would mean a loose connection.

Good luck, hope you save a bundle and don't replace a good converter.

[BillB100]

I don't know if any one has suggest this yet but If you will unplug your coach. Then remove the ground from your coach batteries. Then go back and plug your rig in. If you can operate your lights which are 12 volts, your converter is still working properly, we know this because your batteries are now out of the equation. If your 12 volt lights do not work then your problem is in your converter and not your batteries. If you find that you need to change out your converter you can go with a bigger one but not a smaller amp one. I'm no expert but this is how I figured mine out. Hope this helps

[Jim_HiTek]

Originally Posted by BillB100

I don't know if any one has suggest this yet but If you will unplug your coach. Then remove the ground from your coach batteries. Then go back and plug your rig in. If you can operate your lights which are 12 volts, your converter is still working properly, we know this because your batteries are now out of the equation. If your 12 volt lights do not work then your problem is in your converter and not your batteries. If you find that you need to change out your converter you can go with a bigger one but not a smaller amp one. I'm no expert but this is how I figured mine out. Hope this helps

Not a good idea, Bill.


The batteries act as a voltage sink, or load, so that the converter doesn't supply too much voltage to the house wiring...blowing out all the 12 volt devices because of overvoltage.


But, you can certainly try that with several incandescent 12 volt bulbs turned on to act as a load. Measure the voltage and if it's over 14.8 - 15.8 volt, I wouldn't chance leaving it on and plugged into shore power without the batteries for very long.

[Wayne M]

Don't know about the 2006 Journey but my previous 2008 Winni Destination had the same problem. Batteries would drain down to around 11 volts when plugged into 110 source trying to keep them charged. I did have the Trik-L-Charge.


Don't know if this is your solution but I called Winnebago. They said to leave the disconnect switches ON and to turn the Step OFF. My converter was 600 Watt and it could not keep up with the constant current drain of the step being ON. The batteries would not charge by the inverter if the disconnect switches were off.

[wmckinley]

JDMalibu

When I purchased my Sightseer 35j (used) I found the factory converter boiled my batteries. It was a 45 amp model from the factory. I replaced it with an progressive dynamics 60amp. There isn't any issue with going to a larger amperage unit, voltage is still regulated to the proper 13.6v. It was located under the refrigerator. I believe your 35j is laid out the same as mine. Put your bunk slide out and there is a panel at the bottom of the side of the refrigerator cabinet. Remove it to get access to the converter. Kinda of a pain. I also added a trickle-start at the same time for the chassis battery. We carry a small battery booster to fire up our toad if that battery drops out. ( it has a charge line but i need to upgrade it), we have used it once to start the generator when in a national park as the original batteries died. 9 yrs old. Replaced those with 2 6v golf cart batteries connected in series.

[al1florida]

Originally Posted by Winnie J

Hi there,
New to the forum but hoping someone has run into this issue. I have a 2006 Journey, model WKP39K. (35,000 miles). Have replaced all batteries, both coach and chassis. Recently purchased the coach and am getting it ready for the maiden voyage. I have found out that while plugged into my 50 amp service in my shop that the coach batteries are not staying charged. Everything else seems work perfectly.

I have checked all voltages, fuses and breakers. Everything seems to be right, but when running interior lights and/or radio for a few hours my voltage can drop to 8 or 9 volts. I can charge them back immediately with an external battery charger, but the shore power does not seem to keep them topped off?

Do I have a bad converter charge circuit? Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kirby

Kirby, Did you get your problem resolved? If not, come back and update with what you have done in the last couple of weeks and we will see if we can help.
First off the Journey doesn't have a converter. It has an inverter/charger from the factory. At 12 years old it is possible the original inverter/charger has been replaced. It would help if you found the inverter and provided the mfg and model number.

Also to even begin to troubleshoot the problem you will need a multi meter (voltmeter). They are available from any big box store of Amazon for under $20.

[Jdmalibu]

I just want to post the location of the converter charger in a 2007 Sunova 35J.

It is located under the kitchen stack of 3 drawers, below is an air intake grill, unscrew the grill and your CC is located there screwed to the floor.

Mine had 2 blown 30amp fuses. I am replacing them and hoping for the best.

I hope this helps someone down the road.

[Jdmalibu]

So glad I brought a battery charger on my last trip...it saved me a ton of problems...found out that with no voltage from batteries..12v I can’t operate A/C as the thermostat is dead, also did not realize water pump runs off 12v also. So with dead coach batteries, and a connection to shore power...only item I could use was the fridge. And I couldn’t even start the generator because the ignition must run off coach batteries too.

Anyhow I found blown fuses on my converter charger..I hope that fixes the problem.

Having a battery charger is a must have I have found. Will never leave home without one.

[Azcal77]

Had the problem of chassis battery not charging while plugged into shore power in our 2012 Itasca Suncruiser 35p. Was told by Winnebago tech that and a tech at the RV dealer the only way to prevent chassis battery discharge was to use the chassis disconnect, however disconnecting the chassis battery caused the power MCD shades and other devices to not operate. Installed a Xantrex 82-0123-01 Echo Charge. Purchased it from Amazon for $110, simple permanent install which took about an hour. Chassis battery now always stays within 2 or 3 volts of the house batteries while on shore power.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by al1florida

Kirby, Did you get your problem resolved? If not, come back and update with what you have done in the last couple of weeks and we will see if we can help.
First off the Journey doesn't have a converter. It has an inverter/charger from the factory. At 12 years old it is possible the original inverter/charger has been replaced. It would help if you found the inverter and provided the mfg and model number.

Also to even begin to troubleshoot the problem you will need a multi meter (voltmeter). They are available from any big box store of Amazon for under $20.

Wow,
It took 17 posts to actually get the OP the right info on his coach. Yes, it's a Journey which, is a diesel coach. And in that era, about 99.999% of them came with Dimensions 2000 Watt Inverter/Chargers. Those Inverter/Chargers had mixed reviews over the years. Some, didn't last very long, as in about a couple of years. And some, like ours lasted 11 years until the charging side went south for the Winter and never came back. I have friends who have Journeys and Meridians of that era and those Dimensions units are still working just fine.

Now, if the OP EVER get's back here, maybe he'll see this info. That Dimensions unit is located behind the drivers side duals, in the Shore power compartment. It's only about 8" high x about 12" wide x about 15" or so inches long so, pretty tough to miss it.

Now, this, in a nutshell, is how the system works. Up to this model year (the OPs) Winnebago and Itasca did NOT PROVIDE for "Chassis" battery charging while on shore power, for their diesel coaches. The Charger side of that Dimensions unit does provide the charging for the HOUSE batteries while on shore power. But, in the OPs year and above, Winne started installing,from the factory, the Trik-L-Start unit. The Trik-L-Start unit is NOT A BATTERY CHARGER!!

It is simply a controller. For the OPs coach, the Trik-L-Start is located INSIDE the access panel where the House battery shut-down solenoid, and the "Auxiliary Battery Boost" solenoid is located, just above the generator, after you lift the front hood up. You'll see that access panel there. And, you'll see the decals on that access panel directing you to those two solenoids.

As stated, that is also where Winne installed the Trik-L-Start. When the coach is plugged into shore power, the charger side of that Dimensions unit goes in to a charge mode. Depending on just what state the house batteries are in, determines just what phase the charger begins to charge at. In that unit, there are three levels.

1. Bulk
2. Acceptance
3. Float

At this point, there's no need to explain what each phase is and does. If that info is needed, it's on the net. But, the Job of the Trik-L-Start is as follows. When the coach is plugged into shore power and the Dimensions (or any Inverter/Charger model and brand) unit begins to charge the house batteries, the Trik-L-Start monitors the the voltage on each side of the battery banks. When it sees a .5 voltage difference between the two battery banks, it steps into action. What it does is simply SIPHONS off, some of the amperage that's intended for the chassis batteries and, sends a maximum of 5 amps to the chassis batteries.

5 amps is the max, for the Trik-L-Start. If you don't have that unit installed and would like it or something like it, to charge your CHASSIS batteries while on shore power and, you have a diesel with a system similar to the one I'm discussing here, you can also get the Trik-L-Start's bigger brother, the Amp-L-Start. That unit functions the same exact way only, it allows a maximum of 15 amps to be sent to the chassis batteries.

Now, by far, the best way to check and see if things are working correctly is, to purchase and learn to use, a Volt-ohm meter. You can get one as cheap as FREE from Harbor Freight if they're on one their ad campaigns that includes it. Or, you can spend anywhere from $15 on the net, upwards of $100 or more for one. That's up to each individual. But, there's no need for an expensive one for the tests here.

It's a simple process.

1. No shore power, no engine running. Using your trusty VOM, (Volt ohm meter) set to volts, take a reading of both the chassis batteries and the house batteries and, note the readings.

2. Plug into shore power. Give any systems time to settle in, about a minute or two. Then, take the same readings on the two battery banks and, again, note the readings.

3. Compare the readings. If your readings are say around 12.0 or so with no shore power at your house batteries but, after plugging into shore power the readings climbed to say, 13.0 - 14.0, it's typically meaning your charging system (Dimensions 2000 Watt Inverter/Charger) is working correctly.

4. Likewise, if your readings with no shore power on your CHASSIS batteries is say, 12.5 or so, but, when on shore power, they climb to say, 13.0 - 13.5 or higher, it would mean that if, you have the Trik-L-Start, it too is working correctly.

5. But, if you see NO improvement in either set of batteries AFTER plugging into shore power, well, "Houston, we have a problem". And it's time for some investigations. Hope some of this info helps.
Scott