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Old 12-03-2013, 10:44 AM   #1
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2004 Meridian/Journey Bedroom Slide Leak

Been full timing in this rig for 2 yrs. No issues. Recently noticed water in slide. Now this is the 36G with the slide on the driver's side. It is full of closet and drawers. 4 closet doors across. Right one is floor to ceiling. and other three are over two rows of two drawers.

Now most leaks that I read of seem to be occurring around the seals. This one is at the bottom back of the floor to ceiling closet. In the right corner, wetness goes up about one foot and then makes a triangle down the cedar panel and the floor is wet there as well. There does not seem to be any wetness anywhere around the seals. Only here at the back of the slide.

I did a 1000 mile trip in drizzle a week ago. And wondering if that might be the cause. (slide retraced and this corner is forward) But it has rained since. On inspection nothing obvious about where it might have come from.

Grateful for any insights from folks with similar experiences.
Alex
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:24 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by AlexP View Post
Been full timing in this rig for 2 yrs. No issues. Recently noticed water in slide. Now this is the 36G with the slide on the driver's side. It is full of closet and drawers. 4 closet doors across. Right one is floor to ceiling. and other three are over two rows of two drawers.

Now most leaks that I read of seem to be occurring around the seals. This one is at the bottom back of the floor to ceiling closet. In the right corner, wetness goes up about one foot and then makes a triangle down the cedar panel and the floor is wet there as well. There does not seem to be any wetness anywhere around the seals. Only here at the back of the slide.

I did a 1000 mile trip in drizzle a week ago. And wondering if that might be the cause. (slide retraced and this corner is forward) But it has rained since. On inspection nothing obvious about where it might have come from.

Grateful for any insights from folks with similar experiences.
Alex
Hi Alex. Sorry to hear of your troubles. I had a '05 Vectra FD with a bedroom slide leak. This was the bed slide and eventually led to major damage and mold in the ceiling cover. Winnebago rebuilt the slide roof after many blotched attempts by many different dealers.

Here is what I learned. Behind the inside trim is a seam. This seam would open over time because of the action of the frame hitting the wall when the slide was opened. With great pain I use a mirror and flashlight to examine the area. I had to run the slide in some to get a look see. Windex and paper towel was used to clean the roof seam area thoroughly.

Find a good flexible caulking. DAP® ALEX Ultra® 230 is a good choice. This is a messy job. Get the caulk to the seam as best as you can and smooth it out with your finger. Let this dry and cure thoroughly before you open the slide back up.

Check the other seams on the roof, including under the topper. You will have to remove it to do this correctly. Clean and seal where needed.

I hope you check all of your roof seams from time to time throughout the year. They need to be watched. Our homes on wheels flex in ways the stationary ones don't. Surprises can be avoided in this manner.

Happy trails and a successful and speedy fix.

Rick
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:59 PM   #3
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I had a leak in the bed slide that I finally found under the slide awning. A few screws were not fully tight. As previously mentioned, you will have to remove the slide topper to get to slide roof. I tightened the screws, caulked the screw heads and my leak was fixed. (Not quite that easy, I recaulked the window twice before I figured out the window wasn't the problem.)
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:42 PM   #4
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On my 39K the forward edge of the bedroom slide was leaking. I had to replace the rubber gasket (if that's what you call it) Actually, had Winnebago replace the gasket/seal and thus far no more leaks.
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:29 PM   #5
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Thanks for your responses. After reading them I have looked again more carefully.

jerichorick: I pulled the slide in and got my mirror and flashlight. I think the design must be different from the bed vs the wardrobe slide. I don't see a seam that looks like what you describe. I do see good rubber which is still flexible that LOOKs fine.

I am accustomed to checking and caulking the edge of the roof, but never worried about the slides. They had seemed to be fine. So this is new and I am a little reluctant to remove the slide topper. Looks a little challenging.

LEHAFER: I checked the screws that I could reach under the topper. They seemed fine. But I am a little reluctant to remove the topper, especially when it isn't clear it is coming from there. But I know water is unpredictable.

1ciderdog: What you are describing seemed the most likely as I had done 1000 miles with alot of rain and the forward corner of the closet was what was wet. I did double check that seal that you mention. I tried sliding a business card between the body and the seal and it took some pressure to do that. I wonder if I might have been a bit absent minded when I retracted the slide and didn't get it all the way in. It has only happened this once.

Well it is supposed to rain a bunch again in the next few days. That should help tell whether this is driving related or stationary related.

Thanks
Alex
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:11 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by AlexP View Post
Thanks for your responses. After reading them I have looked again more carefully.

1ciderdog: What you are describing seemed the most likely as I had done 1000 miles with alot of rain and the forward corner of the closet was what was wet. I did double check that seal that you mention. I tried sliding a business card between the body and the seal and it took some pressure to do that. I wonder if I might have been a bit absent minded when I retracted the slide and didn't get it all the way in. It has only happened this once.

Well it is supposed to rain a bunch again in the next few days. That should help tell whether this is driving related or stationary related.

Thanks
Alex
FYI On mine the about 8 inches of the lower end of the seal was torn and I knew the seal had to be replaced.
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:48 AM   #7
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Thanks for the feedback Alex. I have heard of times when even the best seals leak when the wind and rain are real heavy. These slides do move when we travel, even if slightly. Over time and very severe conditions water could leak in. I hope this is your case.

Happy and dry trails,
Rick
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:02 PM   #8
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So new theory: It is 70 degrees in here and RH is about 40. According to my internet dew point calculator the dew point is 44 degrees. So my slide/closet has the same air, but is exposed with some, but not alot of insulation on all but one side. With the wardrobe closed and nights going down into the high 20s, it seems a sure bet that the sides and back are reaching 44. I have just purchased a dehumidifier. Seems like I also need to keep the doors open some as well, and night time would be best. But the lights in there seem complex to disable. Anyone have good solutions for that?

Thanks
Alex
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:35 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by AlexP View Post
So new theory: It is 70 degrees in here and RH is about 40. According to my internet dew point calculator the dew point is 44 degrees. So my slide/closet has the same air, but is exposed with some, but not alot of insulation on all but one side. With the wardrobe closed and nights going down into the high 20s, it seems a sure bet that the sides and back are reaching 44. I have just purchased a dehumidifier. Seems like I also need to keep the doors open some as well, and night time would be best. But the lights in there seem complex to disable. Anyone have good solutions for that?

Thanks
Alex
That is interesting, Alex. A week or so ago we had very heavy rains and it was cool. I woke during the night with the distinct sound of dripping over my head! The roof seam in the overhead cupboard was soaked. I didn't know if I had a leak of if it were condensation.

I posted my problem on irv2 and the idea of a dehumidifier was presented. But another idea was given that I have tried and it seems to be helping. Just hand crank the vents open slightly. But I also insulated along the ceiling to wall seam in all of the cupboards. With these interventions in place we have no more moisture problems, even down to 17*.

I used 3/8"x1/2" foam tape from Lowe's. Here are pictures:
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:52 AM   #10
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Interesting. That corning is where most of our moisture appears.

I got one of the small RV style dehumidifiers The Eva-Dry 2200. Supposed to dehumidify 2200 cubic feet (which is about the size of my 36'). But in 24 hours it had removed about a cup of water when our RH was 50%. This was a nice unit at 8 lbs or so vs the conventional small dehumidifier with compressor for 30+lbs. But the conventional takes out about 30 pints in 24 hours. I sent it back thinking this was not going to help me.

I read about another RVer who managed to make his AC run at the same time as his propane furnace, thereby making his own dehumidifier. That seems to be to be the best solution, but I don't think I can do it with Winnie's thermostat set up. Wish I could figure it out, rather than hauling around and finding space to store another 30 lbs of stuff.

Alex
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Old 12-15-2013, 11:43 AM   #11
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The single best thing you can do to reduce humidity inside your coach is to keep a vent open and even run one of the fantastic fans at low speed.

We recently were in our coach during two days of rain and cold weather and had lots of condensation on inside of the windshield in early AM.....enough to puddle on the dash. I merely opened the bath vent and set the fan on its lowest speed and we had no more visible condensation the rest of the time even with temps in the 20's at night and never over mid 30's during daytime.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:16 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by AlexP View Post
So new theory: It is 70 degrees in here and RH is about 40. According to my internet dew point calculator the dew point is 44 degrees. So my slide/closet has the same air, but is exposed with some, but not alot of insulation on all but one side. With the wardrobe closed and nights going down into the high 20s, it seems a sure bet that the sides and back are reaching 44. I have just purchased a dehumidifier. Seems like I also need to keep the doors open some as well, and night time would be best. But the lights in there seem complex to disable. Anyone have good solutions for that?

Thanks
Alex
As to disabling the lights, we use an empty paper towel roll slid up over the bottom of the assembly, holding the pin in as if the door were closed. Works for us.
We have a similar leak on our '05 Itasca Horizon driver's side bedroom slide (lower corner, forward edge.) I know we need to replace the slide out wiper seals; but, I'm going to check these other suggestions posted here, as well.
BTW, talked to an RV insurance adjuster around the campfire once and was told that the *only* way to dry the interior of an RV sufficiently to remove moisture and prevent mold and other damage after repairing leaks was to use a good dehumidifier. We have a 30 pint one, that we bought at Lowes, that we use. Eva dry units won't do it. We also use it to maintain our humidity below 50%. We haven't had musty smells in our RVs since then. It's also important to vent when showering, cooking, etc.; but, in winter, heat is too precious to waste! While traveling, we store it lying on it's face on a plastic shoe mat with raised edges to hold in any water that may remain in the pan.
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:02 PM   #13
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We have been opening the roof vents a little by hand. Just that small amount of cold dry air "leaking" in has helped to keep the moisture under control. Power venting after a shower is important as well as venting the kitchen cooking humidity as already stated.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:54 PM   #14
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LuckyDog, Thanks for the reply. Seems to take a very delicate touch to do the paper towel trick. Any motion in the rig seems to knock them down for us.

I agree with the Eva units. I sent it back. 1 cup in 24 hours is not the same as 30 pints.

Far enough south does it too.

Alex
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:33 AM   #15
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LuckyDog, Thanks for the reply. Seems to take a very delicate touch to do the paper towel trick. Any motion in the rig seems to knock them down for us.

Alex
We did shorten the paper towel roll to about 1/3 of it's original length. Less weight pulling down seems to let it stay in place longer.

Tom
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