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Old 12-26-2015, 01:41 PM   #1
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What's Draining My Chassis Batteries?

Couple days ago they were at 12.2 (I am using a Fluke Multi-Meter) and today they are down to 11.9?

On another note how low can I let the batteries go before they get ruined?

I have the coach stored here at home plugged into 20amps (House batteries are disconnected so they are not getting charged.) The former owner installed a disconnect switch that I use to disconnect them)
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Old 12-26-2015, 01:47 PM   #2
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Have you considered turning the house battery disconnect switch ON while connected to your hone 20amp service and then see if they are taking a charge??
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Old 12-26-2015, 01:57 PM   #3
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Have you considered turning the house battery disconnect switch ON while connected to your hone 20amp service and then see if they are taking a charge??
The Chassis are not getting a charge when I turn on the house batteries, and yes the House ARE getting a charge when I turn them on. I don't want to OVERCHARGE them, but I like having the MH plugged because I am in and out of it all the time....

LeeB........ I am going to double check this right now..Nope Chassis not charging if I want that I would have to install a (Trik-L-Start)
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:01 PM   #4
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Chassis batteries won't generally charge while plugged in. You need a trickle-start
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger Smith View Post
Chassis batteries won't generally charge while plugged in. You need a trickle-start
LoL I know that.......

My questions is what could be draining the Chassis Batteries?

Thanks LeeB
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:12 PM   #6
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I
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeB View Post
The Chassis are not getting a charge when I turn on the house batteries, and yes the House ARE getting a charge when I turn them on. I don't want to OVERCHARGE them, but I like having the MH plugged because I am in and out of it all the time....

LeeB........ I am going to double check this right now
Have you checked for engine battery charging after charging the house batteries for a few hours ? Sometimes they don't cross connect until the house batteries are above 13. 3 for a while.

Aside from that, with a good 3 stage automatic converter/charger you won't OVERCHARGE your house batteries.

Then you can use an Amp L Start or Trick L Start. They won't work if the house batteries are disconnected.

The principal is to steal some charging current from the house bank, and send it to charge the engine battery.

Any time you let a battery sit under 12.6 volts it is getting weaker. Sitting at12.06 volts is 50% state of charge. Less then that and life goes down hill fast.

Sometimes alternators go bad and put a couple amp draw on the system. Carefull ( It's got power all of the time ) pull the large wire off it and see if it helps. An amp meter between the pos. post and pos. cable will show any draw. A few tenths of an Amp are normal, If higher, then that you need to start unhooking things to find the draw.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:33 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
I

I just got the coach a few weeks ago and still trying to figure stuff out.

Have you checked for engine battery charging after charging the house batteries for a few hours ? Sometimes they don't cross connect until the house batteries are above 13. 3 for a while.

I have never seen the Chassis Batteries over 12.2 (Even after running the engine)

Aside from that, with a good 3 stage automatic converter/charger you won't OVERCHARGE your house batteries.

I would be willing to bet it is stock what ever the coeach came with. I know it is a Dementions (sp)

Then you can use an Amp L Start or Trick L Start. They won't work if the house batteries are disconnected.

I understand that....

The principal is to steal some charging current from the house bank, and send it to charge the engine battery.

Any time you let a battery sit under 12.6 volts it is getting weaker. Sitting at12.06 volts is 50% state of charge. Less then that and life goes down hill fast.

This has me worried because at the Dealership he had a hard time starting the coach. He had to start the Generator and then hold the Boost Button for about 10minutes in order to give the Chassis Batteries ebough juice to start the Engine. So I am thinking the Chassis Batteries are shot (even though they are Interstates and are less then 10 minths old)

Sometimes alternators go bad and put a couple amp draw on the system. Carefull ( It's got power all of the time ) pull the large wire off it and see if it helps. An amp meter between the pos. post and pos. cable will show any draw. A few tenths of an Amp are normal, If higher, then that you need to start unhooking things to find the draw.
I am assuming you mean pull the Large Wire off the Battery and then use the Meter (or 12vote bulb) to see if there is a drain on them..

Deaker said he did a load test and they were fine???????
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:50 PM   #8
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There are a couple of things I discovered about my rig:

1) I needed to apply a charge to the chassis batteries when I was parked for a long time ... I did this by connecting jumper cables between the house battery and the chassis battery for a few hours .... I needed to do that BEFORE I installed a TRICK-L-START... I no longer need to do that.

2) There are several things that are powered by the chassis battery: the steps, the radio, and engine electronics

Installing a T-L-S is very easy on a 2004 Meridian .. it took me longer to remove the cover than it did to install the T-L-S. All the connections are right there in front of you.

You should check a chart concerning % charge and voltage on a battery ... as I recall a battery that is showing 12.2 V is already 50% discharged ... they should be in the neighborhood of 13.4 V to be fully charged.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:52 PM   #9
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If you don't see 13.5 or more when engine running, you need to get your alternator and or belt checked.

That brings up another thought. Some older MHs used diode based battery isolators. The alternator output is redirected to the center tap of a index card sized box, with cooling fins, and then out to both battery banks.

They can fail open and you won't get any charging from the alternator to either battery.

Look for one and jump it temporary across all three posts and start it up and check for 13.5 volts on both batteries.

Keep us posted on results.

The dealer got you out the door without fixing anything. That what they do.
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skigramp View Post
There are a couple of things I discovered about my rig:

1) I needed to apply a charge to the chassis batteries when I was parked for a long time ... I did this by connecting jumper cables between the house battery and the chassis battery for a few hours .... I needed to do that BEFORE I installed a TRICK-L-START... I no longer need to do that.

2) There are several things that are powered by the chassis battery: the steps, the radio, and engine electronics

Installing a T-L-S is very easy on a 2004 Meridian .. it took me longer to remove the cover than it did to install the T-L-S. All the connections are right there in front of you.
I looked at installing a T-L-S and even printed out the Service tip from WIT April 2006 and looked under the panel is the front and there is no way I could get to the Battery Disconnect Solenoids to hook up the wire to... I am now looking to see if anyone has hooked up the T-L-S in a different spot

You should check a chart concerning % charge and voltage on a battery ... as I recall a battery that is showing 12.2 V is already 50% discharged ... they should be in the neighborhood of 13.4 V to be fully charged.


Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
If you don't see 13.5 or more when engine running, you need to get your alternator and or belt checked.

That brings up another thought. Some older MHs used diode based battery isolators. The alternator output is redirected to the center tap of a index card sized box, with cooling fins, and then out to both battery banks.

They can fail open and you won't get any charging from the alternator to either battery.

Look for one and jump it temporary across all three posts and start it up and check for 13.5 volts on both batteries.

Keep us posted on results.

The dealer got you out the door without fixing anything. That what they do.
I'll have to wait til tomorrow it is pretty chilly here and the CAT 350 starts a lot easier when the Block Heater is on for a few hours..... Thanks....... Maybe Monday tomorrow is going to busy with LIFE stuff....

Thanks Again Lee............
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:34 PM   #11
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I am not familiar with the Diesels but I did install a trick-l-charge in my battery compartment directly off the batteries which the manufacturer showed as an alternate to the solenoid hook-up. Also on our gasser the chassis battery powers steps, slides and jacks. I was plugged in prior to installing the TLS and in and out of the coach a lot over a month or so and the engine wouldn't turn over. No problem now. My battery compartment is fairly well ventilated.
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Old 12-27-2015, 07:55 PM   #12
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The light under your step can draw power, a radio on can too. The Alternator can also be bad and drain the battery. The charge when running should be at least 13.8 - 14.2
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:27 PM   #13
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On my 2004 Journey the "up front" fuse box has four twisting latches on a panel ... there are also about a dozen screws around the outside of the entire cover ... remove those dozen screws so everything inside is in view then installing the T-L-S is a piece of cake ... everything is right there before you ....

It will take you longer to remove and replace the dozen screws than it will to install the T-L-S ...

remember "A job started ... is half done"
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:06 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by skigramp View Post
On my 2004 Journey the "up front" fuse box has four twisting latches on a panel ... there are also about a dozen screws around the outside of the entire cover ... remove those dozen screws so everything inside is in view then installing the T-L-S is a piece of cake ... everything is right there before you ....

It will take you longer to remove and replace the dozen screws than it will to install the T-L-S ...

remember "A job started ... is half done"
Thanks I'll have to take a closer look. I went ahead and ordered the T-L-S yesterday....... I assume you disconnect everything before you do this!

LeeB
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:56 AM   #15
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Things I found to discharge a chassis battery.
Clock/radio
Scanguage draws power when plugged in.
Electric steps going in/out. Should be turned off it not using.
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Old 12-29-2015, 12:10 PM   #16
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To your original question;

Use your fluke in current mode ( in series and probably limited to 10A ) and start pulling fuses. Eventually you would find the culprit(s).
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:22 PM   #17
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Have the same problem Lee B. I haven't found the pull yet abut I am continually charging with a 4 amp charger. Not a solution and i still want to find who is stealing my electricity. Not steps or radio- been there done that. Could still be the engine electronics but if so its sucking hard on the battery.
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Old 01-05-2016, 03:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeB View Post
Couple days ago they were at 12.2 (I am using a Fluke Multi-Meter) and today they are down to 11.9?

On another note how low can I let the batteries go before they get ruined?

I have the coach stored here at home plugged into 20amps (House batteries are disconnected so they are not getting charged.) The former owner installed a disconnect switch that I use to disconnect them)
There is much being said here. Some good info and others not so good. So, form my experience let me say this. If you are plugged in you should be charging. The charge relay on these rigs is a know problem. It switches the inverter charge to the low battery. They are replaceable and readable available. The key is continuous duty with a high current rating.

Here is you wiring diagram: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_144816.pdf

Hope this helps.

The 11.9v is still a good battery. This site might help you: Batteries & Lead-Acid Battery Maintenance | Firewize

Happy trails,
Rick Y
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