UA 40E spotlight

McDuff · 12-30-2006, 05:22 AM

If you read my "is home" thread, you know I had an issue with my spotlight.

After we had parked in Phoenix, a neighbor came over to tell us our spotlight was on. It was highbeaming right in his bedroom. We had not turned it on, in fact that was one thing I forgot to even test when buying. But it was not on at anytime before this.

So I grabbed its remote, and nothing worked. Couldn't turn it off, move it or anything. Batteries in remote seemed good.

Long story short, we shut the whole coach down. Unplugged, inverter off, aux switch at door shut off, everything we could think of, and the light was still on.

Luckily a friend came to visit and climbed up on roof and removed bulb for me.

Looking thru the wiring diagram, it just appeared that the spot was butt spliced into marker light wires. So where was it getting power?

At home, my brother put bulb back in and now we could not get it to light up at all. Still need to test wires with meter, but this is confusing.

Anybody got any insight for me?

McDuff · 12-30-2006, 05:22 AM

If you read my "is home" thread, you know I had an issue with my spotlight.

After we had parked in Phoenix, a neighbor came over to tell us our spotlight was on. It was highbeaming right in his bedroom. We had not turned it on, in fact that was one thing I forgot to even test when buying. But it was not on at anytime before this.

So I grabbed its remote, and nothing worked. Couldn't turn it off, move it or anything. Batteries in remote seemed good.

Long story short, we shut the whole coach down. Unplugged, inverter off, aux switch at door shut off, everything we could think of, and the light was still on.

Luckily a friend came to visit and climbed up on roof and removed bulb for me.

Looking thru the wiring diagram, it just appeared that the spot was butt spliced into marker light wires. So where was it getting power?

At home, my brother put bulb back in and now we could not get it to light up at all. Still need to test wires with meter, but this is confusing.

Anybody got any insight for me?

McDuff · 02-04-2007, 05:31 AM

Is there any way to "trip" those little push-in breakers?

I have traced the wiring for the spotlight and it is hot to a breaker. I want to try "reprogramming" the remote to the light, the instructions say you have to cut power to the light to do this. So I need to trip this breaker.

I am hopng that the 2 have "lost" connection and that is why I am having problem.

Alternately, would cutting off coach power at the door Aux switch, cut power to the main 12v breaker panel? This could accomplish the same thing.

rick_od · 02-04-2007, 08:16 AM

cutting off the coach power at the aux switch is supposed to cut power to the coach. But, you stated in your first post that you traced the wires back to a butt splice to the marker lights which are probably connected to the chassis battery. Do you have a disconnect for the chassis battery.
p.s. I don't know any way to pull those flush breakers.

McDuff · 02-04-2007, 09:31 AM

Yeah Rick,

I thought at first it was connected to the marker lights,as one section of diagram showed butt splices "for spotlight", but I made a bad assumption it was to the marker lights.

I found the real wire in diagram and the spotlight is on the same breaker as my fog lights, only there is nothing between it and the breaker. So unfortunately it is still on the chassis battery I guess, which could be bad news for de-powering it.

If I can't pull that breaker, guess I'll have to have my brother help disconnect the battery. bummer.

rick_od · 02-04-2007, 10:49 AM

If you have access to the wires, turn off the battery switch and check the spotlight wires with a meter. I saw someones suggestion over at rv.net but I think he is talking about a different fuse assembly. If you are talking about the flush white breakers with the amp rating on the front...I know of no way to get it to trip...other than shorting a wire some place. But, I wouldn't recomend that.

Moder2 · 02-04-2007, 11:00 AM

Rick,

There is no way to trip that breaker, so you have a couple options...

1. Disconnect the chassis batts. The '03's didn't have a disconnect system for the chassis yet, so you will have to pull the cables from the batts.

2. Disconenct the feed from the B.I.R.D. Selenoid to the fuse panel. It is in the same compartment (Forward Driver's side) as the chassis "Aux" breaker panel is.

3. Clip the wire, and reconnect it. Which is most likely the easiest way, and the way I would probally do it. I would consider adding spade terminals instead of just a butt connector so if you need to cut power again it is just a matter of pulling the conenctor apart.

John

McDuff · 02-05-2007, 04:56 AM

Thanks Guys,

Y'all are correct on the breaker type.

I don't have access to the wires, as my compartment has additional equipment in it. I have pneumatic handcontrols for driving and the compressor/tank is in here, making simple access very un-simple.

Guess I will have to bite the bullet and disconnect the batts. I like your thinking on the spades Moder, sure hope I don't have to do this too many times.

Appreciate y'alls input a lot though.