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Old 11-27-2010, 09:38 PM   #1
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Tripping Breakers

Hi-- I have a 2003 Winnebago Journey DL. For some reason, the breakers labeled "receptacle 2" and "microwave" on the inverter breaker panel keep tripping. In looking at the Winnebago wiring diagram, these breakers appear to have some receptacles in common (if that is even possible) and it would make sense they would both trip together. Anyone have any suggestion on what may be wrong here. Your help is appreciated. Thank You.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:53 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by stardalo View Post
Hi-- I have a 2003 Winnebago Journey DL. For some reason, the breakers labeled "receptacle 2" and "microwave" on the inverter breaker panel keep tripping. In looking at the Winnebago wiring diagram, these breakers appear to have some receptacles in common (if that is even possible) and it would make sense they would both trip together. Anyone have any suggestion on what may be wrong here. Your help is appreciated. Thank You.
You may have to rule out a short circuit so that could require you to disassemble the plugs in the circuit and look for a fault. I'd start at the first plug in the circuit and work toward the back. The microwave should be on it's own circuit. Check the GFCI receptacle on the Circuit 2 if present.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:02 PM   #3
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I am thinking you are right. One thing I think I should look at first is the push button fuse on the actual inverter itself. If thats not it, then I guess I will be reassembling all the outlets looking for a short.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:37 PM   #4
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Don't know, but if this is a kitchen circuit, I would be looking at the GFCI first. When mine pops, and it happens often with a toaster oven, everything in the kitchen goes away.
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:12 AM   #5
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Which model of the 2003 Journey DL do you have? The "Body, 110V Wiring Diagram" for your coach on the Winnebago site should provide all the necessary details. There shouldn't be any connection between those two circuits--the only thing on the microwave circuit is the microwave.
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:01 PM   #6
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i pulled up the wiring diagram online first. it appears that the microwave has 2 other 110 volt outlets on the same line. maybe i am reading it wrong.
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:30 PM   #7
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Can you tell me which model you have so that I can pull up the correct diagram?
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:56 PM   #8
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The model is the Journey 36 LD. It has the 330 Cat engine. Thank you for all of your help. I appreciate it.
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Old 11-28-2010, 02:40 PM   #9
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Ok, this is the Body, 110 Volt Wiring Diagram for your coach, and this is the 110V Load Center/Auto Transfer Switch diagram. Looking at the Load Center diagram on page 5 we can see that the Microwave is on a 15A breaker with a BLK wire and Receps 2 is on a 15A Breaker with a BRN wire.

Looking at page 3 of the Wiring Diagram we can see that the BLK wire for the Microwave goes directly from the circuit breaker to the receptaclefor the Microwave (the two things labelled "110V Connection" are not outlets--they are just plugs where different parts of the wiring harness are connected together).

The BRN wire for the Receps 2 circuit goes from the circuit breaker to the receptacle for the dust buster charger and then to the 2 galley receptacles (the first of which is a GFCI). It appears that this harness follows the same path as the microwave one, with connectors below the washer/dryer cabinet and below the galley.

Perhaps both of these have been damaged in some way by something going wrong in the slideout operation. If you take a look at page 3 of the Body, 110 Volt Wiring Installation diagram you can see where the wires go and Detail BB shows the connections. I would see if you can locate those connectors--if you can I would try disconnecting them first under the galley. If the circuit breakers don't trip once the galley connector is undone then the problem must be somewhere between that connector and the receptacles. If they still trip then the problem must be between that connector and the circuit breaker--in that case I would then try disconnecting the connection under the washer/dryer and see what happens.

Hopefully this will help you to track down the source of your problem.
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Old 11-28-2010, 04:22 PM   #10
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Awesome advice! Thank you!!!
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:30 PM   #11
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Are you the original owner?
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:51 AM   #12
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I am not the original owner. I bought it in July of 2009.

Some background on the situation of the circuit breaker problem. I am one of the owners that has added a roof air conditioning unit to the motor home. I ran a dedicated wire for the A/C and it also has its own dedicated circuit. The a/c runs great (knock on wood) and does not trip any breakers or anything. However, I am thinking I better check in the breaker panel bc maybe I knocked something loose while adding the ac circuit.

I used the ac and all on one weekend trip and the current circuits that are giving me a problem now, all worked perfectly.

The problem began while I was in Myrtle Beach, at Ocean Lakes. I had a full 50 amp hookup. My washer / dryer was on the dry cycle and the convection oven was going. Boom, the circuit popped. When it popped, the a/c compressors kicked off as well, only the fans were still blowing. I had to go outside, throw off the 50 amp circuit and click it back on. Everything else worked fine then but the 2 circuits that are in question now would not turn back on. Weird. Any other possible suggestions knowing this background? Thank you all for your help.
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:11 PM   #13
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I found the problem today. It appears that both connections are actually fairly easy to access. They are both quick connect connection. I noticed the one under the washer dryer cabinet had some black burn on it like it shorted. I disconnected, turned breaker on and short was gone. I think what may have happened is that my washer dryer overflowed and caused the wires to burn out. I temporalily connected all back with wire nuts and all works good now. I am going to put some sort of outdoor splice box there just in case such a thing happens again. thank you for your help.
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:04 PM   #14
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some electrical stores have a seal bag that they use in military and space that will seal the circuit after you blow dry it closed.
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:35 PM   #15
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...They are both quick connect connection. I noticed the one under the washer dryer cabinet had some black burn on it like it shorted. I disconnected, turned breaker on and short was gone. I think what may have happened is that my washer dryer overflowed and caused the wires to burn out. I temporalily connected all back with wire nuts and all works good now. I am going to put some sort of outdoor splice box there just in case such a thing happens again. thank you for your help.
No, water by itself, just spilling on connectors, will not cause that. The water might cause corrosion that leads to connector/crimp damage, but water = black doesn't work. Water = corrosion = high resistance connection = black does.

Crimp connectors are EXTREMELY difficult to apply (the term used when talking about crimping them on wires) and require special machinery, skilled people and careful testing. I did the engineering on machine wiring for a certain robotics setup and even with expen$ive crimp tools and best-there-is connectors and wire, they were a nightmare to apply. Many failures. 1/10 failures at times. Crimping terminals on wire is a mixture of art and science...

The black is from severe overheating. A little water will conduct current, and evaporate. Thats about it. Yes, itll possibly blow a breaker, but should not cause black connectors. A blown breaker is "instantly" - charred black takes time. One terminal charring wont cause a blown breaker-that takes a short-circuit, so the terminal insulation may have melted and then shorted.

The reason Im elaborating the point is the fire hazard. "Black" is extreme heat, up to thousands of degrees F, worst case. Plastics melt or char at a few hundred degrees, wires (copper & aluminum) melt at I think > 1000* F. Not a problem to take lightly in wiring concealed in a compartment near where you sleep. A few hundred, or a thousand, are enough to start fires.

Wire nut, yes, just be careful to use good quality wire nuts (hard shell) and make sure the wires twist 3 times, do not poke through the plastic shell, and pull the nut to make sure no wires are loose, no copper visible at the open end.

If water exposure is a problem, wrap the terminals with PVC tape.
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