I had issues with the Thin-Lite lights in our Journey, but the problems presented themselves as interference with radios and other electronic devices.
What was happening is the electronic ballast iside the fixture runs in a very warm enviroment. This ballast has an electrolytic capacitor which doesn't (in my opinion) have a high enough voltage rating and is degraded by the temperature enough to fail.
Electrolytic capacitors fail in one of two ways. When good, a capacitor should appear as an open circuit to a DC voltage once they charge. If you put a ohmmeter across them, the meter will quickly read a resistance as the capacitor charges, then read a open circuit if the capacitor is good. When they fail, they begin to conduct DC as the dielectric inside the capacitor breaks down. Soon after passing current through them, they
Usually fail open as they conduct a large amount of current which typically blows the end out of the capacitor followed by in immediate opening of the circuit when the termination wire on the capacitor separates from the wound foil layers inside it.
Sometimes though, the failure of the cap is accompanied with smoke, or a burning smell as the current passed through the cap overloads it but often times the parts just spit out a small amount of the melted dielectric insulation.
In my case, they failed very undramaticly, by just opening up with a spatter of dielectric at one end. If that happens in the Thin Lite fixture, you can actually change the capacitor with one of similar value, but a higher working voltage and temperature rating and the fixture will work again. If I recall, I think I used a higher capacitance capacitor as well as higher temp and working voltage. Since it's just a filter and not in any type of timing circuit, a higher capacitance is OK.
I installed this capacitor in each of my fixtures. Two were as repairs for failures, and one was as a preventative measure.
You might be able to read, it's rated 63V at 125 degrees C.