surge guard

[JC2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jk_and_dog:
Rocket Heart....do surge protectors come with the computer you bought....no...why not?? $$

I would not be without one either on my computer in the rv or at the house. I may be running on my generator and what happens if i get a surge from it....same holds true for the rv park pedestal to the rv. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

We were at a KOA in KS last Aug and had our MH hooked to a 50A portable surge guard when the power kept going out. Our SG shut us down when the incoming voltage went to 130+. Wouldn't be without one. Even though we were checking out, I explained this to the Mgr and he stated, "I thought I had the power problem fixed".

[Blue74]

I had a different brand that was a 30 Amp. and it had shut down several times during thunder storm at the Grand Canyon. I don't have one in my current trailer but it is something I plan on adding later this year. In the summer of 05 the park I am in had a transformer burn out and when it did it took out my microwave and two small surge protector (entertainment & computer) and a transformer on the basement A/C. APS paid to replace the surge protectors and repair the A/C and prorated the microwave. Worth it not having to deal with an insurance company.

Paul

[Amendment2bobbo]

I am a big believer in surge protectors. Personally I have the Progressive Industries product, but I definately recommend having SOMETHING.

[porscheracer]

Purely on topic: I wouldn't be without a surge guard. Since a lot of the campgrounds we go to are in the boonies, lousy power regulation is rampant.

A short disseration on the 50/30 adapters:
Since our Vectra has basement air and a heat pump, 50A is almost mandatory most of the year. We have one of the adapters. After looking at it - you can build one yourself for about 1/3 of price, if you're an electrician.

Essentially, the run the two hot leads from two outlets to the two 50A hot terminals, and bond the ground and neutral to the proper lugs. A properly wired 50A RV plug is actually a 240v circuit.

The units work reasonably well, but can overload a pair of 30's, or a 30/20 combination - they are not intelligent devices, as I'd hoped, for $100. They will work best on any RV with an unintelligent control system - many of them only care that there is voltage on both of the +lugs. However, if you have an intelligent controller (like in the Vectra) is will only sense 30A unless you have the two leads plugged into different legs of the circuit. This may take some experimenting with the pedestal - or you may be out of luck (I've seen them wired both ways).

Good luck!!

[historyljc]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">if you're an electrician </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Right there is where you overloaded my tractor. That's why I pay others to do these things. I'm glad there are guys like you around who understand this stuff.

[Paulin]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">A short disseration on the 50/30 adapters:
Since our Vectra has basement air and a heat pump, 50A is almost mandatory most of the year. We have one of the adapters. After looking at it - you can build one yourself for about 1/3 of price, if you're an electrician.

Essentially, the run the two hot leads from two outlets to the two 50A hot terminals, and bond the ground and neutral to the proper lugs. A properly wired 50A RV plug is actually a 240v circuit. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Porscheracer,

Are you talking about a 50 to 30 amp adapter like the dog bone ones? What you describe sounds more like a so called "cheater box" which uses both the 30 amp and 20 amp receptacles in the pedestal.