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Old 02-24-2014, 07:57 PM   #1
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Step Alarm Fuse

While pulling into the campground this weekend, the backup camera monitor shut off on our 2003 Brave 34D W20. I traced this to a blown Step Alarm fuse. I replaced the fuse and it blew again as soon as I tuned on the ignition. After doing some searching here, I did a little troubleshooting at the camp site.

Disconnected the backup monitor power, replaced fuse. Fuse blew when turning on ignition
Disconnected the 12v switch feed to the battery isolator (yellow wire). Fuse blew again
Disconnected the power step from the harness under the motorhome. Fuse blew again
Disconnected the MotorAid heater blower at the dash switch. Yep, fuse blew again.

So I am thinking I have a short to ground in one of the 4 circuits or Iím missing something. Am I testing each circuit correctly? How can I isolate a short in the 4 circuits if I have to go that route?

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:35 AM   #2
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WinBrave, were is the Step Alarm fuse located, I cannot find it on the drawings?
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:41 AM   #3
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If the fuse blew in ALL 4 of your tests then the problem is with another circuit. If the fuse blew in only 1 of your tests then that would be the circuit with the issue. You'll need to look deeper into the system.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:27 PM   #4
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WinBrave, were is the Step Alarm fuse located, I cannot find it on the drawings?
The fuse is located in the right top corner of the fusebox under the dash. Our 03 has a 15 amp (yellow) fuse, but I have heard it can be 5 to 20 amp depending on year.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:32 PM   #5
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If the fuse blew in ALL 4 of your tests then the problem is with another circuit. If the fuse blew in only 1 of your tests then that would be the circuit with the issue. You'll need to look deeper into the system.
I agree. I'm thinking there is either a grounded circuit or I'm missing a circuit to check. Because the fuse pops immediately when I turn on the ignition, it sounds like failed component rather than a short due to a worn wire. I will continue to dig.
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:54 PM   #6
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WinBrave, the circuit that is blowing the fuse is actually called "Run Only Power Source" and is wire number KE except where it goes to the electric step and it changes to wire number WH after going through a 6 amp beaker located in the step box called "Electric Step Ignition".
First thing I would do is get a good ohm meter and connect it between ground and the load side of the fuse, much better than blowing fuses. Keep ignition key OFF!!
There is a 30 pin connector in the floor on the left side under the dash (drawing 141423 21-D) that will isolate between the chassis wiring going to the electric step and the wires around the Instrument Panel . Drawing 141423 will show you some more connectors and switches that wire KE feeds. Make sure you are using the one for W-20 chassis. There is some small print above the title block that tells which chassis the drawing is for.
Good Luck!!
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:47 PM   #7
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WinBrave, the circuit that is blowing the fuse is actually called "Run Only Power Source" and is wire number KE except where it goes to the electric step and it changes to wire number WH after going through a 6 amp beaker located in the step box called "Electric Step Ignition".
First thing I would do is get a good ohm meter and connect it between ground and the load side of the fuse, much better than blowing fuses. Keep ignition key OFF!!
There is a 30 pin connector in the floor on the left side under the dash (drawing 141423 21-D) that will isolate between the chassis wiring going to the electric step and the wires around the Instrument Panel . Drawing 141423 will show you some more connectors and switches that wire KE feeds. Make sure you are using the one for W-20 chassis. There is some small print above the title block that tells which chassis the drawing is for.
Good Luck!!
This is great information. Thank you. I will pull out the ohm meter this weekend and see what I can find.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:46 PM   #8
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Just a quick update on this thread. I actually had 2 problems which made troubleshooting more difficult. The battery boost solenoid was bad which caused the fuse to blow. Also, in the middle of testing the Sony backup monitor went bad and will not power on. I'm sure all the fuses popping didn't help.

I replaced the original solenoid with a NAPA ST80 continuous use solenoid. This is a direct fit with the exception of an additional ground wire. The battery boost switch and auto power step now work. The house batteries are now charging at 14v with the engine running. The Sony monitor is also getting 12v power.

I'm going to call RVCAMs in the morning to see if they have any ideas.
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