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Old 03-01-2013, 11:11 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Cass Sumrall View Post
I really don't understand the 50A/30A thing yet. This MH will be 30A & the online manual says not to plug in to a 50A supply.
I believe you misread that. There is no reason to not plug into a 50A service. The 20/30/50A designations are limits of current draw not amounts forced. Current draw is determined by the equipment in the RV.

If you try to draw more current than the source can supply, the breaker will blow.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:42 AM   #22
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If one plugs a 30 wired coach into a 50A capable circuit, they will be connecting to a source that exceeds the wiring capability for the load. It is understood that the 30A wired RV will have a 30A breaker, but between the breaker and the 50A service is the 10Ga cord and the power transfer switch. These components will be designed for 30A and while it is unlikely anything would go wrong between the breaker and the 30A plugin to the 50A outlet. Technically the extension of a 50A fused circuit by 30A rated wire would not meet specs.

A lot of people use a 50A male to 30A female dogbone, but there is a risk nonetheless.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:02 PM   #23
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I too would put in a 50 amp drop. It's already sized for a future upgrade and you can use a dog bone adapter for your 30 amp rig. The last poster said that there is some risk doing this and that is true but the risk is small. It's small because even though the cord from the RV to the pole is sized for 30 amps and you are plugging it into a 50 amp supply. There is a breaker in the rig that limits current pulled from the rig to 30 amps.The only way you could hurt the drop cord is if there was a small short between the drop cable where it's plugged into the supply and the trailer. It's remotely possible that condition would melt the drop cable from the supply to the short but it is very remote. I support the upgrade because it's way expensive to remove old wiring, upgrade the conduit and recepticle and box once undersized wiring is installed. It's way more cost efficient to put in a 50 amp service to start with and a second box can be hung there with a 30 amp breaker and recepticle if so desired.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:03 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by hamguy View Post
I believe you misread that. There is no reason to not plug into a 50A service. The 20/30/50A designations are limits of current draw not amounts forced. Current draw is determined by the equipment in the RV.

If you try to draw more current than the source can supply, the breaker will blow.

On the contrary, that is what the manual says. See the next post by Libero.

I guess there is also the risk that the 30A breaker could fail to work & allow damage to electrical components from 50A supply.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:18 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Cass Sumrall

On the contrary, that is what the manual says. See the next post by Libero.

I guess there is also the risk that the 30A breaker could fail to work & allow damage to electrical components from 50A supply.
The manual is obviously lawyer proofed. The fact is that 30 amp RVs are often hooked up to 50 amp supply using a standard adapter. It's common practice in campgrounds where the 30 amp receptacles are heavily worn and the 50 amp is not. If you choose to following the lawyers then simply don't buy a 30/50 adapter and you will never be tempted. May never be an issue anyway.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:29 PM   #26
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I have a 30T, and I will try to remember to measure the cord for you tomorrow. The bay is on the DR. side, just in front of the Gen compartment.(Last compartment). The elect.bay is about 4 ft from the end of the coach. The coach is 30ft, 11in. The transfer switch is on the elect. bay right wall looking into the bay, and the cord connects there. As stated before, be sure you get an RV type recepticle for your home power box. I sugesst you wire the box for 30amp and a breaker in the box so you can plug into a dead outlet if desired.
I just measured my cord. It is 29ft, 9in. from the male end to where it is connected to the ATS. You will loose about 2 ft when putting it out the access hole in the bottom of the floor of the compartment. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:36 PM   #27
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I just measured my cord. It is 29ft, 9in. from the male end to where it is connected to the ATS. You will loose about 2 ft when putting it out the access hole in the bottom of the floor of the compartment. Hope this helps.
Yes, that helps - thanks!
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:53 PM   #28
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Just a thought on the 50 amp dilemma. Why not wire out for the 50 amp, but install a 30 amp breaker. If the need ever arose for the full 50 amps, then change out the breaker.
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Old 03-01-2013, 04:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by awwall
Just a thought on the 50 amp dilemma. Why not wire out for the 50 amp, but install a 30 amp breaker. If the need ever arose for the full 50 amps, then change out the breaker.
Perfect solution. Great idea.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:37 PM   #30
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papaw.1

X10 on the upgrade to the 50amp.I wired a 50 amp service in my garage last year.I am really glad I did.It is alot cheaper to go ahead and do it now instead of down the road saying I wish I had 50 amp.I always say hindsight is 20/20.Good Luck and Many Safe and Happy Miles and Smiles.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:22 AM   #31
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I agree re wiring for 50A if at all possible from the getgo, but since one will need a special arrangement to connect a 6ga wire to a 30A plug, such as a breaker panel, it is just as easy for a few extra $ to put an outdoor box that has 50/30/20 breakers and corresponding RV plugs.

Regardless of how you rig your power outlet, I suggest one should always have a breaker at the post to shut the power off before connecting and disconnecting, especially in very wet conditions.

Good luck with whatever option you choose,
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:51 AM   #32
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I just measured my cord. It is 29ft, 9in. from the male end to where it is connected to the ATS. You will loose about 2 ft when putting it out the access hole in the bottom of the floor of the compartment. Hope this helps.
Very nice guy to go to that trouble.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:42 AM   #33
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On the contrary, that is what the manual says. See the next post by Libero.

I guess there is also the risk that the 30A breaker could fail to work & allow damage to electrical components from 50A supply.
Not to be critical but you need a course in remedial electricity.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:55 AM   #34
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My Aspect is plugged into 50amp all the time at home. I use the dog bone adapter to make it a 30 amp conn.

Same thing may have to do in some RV parks.

My 50 amp does NOT have a 30 amp breaker either.
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:49 PM   #35
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Not to be critical but you need a course in remedial electricity.
Do you really think saying "Not to be critical but" makes your statement not critical? I believe I stated at the outset that I have a lot to learn about electricity as related to MH's.

But I really appreciate all the suggestions of others on this forum who have actually tried to be helpful & who have tried to give accurate answers to my questions.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:30 AM   #36
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Here is wiring info for 50amp service.

http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/50-amp%20Service.pdf
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