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Old 01-16-2019, 08:56 AM   #1
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Running extension cord INTO my minnie?

Trying to figure out the best way to run an extension cord INTO my 2500RL minnie to take advantage of the 120v receptacles on the power pole. Could I also maybe add an inlet plug I can plug into from the outside that will run to an outlet plug inside the trailer. I understand that I would have to add a plug inside. Has anyone added plugs to their trailer? Lots of questions I know. Our first hardside and I'm trying to learn.
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Old 01-16-2019, 10:33 AM   #2
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I am probably missing something but why not just plug the 30 amp power cord into the "power pole" using an adapter. If all you need is the outlets to work that would do it. Obviously running high load appliances like the AC would not be a good idea.
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Old 01-16-2019, 10:36 AM   #3
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Why not use an adapter and plug your 30AMP cord into the power pole and limit what you use on the rig to 20 amps or less? Maybe I don't understand the whole picture...
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:09 AM   #4
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Clearing it up.

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Originally Posted by Dave11 View Post
I am probably missing something but why not just plug the 30 amp power cord into the "power pole" using an adapter. If all you need is the outlets to work that would do it. Obviously running high load appliances like the AC would not be a good idea.
Thanks for your reply Dave 11 and IOS 3

Let me try to clear it up a bit.

My main purpose and thought is that I want to use a space heater to help heat the trailer instead of burning my propane. By plugging into the poles 120v plug, I could use my toaster, hair dryer, etc without popping the breakers. I will still utilize my 30A plug to power the trailer but this will give me more power. Am I thinking this all wrong?
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:11 AM   #5
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See my reply IOS 3 and thank you for yours.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:09 PM   #6
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I see. It would seem like you would be OK running a single space heater off your 30 amp service since it is likely similar in power draw to the roof air, which you wouldn't be running. So maybe you don't need the additional cord... I have a surge protector that I use between my RV and the power pole. The surge protector tells me the amp load on the rig at any time, and I have been able to do things like you are discussing safely since I can see how much current these various things draw. I would suggest plugging the space heater into a non GFI plug, and a circuit separate from toasters and hair dryers given the load of each of these… Good luck!
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:19 PM   #7
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Thank you sir!
Now my next problem is how to get the cord into the trailer without going through a window or door. I have looked all around the slide and there doesn't seem to be an opening large enough to slip a plug through. I hate drilling holes (especially if I don't know what's behind it) and I can't see any possible openings from underneath the trailer. I have thought of maybe going into a cargo space and coming in through underneath the bed storage box. What got me to thinking about all this is the artic blast coming our way. The campsite temps were to be in the teens overnight. Just looking for some options.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:53 PM   #8
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The RV Geeks did a on this very topic that you might get some ideas from. If the link isn't working, it's on YouTube called "Installing Our Winter RVing Secret Weapon"
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Old 01-16-2019, 02:49 PM   #9
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Thank you sir!
Now my next problem is how to get the cord into the trailer without going through a window or door. I have looked all around the slide and there doesn't seem to be an opening large enough to slip a plug through. I hate drilling holes (especially if I don't know what's behind it) and I can't see any possible openings from underneath the trailer. I have thought of maybe going into a cargo space and coming in through underneath the bed storage box. What got me to thinking about all this is the artic blast coming our way. The campsite temps were to be in the teens overnight. Just looking for some options.
You may have missed the points made previous here.

If you have AC sockets in your trailer, you will have an AC cord from the trailer to plug into your hookup pole. Have you done that?

As mentioned, depending on your extension cord, you need to be careful to not overload it. Cords are rated for certain amps. Learn what you have, what you're going to power, and add up the amps/watts. All appliances are labeled with their power requirements, such as a small space heater can require 750 to 1500 watts, which is about 7 to 13amps (1500watts/120V=12.5amps). Do the math, and plug your trailer into the pole instead of bringing an extension cord into your trailer.

If you already have your trailer plugged to the pole and you're popping a circuit breaker in the trailer, then your idea of an extension cord for more power makes sense, somewhat. In that case bringing in a second line seems logical, however it's not easy for the reasons you point out. Trailers were NOT designed to do that, due to safety hazards. It's really not advised, but I'm sure folks in Arkansas are doing it (no offense to my brother who lives in Arkansas, hah!), and living to tell about it.

I would suggest try running the cord through a sliding window if this is a temporary situation, and use a strip of closed cell foam to fill the crack above the cord. Be careful.
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:09 PM   #10
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You may have missed the points made previous here.

If you have AC sockets in your trailer, you will have an AC cord from the trailer to plug into your hookup pole. Have you done that?

As mentioned, depending on your extension cord, you need to be careful to not overload it. Cords are rated for certain amps. Learn what you have, what you're going to power, and add up the amps/watts. All appliances are labeled with their power requirements, such as a small space heater can require 750 to 1500 watts, which is about 7 to 13amps (1500watts/120V=12.5amps). Do the math, and plug your trailer into the pole instead of bringing an extension cord into your trailer.

If you already have your trailer plugged to the pole and you're popping a circuit breaker in the trailer, then your idea of an extension cord for more power makes sense, somewhat. In that case bringing in a second line seems logical, however it's not easy for the reasons you point out. Trailers were NOT designed to do that, due to safety hazards. It's really not advised, but I'm sure folks in Arkansas are doing it (no offense to my brother who lives in Arkansas, hah!), and living to tell about it.

I would suggest try running the cord through a sliding window if this is a temporary situation, and use a strip of closed cell foam to fill the crack above the cord. Be careful.
John, I totally understand the points made here. I'm well aware that I have a 30 amp power cord to plug into the pole or shore power as some call it. All my appliances, plugs, receptacles, work just fine. What I am asking is in extreme cold weather, if I want to run a small ceramic space heater to heat my trailer or just supplement the propane (after all, isn't the parks electricity that I have already paid for cheaper than my propane?) I also understand wattage and amps. Running a small heater plugged into an outside source would allow me more wattage/amps to do other things without overloading my circuits and having to reset breakers. And it would be cost saving too. I was just needing to find an opening without going thru a window or door. I hope this clears it up some.
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:41 PM   #11
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Thank you very much. This is exactly what I want to do long term. My only problem is with the TT I don't have the power cord opening the guy in the video has. I don't want to leave a cargo hatch open so I was hoping I could find another opening I could slip a cord and plug through with short term use. I appreciate you sharing the video. It's what I needed to see.
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Old 01-16-2019, 05:21 PM   #12
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You could install one of these at a convenient location for an outlet on the inside:

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-150.../dp/B002QALLOQ

Although it qualifies as a long-term solution, it wouldn't take too long to install. They're also available in 20A versions.

Otherwise, my vote is for the foam in the window, or alternatively, cut some foam to seal a cargo hatch that has access to the inside of your coach.
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Old 01-16-2019, 06:18 PM   #13
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Thank you Bob!
This definitely is the best way to go long term. Safer, better looking than cords across the floor and it all blends in with the interior. I just didn't want to leave a hatch door open if I could help it. I have the minnie TT. Thank you for the suggestion and your research.
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Old 01-22-2019, 04:36 PM   #14
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Have you actually tried to plug the small ceramic space heater into your existing 30A system? You may be trying to do something that is not necessary. What "other things" are you figuring on using that will trip breakers if the heater is also in use?
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