Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-08-2014, 03:49 PM   #1
Winnebago Watcher
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3
Running chassis engine

I purchased a 31ft. Winnebago Sightseer in late summer. I live in Wisconsin where it gets cold in the winter. I have an open ended shed where I plan on storing it during the winter months. I would like to run the generator and start the engine to charge up the batteries and make sure that everything is ok. I did go onto another site and read a thread where a person advised that running the engine (chassis) without moving the RV would cause great harm to the engine. I do not understand why this would be. Does anyone have a logical answer as to why this would harm the engine? Also, how often should I do this, and is there anything else I should be doing to preserve the RV during the winter months, other than talking my wife into loading it up and heading for southern Texas. As you can see, I am new to the RV world, and any help I can get would be appreciated.

Ferrar
Ferrar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2014, 03:58 PM   #2
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 129
you are not going to hurt your engine when you want it just make sure you get it up to operating temperature it would not hurt to put your transmission into drive and reverse to keep the seals lubricated
fla tom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2014, 04:07 PM   #3
Winnebago Master
 
Cooperhawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: 5 miles south of Lakeville, Mn
Posts: 516
Absolutely, it will do no harm to warm it up from time to time. There are lots of naysayers on this forum. Just use common sense.
__________________
Jim and Carol Cooper with Oreo the Kitty
FAA ATC ret, VFW, Legion, VVA, NRA
2012 Journey 36M, Cummins 360hp, 2015 Ford Explorer Blue Ox, AF1
Cooperhawk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2014, 04:07 PM   #4
Winnebago Owner
 
JohnRR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP"
Posts: 219
:welcome:
Good luck with your search.
__________________
John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L W24
08 Lincoln MKX AWD
See My RV Upgrades
JohnRR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2014, 09:14 PM   #5
Winnebago Camper
 
khogle2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: UTAH
Posts: 46
This is what Ford printed in their owners manual. Not sure if your motorhome is an older one which could be GM. Shouldn't matter.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-896538345.jpg
Views:	283
Size:	157.5 KB
ID:	53551  
khogle2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2014, 09:17 PM   #6
Winnebago Camper
 
khogle2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: UTAH
Posts: 46
For some reason, the other photo,won't load on the first post. Page 2.
Note that they recommend moving the vehicle 25 feet or so. That will coat the differential gears with lube to prevent rust. FYI.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2733544686.jpg
Views:	241
Size:	115.7 KB
ID:	53552  
khogle2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2014, 07:38 AM   #7
Winnebago Owner
 
JMonroe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Lake Greenwood, Cross Hill SC
Posts: 86
We're also from Wisconsin. We stored not only our motorhome each winter, but my '99 Camaro continues to be stored for six months each year.

IF you're going to start the engine, you need to run it for about 20 minutes PAST reaching full operating temps. Better yet, just leave it alone.

Much of the wear on a long idle engine is from start up. The Camaro is now 15 years old and it was never started during it's long winter naps. There have been no issues related to the long stretches of non-use. I do add a stabilizer to the gas before storage and I always hooked up the battery up to a maintenance charger. The last couple of years I've not had access to electric power where it is stored so I simply disconnect the battery. It's popped right off every spring.

Today's lubricant's are much better than those available 50 years ago, protecting against internal corrosion for a much longer time (remember the old days of pouring Marvel Mystery Oil down the carb?) I think you're less likely to do harm by leaving it alone until you can actually drive it out of the barn.
__________________
Jay & Peggy Monroe with Dolly
Can't take it with you - don't plan on leaving any behind
2016 Newmar London Aire 4553, Spartan chassis
2017 GMC Acadia toad
JMonroe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2014, 07:59 AM   #8
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 166
Running the engine up to temp and holding it there for 20 to 30 minutes won't hurt it. As said above lub oils are much better today than 10 yrs ago. Running at temp will help remove moisture from engine and block, lub bearings, shafts etc. Moving the vehicle around block to relub transmission and seals also a good idea. I do mine on a monthly basis when it sets for more than 4 weeks which isn't too often. I typically will drive a few miles so steering and upper gears also get work out.
jk_and_dog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2014, 11:12 AM   #9
Winnebago Master
 
FIRE UP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 1,740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrar View Post
I purchased a 31ft. Winnebago Sightseer in late summer. I live in Wisconsin where it gets cold in the winter. I have an open ended shed where I plan on storing it during the winter months. I would like to run the generator and start the engine to charge up the batteries and make sure that everything is ok. I did go onto another site and read a thread where a person advised that running the engine (chassis) without moving the RV would cause great harm to the engine. I do not understand why this would be. Does anyone have a logical answer as to why this would harm the engine? Also, how often should I do this, and is there anything else I should be doing to preserve the RV during the winter months, other than talking my wife into loading it up and heading for southern Texas. As you can see, I am new to the RV world, and any help I can get would be appreciated.

Ferrar
Ferrar,
As you can see, most recommend the fact that you can run the engine in place without actually driving it and, there will be no harm done. Now, yes, that will work. However, if you're going to do that, keep this in mind. Running that diesel inside a shed, in a possible "unvented" situation, you can build up a ton of vapors/exhaust/smoke/soot/blow-by and more. That's not a very healthy situation, to say the least. Even opening all the windows you may have, is not enough to vent that kind of situation.,

I know that it may present a kind of a pain situation but, if you're going to run it for that long anyway, then why not take the coach out and, run it along the roads in your area and put "real loads" on it? That way, you can run the generator, and, you're exersizing all the seals, brakes, air system valves, trans seals, wheel bearing seals, steering system (power steering seals) and a whole lot more. Yes, they're definitely a better design and chemical makeup than yesteryear but, it's just a recommendation.

And, just running a big diesel in place, trying to get it to operating temp, without any form of load on it, takes forever and a year. Putting a load on it takes a lot shorter time and, you've not coated the walls, ceiling and more with all that diesel, TRYING to get it to operating temp. Good luck.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '08 GL 1800 Gold Wing
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
FIRE UP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2014, 03:01 PM   #10
Winnebago Watcher
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3
I want to thank everybody for the positive feedback to my questions on running the chassis engine during winter storage. Everybody replied with knowledgeable answers and no one made fun of me for not knowing what to do. I think I am going to enjoy this site, as there seems to be a lot of knowledgeable and interesting people here. One more dumb question, what do the little campfire symbols below each posters name represent?

Ferrar
Ferrar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2014, 03:14 PM   #11
Winnebago Camper
 
Clayobx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Willow Lakes RV & Golf Resort, FL
Posts: 39
:welcome: the camp fires are representative of the number of post the member has accumulated over time. There are certain "goals" that give you a camp fire. For example, 100 post equals one fire. Etc. is your engine gas or diesel? Does it have DEF? Is it a Cummins?
__________________
Clay & Pebble.. Miss Butter our sweet Goldie (Jan. 2005-Jan. 2015) Sissy our Border Collie
2012 Providence 42 M. Spartan Chassis, 450 ISL
Ford Edge toad, RM All Terrane, TST TPMS, SMI Air Force One, RVM95....
Clayobx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2014, 03:17 PM   #12
Winnie-Wise
 
Clifftall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 307
Welcome to the forum.

Campfires. Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2930687802.jpg
Views:	242
Size:	185.4 KB
ID:	53579

Cliff
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Cliff,Tallulah and Buddy ( 1999-2012 )
Clifftall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2014, 05:05 PM   #13
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Claremore, Ok.
Posts: 9
During the off season I drive my motor home every couple of weeks. I take it out on the road at highway speeds. This warms it up to operating temp fast and lubricates everything. I was told that as the engine, transmission, etc. cool down moisture can form and settle to the bottom. Driving it until you reach operating temp clears up the moisture. It's also good for the tires to run them now and then.

Good Luck and Safe Travels,
Bill
ko4nrbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2014, 05:23 PM   #14
Winnebago Master
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 560
OP: I know you don't have a Cummins diesel but for those that do Cummins says:
If you can't drive it at least 30 miles at highway speeds don't bother starting it. But driving the rig could be beneficial to other parts of the RV.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Lifetime GS Member, SKP, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2014, 11:24 AM   #15
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,080
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMonroe View Post
We're also from Wisconsin. We stored not only our motorhome each winter, but my '99 Camaro continues to be stored for six months each year.

IF you're going to start the engine, you need to run it for about 20 minutes PAST reaching full operating temps. Better yet, just leave it alone.

Much of the wear on a long idle engine is from start up. The Camaro is now 15 years old and it was never started during it's long winter naps. There have been no issues related to the long stretches of non-use. I do add a stabilizer to the gas before storage and I always hooked up the battery up to a maintenance charger. The last couple of years I've not had access to electric power where it is stored so I simply disconnect the battery. It's popped right off every spring.

Today's lubricant's are much better than those available 50 years ago, protecting against internal corrosion for a much longer time (remember the old days of pouring Marvel Mystery Oil down the carb?) I think you're less likely to do harm by leaving it alone until you can actually drive it out of the barn.
I agree for the most part. The only thing I would caution you about is as mentioned be sure to run it long enough to get the catalytic converter up to temperature and get all the moisture out of the exhaust system.

The only other downside to running both the generator and the chassis engine at the same time is that the chassis engine alternator takes precedence over the generator for charging the batteries. Essentially that means the generator won't be running under a load unless you use some other method to put a load on it. You can't run the AC's or the water heater, but you might try a space heater or some other appliance that uses a fair amount of electricity.

We also live in Wisconsin and have never needed to run the chassis engine during the cold winter months unless we plan to use the motorhome. Ours generally sits for 2 months or more with both the chassis and house batteries disconnected. About once a month I flip the switches to reconnect the batteries and run the generator for about an hour. We followed this procedure on our 2001 Adventurer for 12+ years (and over 100,000 miles) and never had a problem. I ran the generator for a little over an hour in our 2013 Adventurer a couple weeks ago. We'll be heading out in a few weeks so all should be well until then.
__________________
Hikerdogs
2013 Adventurer 32H
Hikerdogs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2014, 05:11 PM   #16
Winnebago Camper
 
khogle2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: UTAH
Posts: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hikerdogs View Post
I agree for the most part. The only thing I would caution you about is as mentioned be sure to run it long enough to get the catalytic converter up to temperature and get all the moisture out of the exhaust system. The only other downside to running both the generator and the chassis engine at the same time is that the chassis engine alternator takes precedence over the generator for charging the batteries. Essentially that means the generator won't be running under a load unless you use some other method to put a load on it. You can't run the AC's or the water heater, but you might try a space heater or some other appliance that uses a fair amount of electricity. We also live in Wisconsin and have never needed to run the chassis engine during the cold winter months unless we plan to use the motorhome. Ours generally sits for 2 months or more with both the chassis and house batteries disconnected. About once a month I flip the switches to reconnect the batteries and run the generator for about an hour. We followed this procedure on our 2001 Adventurer for 12+ years (and over 100,000 miles) and never had a problem. I ran the generator for a little over an hour in our 2013 Adventurer a couple weeks ago. We'll be heading out in a few weeks so all should be well until then.
JMonroe and Hikerdogs. Are these stored vehicles in warm or climate controlled garages or just ambient temperatures? I have always been interested in vehicle storage techniques, so not starting vehicles for months at a time is not something I have ever done. I have been starting my motorhome and running around the area to get the exhaust up to temp. That was one of my biggest concerns, exhaust moisture.

Thanks for the input.
khogle2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2014, 07:06 AM   #17
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,080
Ours is stored in an unheated or air conditioned garage. There are times when the ambient temperature goes as low as -25*F (like last week), and other times it's in the high 90's. We've never had any weather related problems. We are however very careful to get things up to "normal" temperatures when it's cold outside before loading and unloading the motorhome. Everything is more brittle in the cold, and the last thing you want to do is break something by carelessly bumping into it.
__________________
Hikerdogs
2013 Adventurer 32H
Hikerdogs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2014, 07:35 AM   #18
Winnebago Owner
 
JMonroe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Lake Greenwood, Cross Hill SC
Posts: 86
The Camaro has always been stored inside, but never in a heated/cooled building. Our motorhomes were always stored outside.
__________________
Jay & Peggy Monroe with Dolly
Can't take it with you - don't plan on leaving any behind
2016 Newmar London Aire 4553, Spartan chassis
2017 GMC Acadia toad
JMonroe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2014, 09:04 AM   #19
Winnebago Master
 
Petro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Weyauwega, WI US
Posts: 1,486
I am from Wisconsin also. My coach is stored in our large garage alongside our 2 cars. I do not take my coach out on the roads where there is any possibility of salt. I am in my 5th Class A and I learned a valuable lesson while taking my second coach out on the road in the winter. I had a friend who wanted to work on my rig when he was not so busy in January. I checked the roads and they were clear. When I went to pick it up the roads were clear but on the way home I ran over some areas where what appeared to be melting snow from the side of the road. I put it back in the garage for the rest of the winter. Come spring when I was readying my rig for travel I discovered I had a serious rust problem under it. That summer I treated rust when ever I could. I will never do that again. So my policy is I will never take my coach out on the roads in winter months unless I am heading south where I know I will likely be operating on rain soaked highways that wash off any salt accumulated in the snow & ice belt. I do not start my Horizon during the months of January and February. I believe it does more damage to the drive train than just letting it set. If I can find a mild day in each of those 2 months I will start up the generator for 30 minutes at half load.

Don
__________________
Don & Bev Morgan Weyauwega WI, 05 Itasca Horizon 40KD, 400 HP Cummins, Delorme GPS LT 40, Toad 07 Saturn Vue AWD, Air Force One, TST 510 TPMS, Mayor of Weyauwega 2007 - 2013, Waupaca Co Board Supervisor 2010 - 2014
Petro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2014, 09:37 AM   #20
Winnebago Watcher
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
Rust

If you leave an engine for long periods in an unheated location condensation becomes a factor. The engine will always have a number of valves in the open position, exhaust valve to be sure.

What will happen is that rust will form in the cylinders after a period of time in the cylinders that are open. Certainly a minute amount at first. But if you leave it for years a layer of rust will form. I have recently taken apart an engine I have kept stored in a garage all its life and rust had formed in two of the cylinders - the two that had valves open. The rust was to be expected, but the amount of rust that had formed was surprising. (engine was to be bored anyway so no harm done)

How much rust would form is dependent on the climate and change in temperature. As the temperature drops at night condensation will form.

Condensation will also occur in the valve covers, under intake manifold and crankcase. It will build up over time.

Less critical is that some of the valve springs will be left under compression for a long time. But unless it's a racing engine this is probably not a problem.

In reality, sitting all winter long undoubtedly a little rust will form. Probably not a major problem, the piston rings will scrape it off. Does this idea bother you?

Starting and running the engine periodically will drive the moisture back out. Make sure and let it run for a long time to get even the exhaust system hot enough to drive off all moisture.

But...

When you shut it down, the cooling engine will generate moisture again inside as it cools. So the cycle starts over again.

In a frozen area with extremely low humidity probably better to do nothing. But in an area with higher humidity and wider temperature swings I would start it periodically to drive off accumulated moisture.
__________________
2004 Silverado Duramax Six-Pac Camper
1999 Coachman Leprechaun
2010 ATC Race Car Trailer
jamesgr81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
chassis


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Generator not starting unless V-10 engine is running bobpie Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics 11 08-12-2010 05:59 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.