Replacing the transfer switch - Page 3

HD4Mark · 10-07-2013, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

Thanks... Did you get the 501 model?

Yes from here PARALLAX ATS501 50 AMP 120/240 VAC AUTOMATIC LINE / GENERATOR TRANSFER SWITCH/www.boatandrvaccessories.com best price I could find online. I called Parallax and they tell me it is the replacement for our old one.

The old one still works, all that happened was the strip down the middle that connects the wire inside to the coach wiring went bad. The new one does not use the same connections. After it burned up I just got some wire and nuts from the hardware store and bypassed it. The new one has soldered connections on the ATS side and hex key screw downs for the coach side.

I will post some photos when I switch it out. Really haven't been in a hurry since the old one still works.

jerichorick · 10-09-2013, 04:26 AM

http://www.parallaxpower.com/ATS501/...01%20REV_B.pdf

Good choice. Rated at 12KW genset.

HD4Mark · 10-09-2013, 07:26 AM

I installed our new ATS yesterday. Not a real easy job but doable. You have to spend a lot of time with your head stuck in the small electrical bay. The load (wires to the coach) wires are very stiff and do not want to cooperate. Some 9" linesman pliers convinced them. Plugged back in after everything was connected, no smoke and the EMS works with it. The worst problem with the install is that the two screws that secure the lid to the thing are tiny and placed right where the clamps for the cables go. Between the clamps, the cables and the fact that they are facing the inside of the cabinet they are nearly impossible to fasten. In our coach if you drop one (I dropped both) they fall in between the wall and the cord reel making them disappear. I am trying to figure out how to make some other way to secure it other than the screws provided. Duct tape comes to mind

Oh and the generator does switch no problem.

Here is a photo of what happened to the old one. You can see where the neutral burned out and my bypass wiring that got us going until I swapped it out.

osgoor · 10-09-2013, 09:17 AM

Well, I have made the appointment to have the switch installed. It's on a Saturday so I will be able to watch and test the install when done.

Thanks for all the feedback.

osgoor · 10-09-2013, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HD4Mark

Yes from here PARALLAX ATS501 50 AMP 120/240 VAC AUTOMATIC LINE / GENERATOR TRANSFER SWITCH/www.boatandrvaccessories.com best price I could find online. I called Parallax and they tell me it is the replacement for our old one.

The old one still works, all that happened was the strip down the middle that connects the wire inside to the coach wiring went bad. The new one does not use the same connections. After it burned up I just got some wire and nuts from the hardware store and bypassed it. The new one has soldered connections on the ATS side and hex key screw downs for the coach side.

I will post some photos when I switch it out. Really haven't been in a hurry since the old one still works.

Looking at Amazon for this purchase.. They have two versions of this device... or it appears so to me. What would be the difference between these two?

Amazon.com: ats 501

I assume the second one displayed is correct.

osgoor · 10-09-2013, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

Looking at Amazon for this purchase.. They have two versions of this device... or it appears so to me. What would be the difference between these two?

Amazon.com: ats 501

I assume the second one displayed is correct.

I may have answered my own question. The first one pictured is for 30 Amp and the second is for 50 Amp.

jerichorick · 10-10-2013, 05:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HD4Mark

The worst problem with the install is that the two screws that secure the lid to the thing are tiny and placed right where the clamps for the cables go. Between the clamps, the cables and the fact that they are facing the inside of the cabinet they are nearly impossible to fasten. In our coach if you drop one (I dropped both) they fall in between the wall and the cord reel making them disappear. I am trying to figure out how to make some other way to secure it other than the screws provided. Duct tape comes to mind

Oh and the generator does switch no problem.

Had the same problems when I did mine. If you have a small magnet, the pointer type, you might retrieve the screws. The real tub is also removable but not worth the trouble.

I think they are #6 or #8 self tapping. You can get replacements at HD or Lowe's. The threads are already established so self tapping are not needed.

I hope you removed the reel motor before you started the install. If you place a towel or rags in the traps before hand you can at least save the dropped screws. All you really need is one to secure the cover. What a bad design.

Try a dab of grease on the head of the screw to stick it to the screwdriver, long shank type, or a thin strip of masking tape. You may have to cut a slit in the tape to get the screw through it. Fold the tape up to the shank. When the screw is securely started you can pull the driver out and use needle nose pliers to retrieve the tape. Then tighten the screw.

But the important thing is that the xfer sw is working.

Good for you. Happy trails and many campsites!

Rick

HD4Mark · 10-10-2013, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

I may have answered my own question. The first one pictured is for 30 Amp and the second is for 50 Amp.

Based on the shape of both of them the second one is what I got to replace the old ATS5070. Free shipping is a good thing to.

The one bad review was kind of strange. The guy bought two of them one for shore power and generator and the other for an inverter. I'm not sure I understand how he had the inverter wired. Any good one would be pass through so you would not need a second ATS.

Dr4Film · 10-10-2013, 10:56 AM

Mark,

That actually sounds really crazy and it would be nice to know how he actually did it because I personally don't think it CAN be done using two separate transfer switches.

There are transfer switches that are built specifically for three inputs, shore, generator and inverter. They have a third relay contactor for the inverter.

Here is an example.

ESCO: ES350 Automatic Transfer Switch for 350A Power Sources

Dr4Film ----- Richard

John Hilley · 10-10-2013, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

Mark,

That actually sounds really crazy and it would be nice to know how he actually did it because I personally don't think it CAN be done using two separate transfer switches.

There are transfer switches that are built specifically for three inputs, shore, generator and inverter. They have a third relay contactor for the inverter.

Here is an example.

ESCO: ES350 Automatic Transfer Switch for 350A Power Sources

Dr4Film ----- Richard

It is cerainly possible to use two transfer switches. I do. In the normal position the transfer switch passes shore power or generator to distribution panel. If I turn the inverter on the transfer switch connects the inverter to the distribution panel.

Dr4Film · 10-10-2013, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Hilley

It is certainly possible to use two transfer switches. I do. In the normal position the transfer switch passes shore power or generator to distribution panel. If I turn the inverter on the transfer switch connects the inverter to the distribution panel.

Can you sketch me a drawing of how you did that with two transfer switches, please. Curious minds would like to know.

Thanks!

I have only one transfer switch with two relays, one for shore power and one for generator power.

If I have power from neither of those sources and my Xantrex Inverter has been turned on then the inverter is supplying 120 VAC to my coach.

The inverter power does NOT go through the same transfer switch that the shore power and generator power use.

There is a transfer switch inside the inverter which detects whether there is any shore or generator power. If so, it simply passes it through untouched. If not than the internal transfer switch will switch over to inverter power within 16ms so the transfer is seamless.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

HD4Mark · 10-10-2013, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

Mark,

That actually sounds really crazy and it would be nice to know how he actually did it because I personally don't think it CAN be done using two separate transfer switches.

There are transfer switches that are built specifically for three inputs, shore, generator and inverter. They have a third relay contactor for the inverter.

Here is an example.

ESCO: ES350 Automatic Transfer Switch for 350A Power Sources

Dr4Film ----- Richard

Richard,
I thought about this for a while and here is all I could figure. If you connected the first ATS normally then the output to the GEN connection of the second and the LINE to the inverter then when any power into the second was present the ATS would switch to the GEN feed. If nothing was present the ATS would draw from the inverter, the normal line in feed. But why is what I can't figure unless the cost of an inexpensive inverter plus a second ATS was less than just connecting a pass through inverter.

If what the guy said about his experience with Parralax is true then I am happy we are about out of warranty due to the fact it took me so long to get around to installing it. I could buy a new one for way less than they charged him.

jerichorick · 10-11-2013, 05:12 AM

ATSs have two inputs and one output. The output sees whatever input is active and defaults to the one that operates the transfer relays. In our case the genset.

I wired xfer sw circuits when I worked for the phone company. The one I built was low powered and was used as a trigger for the main power board transfer switch. So, yes. Two xfer switches can be used.

osgoor · 10-19-2013, 12:44 PM

Transfer switch has been replaced. The tech then tested the house battery charger under the stove and it is not working. I need to replace it so am looking for feedback on what to replace it with. Again, It's a 2005 Itasca Suncruiser 37B.

I am having a hard time finding info on what the original unit was...

Dr4Film · 10-19-2013, 02:10 PM

Stay away form WFCO and IOTA.

Progressive Dynamics, Inteli-Power and Power Max are all good brands, listed in order.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

jerichorick · 10-20-2013, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

Transfer switch has been replaced. The tech then tested the house battery charger under the stove and it is not working. I need to replace it so am looking for feedback on what to replace it with. Again, It's a 2005 Itasca Suncruiser 37B.

I am having a hard time finding info on what the original unit was...

Do you have the original? Besides, a call to Winnebago tech support will give you the answer.

I, personally, like Magnum products. They have a great reputation and have great customer service. I know their techs will help you select a product.
Contact Us - Magnum Energy Inc.

I think you must have had a near lightning hit or lost your neutral to be having so much trouble.

Rick

HD4Mark · 10-20-2013, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

Transfer switch has been replaced. The tech then tested the house battery charger under the stove and it is not working. I need to replace it so am looking for feedback on what to replace it with. Again, It's a 2005 Itasca Suncruiser 37B.

I am having a hard time finding info on what the original unit was...

Ours is a Dimensions 2000W MSW charger/inverter. When it quit we sent it to them to be repaired to the tune of $500. Actually a bargain compared to the cost of replacement. I did the work though. Still working after a year or so.

osgoor · 10-20-2013, 08:00 AM

I will need to go out to the RV to find the model # of the original unit. Thanks for the feedback on what to go with.

Old Snipe · 10-20-2013, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HD4Mark

Ours is a Dimensions 2000W MSW charger/inverter. When it quit we sent it to them to be repaired to the tune of $500. Actually a bargain compared to the cost of replacement. I did the work though. Still working after a year or so.

My Dimensions inverter charger is dying and the inverter part no longer works. How long of a turn around did they have to rebuild yours. I need to know because we are fulltimers and can't be without the I/C too long.

Thanks!

jerichorick · 10-21-2013, 05:16 AM

In my '05 Vectra the inverter died twice. The second time I replaced it with a Xantrex inverter full sine wave inverter. That brand was a poor choice.

The inverter is the heartbeat of your batteries and the batteries are the heart of your 12V system. Putting your money here is a good thing to do wisely. The inverters that come with most of the motorhomes are modified sine wave. The AC produced from them is not 'clean'. The working power for the voltage we read is not as effective in running AC stuff. Motors especially don't like MSW.

There are many FSW inverters on the market. Check the RECENT support quality of the brand if you choose to replace what you have.

Check with your local RV shops. Some have local inverter repair shops they use if you choose to repair yours.

Rick