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Old 02-20-2016, 05:15 AM   #1
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Replace TruAir with mini split AC?

Started having some issues with the basement heat/ac and before dumping $$$ into a dinosaur, I was wondering if anyone has changed it out with one of these mini split units.
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:05 AM   #2
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Interested if any say they have ...... However I have heard many just install roof air units.
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:45 AM   #3
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Quote:
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Started having some issues with the basement heat/ac and before dumping $$$ into a dinosaur, I was wondering if anyone has changed it out with one of these mini split units.
What year coach do you have? What kind of issues? How handy are you?

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Old 02-20-2016, 08:01 AM   #4
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06 Chieftain. The place I stay is 30 amp. The ac just doesn't make it in central FL in the summer. The heat pump quit. The fan on ac just quit As to handy- been building renovating homes for 40 years.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:11 AM   #5
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These units can be repaired by an average residential AC repair tech. The problem is most of these guys don't want to pull the unit out of the coach. That's why I asked how handy are you? A roof air conditioner can be added but additional wiring must be run to the unit for power. Not real tough, but it can be done. I will try to find the info on another member who rebuilt his basement air unit.

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Old 02-20-2016, 08:43 AM   #6
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Duner, a member of this forum has taken his basement air unit apart and rebuilt it with available parts. You might try sending him a private message and see if he can help.

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Old 02-20-2016, 08:54 AM   #7
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Old thread

Current link to Bill's writeup
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:56 AM   #8
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Thanks, but I'm really more interested in the mini splits. They seem to be a lot more energy efficient and would be easier to put in then dropping the true air, rebuilding it and wrestling it back in. I'd still have a unit that won't be able to keep up when it gets above 85. Mini split for my needs will use less than 15 amps and cost about the same as 1 roof ac.
Seems like I could easily drop the trueair, replace with the base unit and put the control unit in the space above the washer/dryer. Not sure if that will have enough oomph to push air to the living area or if I would need to run a 2nd control unit.
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Old 02-20-2016, 10:56 AM   #9
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FWIW, I think that the mini-split AC is a great idea. From my shopping, finding a unit with enough cooling capacity that runs on 120V is a challenge. I became interested after reading a linked story a while back about an Australian travel trailer with the compressor unit mounted on the rear bumper. The Mitsubishi mini-split AC units that we used in the Iraqi desert were amazingly durable. I would not hesitate to try one in an RV.



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Old 02-20-2016, 11:21 AM   #10
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To replace the basement AC with a mini split, you'll still have to pull the basement unit out. Job's half done at that point. Putting the basement air back in would be easier than putting something that doesn't fit.

Not that I'm not curious about using a mini-split, just think it'd be a lot work, even if you can find something that could be adapted to work.

Have any links to systems you're thinking about?
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Old 02-21-2016, 04:02 AM   #11
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The LG's are quite popular with the Tiny House movement. Some have been used with off grid houses running solar. Claims for this unit are around 10 amps at 110v and the heat pump will heat to 70* with ambient air of 14*. This is the unit I've been thinking of.
https://www.acwholesalers.com/LG-Air...Qhkhgod91cE4w#
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:47 AM   #12
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One of the most attractive features of the split systems is the lack of efficiency-robbing ductwork. I don't have the knowledge to do it myself, but somebody with HVAC experience could figure out how much less BTU rating you can get away with by eliminating the losses associated with the ductwork.



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Old 02-21-2016, 07:45 AM   #13
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One of the most attractive features of the split systems is the lack of efficiency-robbing ductwork. I don't have the knowledge to do it myself, but somebody with HVAC experience could figure out how much less BTU rating you can get away with by eliminating the losses associated with the ductwork.

True. However most RV's that have roof A/C come with two 13,500 BTU units so you could either go with a 2 ton unit (which might be under powered) or a 3 ton unit.
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Old 02-21-2016, 10:52 AM   #14
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True. However most RV's that have roof A/C come with two 13,500 BTU units so you could either go with a 2 ton unit (which might be under powered) or a 3 ton unit.

120V is the killer limitation.



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Old 02-21-2016, 11:29 AM   #15
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You gotta do what you gotta do, but in the long run I think you would be much better off rebuilding the basement unit and maybe adding a supplement roof air unit. Long term, if you ever decide to sell the coach you will draw more buyers.

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Old 02-21-2016, 12:20 PM   #16
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I think if you do it professionally and it performs well, it could be a resale plus in your market. Where would you mount the evaporator/ Would you use two evaporators?
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:02 PM   #17
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One very big issue is that all the ones sold at Home Depot are 220 volt except for the 12K btu unit. I don't think you'll get enough cooling with just 12k btu.

With only 30 amp service in Florida all summer, I think you're going to have trouble with any solution.
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:49 PM   #18
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After looking at this from all angles, I regretfully, in my opinion, state it won't work.


I am a big fan of split units and if was still building houses would use them.


The removal of a roof exhaust fan and shimming a 13.5 amp unit into the vacant opening seems best. You have a "engine heater" switch right there to power the a/c unit. (if the engine heater is on a gfci breaker, use a regular breaker).


Hi Bill (Duner) hope all is well with you, Kerry
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:59 PM   #19
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Several years ago, I was having a problem with my basement unit and considered going the split unit route. I went down the same path as the OP.

I had very high hopes for the split unit configuration but soon ran in to all the problems listed here. The one that caused me to abandon the idea was... where to mount the evap unit inside. There just really wasn't a good place without removing cabinets... and my wife wasn't having that!

I suppose if I could have made it look nice she would have gone along, but I just couldn't figure out a way without significant work and modification. I found a couple of other coaches where people had made the switch to a split unit. It just didn't look right. I suppose with enough effort it could be done, but in my case, it was certainly a lot more work than just repairing my existing unit.

So I pulled my old unit out, replaced the blower motor, and it's been working fine ever since.

Hopefully I'll never have to replace my basement unit, but if I do, a rebuild will be my first choice. Roof top units would be next. ... at least until someone makes a more RV friendly Split unit.
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Old 02-27-2016, 06:59 PM   #20
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I assume that if roof ac units are to be installed. The features to deal with are, support structure and wiring. The units would not have a duct work, but just discharge (outlet) straight down next to return (inlet). Am I missing anything ?
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