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Old 05-20-2017, 10:55 AM   #1
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Power Transfer Switch

I have a 1999 Grand Tour 37B. Has anyone replaced the power transfer switch with something other than the winnebago switch? Switches run from $53-$400. Do I need to buy the $400 that is the Winnebago one.

Thanks,

Cork
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:45 AM   #2
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If you use the search box in the upper right part of the page, the one with the Google logo, to search the forum, you'll find many opinions. I wouldn't go for the cheapest, after all, your $400 one isn't functioning anymore.
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:18 PM   #3
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Has anyone replaced the Todd eng switch with the Esco 50m
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Old 05-21-2017, 08:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wetsnail View Post
I have a 1999 Grand Tour 37B. Has anyone replaced the power transfer switch with something other than the winnebago switch? Switches run from $53-$400. Do I need to buy the $400 that is the Winnebago one.

Thanks,

Cork
Good point, Cork. This one works great for me: https://www.amazon.com/Parallax-Powe.../dp/B002SSEXSC

Used it as a replacement in two coaches. Keep the terminals tight and stay away from lighting strikes and you should be happy.
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Old 05-28-2017, 02:20 AM   #5
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Spend the money and get one with built in surge protection and miss wiring detection and low/high voltage protection. These features are worth the extra protection they provide. That may be part of the reason yours stopped working.
When you install it make sure to properly tighten the lugs down. While you are at it check your shore power cord for soft spots in the outer sheath and check the blades on the plug. If any of the blades show signs of black marks on them or the plug itself then replace it. It has been compromised by drawing too much current and is a disaster waiting to happen. Also make sure that eh anchors or tie downs for the shore power cable are good and snug and don't allow the cable to move.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:27 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by SuperGewl View Post
Spend the money and get one with built in surge protection and miss wiring detection and low/high voltage protection. These features are worth the extra protection they provide. That may be part of the reason yours stopped working.
When you install it make sure to properly tighten the lugs down. While you are at it check your shore power cord for soft spots in the outer sheath and check the blades on the plug. If any of the blades show signs of black marks on them or the plug itself then replace it. It has been compromised by drawing too much current and is a disaster waiting to happen. Also make sure that eh anchors or tie downs for the shore power cable are good and snug and don't allow the cable to move.
CAUTION Surge protection is provided by metal oxide varistors (MOVs) that degrade and eventually fail each time they clamp down on a surge. Whether from multiple electric motor start up cycles or a direct hit of lightning near by, the surge protector will eventually fail. They then need to be replaced.

I did a quick Google search for transfer switches with surge protection. The only ones that offer combined functions are products from TRC Surge Guard and Progressive Dynamics. Both have a one year, limited warranty. If it lasts a year, you're on your own, no parts or repair, only replacement of the whole unit if the surge protection part fails.

I'd suggest installing a good ATS and a Progressive Industries EMS. The PI EMS has a lifetime repair or replacement warranty. PI is a great company to work with, Call with a concern and a tech will walk you though a few simple tests to determine the problem. They will then offer to send you the repair parts or you can send the unit back to them for repair, all at no cost.
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:59 AM   #7
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Yes, the important thing is to install some type of surge protection. These rig cost too much to take a chance on the RV park wiring their poles correctly.
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:41 AM   #8
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I believe we're talking about the 30 amp ATS. If that's the case, the OP can also check for a simple DPDT 120 volt, 30 amp relay. Used, at a thrift store, or new from Amazon.

The ATS is not all that mysterious. It's only a DPDT relay that is wired with the common contacts set to either supply power from the generator (which is in turn wired to the relay's coil), or from shore power. The Hot & Neu from shore power are wired to the NC contacts, the generators to the NO, and the RV connected to the Common contacts.

Amazon has one: DPDT Relay
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Old 05-29-2017, 10:23 AM   #9
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Yes, the important thing is to install some type of surge protection. These rig cost too much to take a chance on the RV park wiring their poles correctly.
A EMS does more than protect from mis-wired pedestals. It also won't connect when voltage goes outside set parameters. Low voltage in a campground is common with the multi-A/C RVs that are common today. A bad connection in a worn outlet is also something an EMS will detect and not connect.

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Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek View Post
I believe we're talking about the 30 amp ATS. If that's the case, the OP can also check for a simple DPDT 120 volt, 30 amp relay. Used, at a thrift store, or new from Amazon.

The ATS is not all that mysterious. It's only a DPDT relay that is wired with the common contacts set to either supply power from the generator (which is in turn wired to the relay's coil), or from shore power. The Hot & Neu from shore power are wired to the NC contacts, the generators to the NO, and the RV connected to the Common contacts.

Amazon has one: DPDT Relay
An ATS also usually has a time delay built in to prevent connection to a generator until it is up to speed. The ATS will last much longer if all heavy amp draws are shut down before connecting. To plug in to a pedestal with the RV A/C on can cause arcing at the switch contacts and cause premature failure.
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:35 PM   #10
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An ATS also usually has a time delay built in to prevent connection to a generator until it is up to speed. The ATS will last much longer if all heavy amp draws are shut down before connecting. To plug in to a pedestal with the RV A/C on can cause arcing at the switch contacts and cause premature failure.
I would say that some RV AT's have them. My '94 didn't. It was just a simple DPDT relay. Since the OP has a '99, I thought it was possible that his might be the same. I'm pretty sure that most high end RVs, even older ones, would likely have a time delay built into the ATS.
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:42 PM   #11
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I would say that some RV AT's have them. My '94 didn't. It was just a simple DPDT relay. Since the OP has a '99, I thought it was possible that his might be the same.
I did say 'usually' and an Auto Transfer Switch is a bit more than just a DPDT relay. First, if it's a 50 amp RV, it needs to have 3 poles, not just two. In addition to giving the generator time to get to speed and stabilize, the delay also prevents short cycling the A/C compressor. When an A/C shuts down, it has high pressure built up in the system and needs a time period to allow the pressure to equalize through the small aperture of the expansion valve. The ATS delay connect gives the A/C time to equalize and allow it a safe restart. My '98 has a 50 amp ATS with a delay.
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Old 05-29-2017, 10:15 PM   #12
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I did say 'usually' and an Auto Transfer Switch is a bit more than just a DPDT relay. First, if it's a 50 amp RV, it needs to have 3 poles, not just two. In addition to giving the generator time to get to speed and stabilize, the delay also prevents short cycling the A/C compressor. When an A/C shuts down, it has high pressure built up in the system and needs a time period to allow the pressure to equalize through the small aperture of the expansion valve. The ATS delay connect gives the A/C time to equalize and allow it a safe restart. My '98 has a 50 amp ATS with a delay.
OP never said if his was a 30 amp or a 50 amp. Again, my '94 Bounder, 30 amp, had an ATS. NO time delay because the genset took care of getting up to speed before it applied 120 Volt to the ATS relay. I am aware of the 'smart' ATS switches but we don't know enough about the OPs rig to infer he has one...so for any lurkers, I was covering bases.

As far as the info you offered, mostly about a 50 amp rig, in 10's of thousands of older RVs, like my '94, I had to shut off any A/C or high current device before starting the genset when I was connected to shore power. That was normal...SOP as we use to call it.

There were plenty of forum postings about doing just that. Shut off the A/C before starting the genset for it's monthly exercise. Sure, expensive 50 amp rigs had all that fancy electronics and even some high end 30 amp rigs, but again, we don't know exactly what the OP owns.
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