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Old 07-17-2019, 10:44 AM   #1
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Not charging when plugged in

I have had my RV plugged in house 30 AMP power and checked it and all battery are dead, I have no power to RV. There is power to house plug. I noticed on the main circuit breaker panel that the AC (20Amp)/Main (30Amp) breaker on the AC side does not go all the way to off.
Where to start?
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Old 07-17-2019, 05:41 PM   #2
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I was a Troubleman for the local utility company and I would get part service or all power off calls. I’m sure you’re knowledgeable about the tripped breaker. But I can’t tell you how many times I had to give a “class” on resetting breakers. Homeowners didn’t realize you had to push the breaker to ON, until it clicked, then push it to OFF, then back to ON to get it to reset. If it doesn’t “click”, it’s more than likely a bad Ckt breaker. I hope you’re able to get it back to normal with little trouble. Hopefully it’s not a fault somewhere in the circuit.
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:08 PM   #3
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Going to sound contrary but an old Army guy can handle that, right?
My best advice to folks who get an RV is to also get a meter to test things like this. With a meter or some other form of tester, I would start with the breaker to see that it gets Ac to that point and then move forward until I found what was not working. Breaker being bad or not flipped right can kill half a day or be a two minute project to find with some form of testing.
Step two if it gets into more looking is to refer you to the online diagrams for your own particular unit.
Lots of great info here:
https://winnebagoind.com/product-res...ct-information
Down in the lower right side is a link to the electrical diagrams and they are great for chasing from point a to z if it gets that far.
Perhaps you do not need to go that route right now but I like to read over and print off lots of that info to keep in a book so that I don't have to do it under stress on the road someday.
Really helps to ward off those gremlins if I prep ahead of time. Do the practice at home BEFORE deployed!
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Old 07-21-2019, 01:29 PM   #4
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Old 07-21-2019, 02:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Hi,
I realize that you're fairly new at using forums, but you are not able to close threads when you are done, or if your question is answered.

So, this thread is not closed.

I do hope you've gotten your problem solved and if so, we sure wish you'd follow up and explain how you solved your problem. That way you'll be helping others that come along later with a similar issue.

Thanks so much.
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Old 07-24-2019, 04:46 PM   #6
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Did you check the gfi for the inverter ?
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Old 07-24-2019, 07:39 PM   #7
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And the solution was???


Hopefully it was the simple one of flipping the breaker to on then back to off and then on again to reset it.
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Old 07-24-2019, 08:40 PM   #8
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I had the same problem. Not enough water in batteries to cover plates. both batteries went bad.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:44 PM   #9
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Forums are strange things sometimes because you interact with folks on the net and not face to face. The prerequisite for forum use is a turtle hard shell to let the stuff slide off and keep on trudging.


I agree, first thing is get a meter and chase it after testing obvious things like breakers. I carry two meters, small cheapo and my Fluke 375. It is, after all, a compact house and the operator of an RV really must be a magician, electrician, plumber, high tech wizard and everything else and a few mechanic skills thrown in help a lot. In between all that stuff it takes to keep one going you must maintain a successful relationship with your special other, care for the dog and help with all the other chores while plotting your adventure.
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Old 07-26-2019, 08:48 AM   #10
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Different problem Over charging

First I was not offended by any of the replies on my first post. It was lower water in batteries.
What the really problem is, I have 13 volts going to house batteries all the time when plugged in. After filling battery's, came later and one of the battery's was smoking and half empty of water.
What turns the shore power off to house batteries when charged?
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Old 07-26-2019, 12:44 PM   #11
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You have a shorted cell in the smoking battery. Replace all the batteries in that system. 13 volts will not hurt anything if it is at low amps. Normal maintenance or float voltage is low amps at 13.2vdc.


I'm not familiar with the charging system in your '02 Adventurer. If it is an old style charger with no "smarts" it can ruin your batteries if allowed to charge continuously when on shore power. Normally the house batteries are shut off with the salesman switch. I might add a shorted battery can damage the charging system over time. A shorted battery will eventually burn if charge is applied.


First things first. Batteries are toast. Replace them. Then check out your charging system. Not looking that up because I have a different rig with a converter/charger and I don't know what is in your rig. Many folks find it reasonable to upgrade if they have a very old single stage charging system choosing instead one of the newer chargers with three stage or more smart charging. The newer chargers will not damage your batteries if left on continuously although anything about batteries and charging is always debated to infinity on forums. Some people advocate you never leave batteries on float, others recommend leaving them on float. I advocate a smart charging system which you seldom worry about. Float to maintain after they are fully charged in Bulk, then Absorption and periodic equalize.
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Old 07-26-2019, 05:17 PM   #12
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X2 12 volt flooded cell lead-acid batteries last longest if taken to 14.2 - 14.4 volts to be fully charged, then can be safely floated at 13.2 - 13.4 volts. A three or four state smart charger set to flooded lead-acid battery mode does this.

Batteries will start to lose water from the cell when charged annd the voltage is above 13.4. Slowly when slightly above 13.4. Rapidly when above 14.4

Occasionally flooded lead acid batteries can have all their cells "equalized" and brought to equally fully charged by applying 14.9 to 15.0 volts for three hours OR LESS (I use 2 hours personally), to fully charged batteries. A current of about 5 amps per battery is about right. I use a power supply set to 15 volts and and set to 10 amps current limit, because I have 4 six volt golf cart deep cycle batteries ( AKA 12 V x 2 ). When doing this - first ensure that all cells are filled to the upper limit of their fluid level, and that the batteries are equalized outdoors in a well ventilated area. They will outgas hydrogen gas and oxygen gas.

One can measure the specific gravity (SG) of each cell to see if equalization is needed, if one or more cells is lower than equalize. I just equalize about twice a year rather than mess with taking the SG measurements.

After equalizing make sure to check water level in all cells and fill if/as needed.

DON'T EQUALIZE AGM BATTERIES.
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Old 07-26-2019, 08:04 PM   #13
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Not Charging When plugged in

Well...it comes to mind...why the MPs were always close to the bars & places of enjoyment.

For what it's worth...For Me

I would like to give a SHOUTOUT to each of you Veterans for your service
and allowing me and others on this Forum the Freedom to express our opinions and offerings of advice to all

"THANK YOU FOR SERVING"
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Old 07-30-2019, 12:11 PM   #14
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shorted cell

Had a shorted cell, replaced batteries. All is good. Thanks
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Old 07-30-2019, 12:13 PM   #15
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That would have been my guess. Glad it's sorted.
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Old 07-30-2019, 03:08 PM   #16
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I've found one of the less complex (and cheaper) ways to deal with not cooking the batteries is to pull the fuses on the coach charging as it is right next to the battery compartment on mine, then use a cheap, simple, stand alone trickle charger to keep the batteries topped off as it does not overcharge them to boil them dry during storage.
This is one that works for me:
https://www.harborfreight.com/automa...ger-42292.html
I still check everything like security and the batteries as well as start it to run about every month or so during storage. Nothing kills an RV as quit as NOT being used....
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Old 08-11-2019, 09:55 AM   #17
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Battery charge with convertor (ac source)

Replacing batteries is a temporary fix! "newer chargers with "smart charging". The newer chargers will not damage your batteries if left on continuously."

1988 Winnebago old technology convertor, disconnect 110 vac OR constantly overcharge house batteries (boil water from cells). Then you had dead batteries whenever you wanted to go due to micro ampere loads not disabled by 12 VDC disconnect. Found myself replacing house batteries at least every two years from either dead not re-charging, or overcharged shorted cell damage in storage. Yes, all I needed to due is check every month adding water preventing the problem, HOWEVER!

Purchased 2012 with same technology, 1 house and the start battery were bad. Replaced 3 batteries, REPLACED convertor with new "smart charge" feature including de-sulfurization cycle (careful advertisement: purchased great deal only to discover all manufacturer's using phasing description are not including constant charge electronic battery maintenance program). After five years constantly connected to shore power in storage, batteries with "smart charge" convertor are in excellent condition and motorhome is always ready to go.

I use my motorhome as guest house for visitors, this set-up allows me to keep the refrigerator active for surprise guest and emergencies.

I did add a house battery power management digital display indicating voltage, available watt hours, just so I can readily identify any problem. HINT: if you are equipped with remote monitor "invertor" display, you can verify available voltage on house batteries.
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