No PowerLine

dengraham · 12-01-2006, 08:30 PM

For some reason my Powerline has gone blank. Any ideas?

dengraham · 12-01-2006, 08:30 PM

For some reason my Powerline has gone blank. Any ideas?

Cruzer · 12-02-2006, 03:37 AM

It needs 12 volt DC power to operate. Check for a blown 12 VDC fuse someplace. Otherwise if you remove the breaker panel cover you'll see the DC side of the box. There is a 3 prong AMP connector with 3 wires - red = 12 VDC hot, black = ground, and the third wire runs to the genset's B+ signal. If you have 12 volts present at the hot wire and it still doesn't light up, then the module is bad.

John Mc · 12-02-2006, 05:37 AM

When ours did that, the telephone jack type connector on the cable in the electrial compartment had come disconnected. This is the cable that leads from the inverter up to the Powerline panel.

dengraham · 12-02-2006, 06:51 PM

I cannot figure it out. If I hook it up to a 50 amp all the lights are on. If I hook it up to a 30 amp none of the lights are on. If I run the generator none of the lights work. Although the lights don't work the 110 seems fine. I perplexed.

Gene Rondenet · 12-02-2006, 07:57 PM

Mine does exactly the same thing. Please post your solution.

itsrip · 12-03-2006, 05:09 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Mine does exactly the same thing </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Mine does exactly the same thing. Please post your solution. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Mine does exactly the same thing. Please post your solution.also thought that was how it worked

DriVer · 12-03-2006, 05:36 AM

Guys,

What I found is that I lost the functionality of the "One Place" amperage display when I opened the breaker for my water heater in the circuit panel.

Once latched closed the functionality returned. I opened the breaker prior to leaving the unit at a service center so an accidental burn-out would not occur if the water were drained out of the heater..

Perhaps this might lead the way to a solution.

Cruzer · 12-04-2006, 11:00 AM

My 2003 Suncruiser had a similar side effect. Sometimes the system would not display and whenever I flipped the electric hot water heater switch back and forth it would. It didn't matter if the heater was on or off but for some odd reason the EMS would light up again. My dealer replaced the control board under warranty and it worked fine.

The EMS has a transformer coil that loops over the breaker panel's neutral wire for sampling the amp draw. The control board looks at both sides of the breaker panel inputs. If it sees 240 volts then it knows you have 50 amp shore power so it shuts down the ammeter and does not shed any loads. If it sees zero volts across the two hoit legs then it knows that you are not on 50 amps so it displays the ammeter and begins energy management. However, it also looks for 12 volt power from the generator set's B+ hourmeter lead and if it sees that it knows you are on generator, in which case the ammeter still works but it won't do any load shedding. It sounds to me like the control module just doesn't know what to do and needs replacing. Your AC power will feed through the system if the logic board is messed up as long as you are still supplying 12 volts to power the board to hold the AC power relays closed.

dengraham · 12-04-2006, 11:38 AM

Cruzer,
Wow, you sure helped. You certainly have been there before. I will have to pull the panel and remove the PowerLine and have them send me a new one. Are there lots of wires back there?
Thanks for your message. I feel better knowing what it is supposed to do.

Pete B · 12-04-2006, 12:15 PM

My powerline display went out. I took the board out and a connector had come loose off of the board. I soldered the connector back on and the display was fine. There were a lot of wires as well as plumbing lines in the narrow space behind the panel. Winnebago did not allow enough length for the wires and it put too much strain on the connector. Just be careful when you remove the panel. The power wires remove from the panel by way of a snap on connector which is soldered onto the board.

Cruzer · 12-04-2006, 02:32 PM

The AC breaker panel is divided into two sections - the AC section and the low voltage DC section. The EMS controller slides into the panel from the front. You only have to remove the cover to the breaker panel, not the whole panel. All of the wiring connections plug in with AMP connectors so it's pretty easy. I'd unplug from shore power while doing this though. I know it's the Christmas season but you don't want to light up like your Christmas tree.

Roadking · 12-09-2006, 08:16 AM

Maybe a dumb question, but when your EMS panel is not working do you have power at your 110V AC outlets located in the coach?

I may have had a similar problem, but at the same time I had no power at the outlets. My coach has a 30 amp subpanel that has the load shedding circuits and is fed by a 30amp breaker on the main panel. The shore power line then goes to the Hard invertor where it would be switched to the invertor output if the invertor were on and there was no shore power or generator power. The output then goes thru a 30amp breaker located on the invertor box.

The breaker was tripped and I had no EMS indications and no power at any 110v outlets. Resetting the breaker solved the problem.

I also had two factory wiring problems that only showed up when I used the 50-to-30-to-20amp adapters. So when plugging into a 20amp GFI circuit the GFI would trip. It's a long story, but both problems were related to the ground circuits on the load shedding circuits within the 30 amp subpanel. When wiring the subpanel grounds as indicated in teh notes included in the factory wiring diagrams solved the problem. There is a FSB on these problems.