I am sumped on this one. There is no 12V house power. I can get 12V if I turn on the ignition switch, but that is the only way. If I turn the aux switch off they will go off even with the ignition on so that should be working. The batteries are charged to 12.8 volts so there should be something there. All the breakers inside the cabinet are not tripped. It would be a pain to have to turn on the ignigion to get house lights but that is the way it is right now. Any ideas on what happened to my 12V house power. It has been working but is not now. We have a 1999 Itasca Suncruiser 34V on a freightliner chassis. Thanks for any ideas.
I am sumped on this one. There is no 12V house power. I can get 12V if I turn on the ignition switch, but that is the only way. If I turn the aux switch off they will go off even with the ignition on so that should be working. The batteries are charged to 12.8 volts so there should be something there. All the breakers inside the cabinet are not tripped. It would be a pain to have to turn on the ignigion to get house lights but that is the way it is right now. Any ideas on what happened to my 12V house power. It has been working but is not now. We have a 1999 Itasca Suncruiser 34V on a freightliner chassis. Thanks for any ideas.
Sounds like a bad connection somewhere, possibly at the battery connectoion to the solenoid that hooks to your shutoff switch. On shore power you are running off of the convertor & when you throw the ignition switch on you are connecting the engine battery.
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Fred B.
Hinckley, Ohio, 00' winnebago Adventurer 35U,
07' Saturn Vue, SMI Stay-n-Play, Blue Ox Aladdin
ottersea, look in your battery compartment for the "tin can" solenoid. Most of them have little blade fuses on the outside; check your fuses with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. You get 12vdc when you're plugged into shore power, because your 110vac to 12vdc converter is working. You're not get power back out of the batteries when you're disconnected from shore power. Ensure the coach power switch, usually by your steps, is "on". When you click on the coach power switch, often times you can hold your hand on the tin can solenoid and feel it clicking inside. If the solenoid's fuses are good and solenoid still does not click inside when you turn the coach power on, you've got a bad solenoid.
Have you looked at the switch on the dash that turns your batteries off? I know that if the battery disconnect is in the off position you will have the results you describe.
I don't know if this is anything but this is what happened this morning. I went out and the 12V house was still gone. While rooting through the battery compartment looking for the solinoid I noticed that that positive cable was touching the battery box. I seemed to be touching on the insulation but when I moved it the 12V came on instantly. Could this have entirely killed the 12V system? Also the positive run to the front of the cab so I assume the solinoid is in the front somewhere. We have a freightliner chassis DP so a lot of the stuff is up there.
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