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Old 11-30-2016, 11:21 AM   #1
TAN
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Motor Battery

Went out to start my motor in my motorhome and found the battery to low to start it. Also the switch that connects the coach battery's to the starter battery does not work, The coach battery's are fully charged. Can some one tell me where I can find the switch (sorry I don't know what it is called) that connects them all together? It hasn't worked for some time now. Thank You
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:42 AM   #2
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Not sure about yours but my switch (relay) is down by the batteries under the entrance steps. You can jump from the house batteries to chassis battery with a jumper cable (positive to positive) right there.
Hope that helps.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:43 AM   #3
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It is most likely that the switch itself is okay ... what is most likely to be defective is the solenoid ...

In the mean time you can use jumper cables to connect the two battery banks together to get the rig started. Actually, you only need one jumper cable ... the batteries are already connected by the common ground.
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Old 11-30-2016, 12:54 PM   #4
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Just had similar situation.
Try This:
1. Push the "BOOST" switch on the dash and listen for a metallic click.
If you hear a click, the switch is working OK.

2. Next, locate the "Continuous Operation Solenoid". My Winnebago has located this solenoid: My second entrance step in the coach is removable, allowing access to the Coach AND Engine batteries. On the back wall is a 12v fuse panel. Remove the two Phillips screws from each side and pull out the panel, setting is aside as best able, due to wires.
Immediately in front of you will be a metal solenoid. Probably have #6 wire (red) going into and out of the big terminals.
Small terminal(s) is 12v and ground, if separate ground is required. Most are base grounded so a separate wire is not needed.

3. Once the solenoid is found, start the engine.

4. Check for 12v on the small terminal.

5. Check for ~14.5v on big terminal going in.

6. Check for ~14.5 on big terminal going out.

IF 12v detected on small terminal, then wiring is ok.

If ~14.5v IS detected going IN, but NOT detected on the big terminal coming out, but rather just resting battery voltage (eg. 12.4v), then the solenoid is not functioning. (probably closing BUT contacts are fouled so full contact cannot be made = open circuit)

When functioning properly, the solenoid closes, completing the circuit which allows the alternator to charge the coach batteries as well as the engine battery.

I have several pics of this solenoid on the wall as well as a recent take-apart and repair pics. Send a request and I'll get them to you.
Let us know how you make out.
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Old 11-30-2016, 04:24 PM   #5
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winnie32v, he can't start the engine to check any voltages. Not sure how your "BOOST" solenoid is wired but if the chassis battery is really dead it may not have enough juice to activate the solenoid. A jumper cable between the coach and chassis battery positive should work.

The ECM will drain the chassis battery if the MH sits long enough without being run. The solar panel on the roof keeps our coach batteries charged so I use a small jumper between the coach and chassis battery while in storage. That seems to keep the chassis battery charged up, over 13 volts.
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Old 11-30-2016, 04:30 PM   #6
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With a '05, you might just need to whack a few solenoids with a rubber mallet. And it's fun.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70ChevelleSS View Post
winnie32v, he can't start the engine to check any voltages. Not sure how your "BOOST" solenoid is wired but if the chassis battery is really dead it may not have enough juice to activate the solenoid. A jumper cable between the coach and chassis battery positive should work.

The ECM will drain the chassis battery if the MH sits long enough without being run. The solar panel on the roof keeps our coach batteries charged so I use a small jumper between the coach and chassis battery while in storage. That seems to keep the chassis battery charged up, over 13 volts.
I have to agree, ECM, radios, propane, smoke and carbon monoxide sensors all use power even in "sleep" mode. I also use a small jumper between house and chassis batteries positive terminals. Our rig is inside, so the solar can't help so I keep it plugged in all the time it's home. Our old '93 Airstream was the same and the batteries were still good after 11 years. We could dry camp for up to a week without using the genset as long as we didn't use the furnace too much (1/2 to 1 hour in the mornings). Didn't have any solar panels on it either. We could watch movie in the evenings using an inverter. That said, I had put 4 group 31 12 volt batteries in it. I worked for a Peterbilt truck shop, and we sold the combination start/deep cycle group 31's that work fantastic. They are made for the long haul truckers that use inverters for running microwaves, TV's electric blankets, etc. etc. in their sleepers. Only drawback is they are 60 pounds each!
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:57 PM   #8
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Those solenoid/relays are a high failure item. Many of the View/Navion folks carry a spare. I bought a new Cole-Hersee 24213 for a spare, and then got curious if the original was working. Started engine (it closes and allows the alternator to charge the house batteries also) and found the chassis battery was about 14 v and the house batteries were about 12.7v. Apparently it was closing, but the contacts were burned up, so I replaced it with my spare.

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Old 12-05-2016, 04:37 PM   #9
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Thanks all for all the help. Sorry if this is a stupid question but where do I find the solenoid?
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Old 12-05-2016, 11:17 PM   #10
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Try this--- www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SOLENOID-GOLF-CARTS 150 amps
$15.00!
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unplanned View Post

Link doesn't work.
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:44 AM   #12
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Try this link instead: Solenoid...
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