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Old 10-13-2015, 11:20 AM   #21
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Yes my 1995 and now my 2001 both charge the house batteries from the alternator after the engine battery has been charged. They are isolated that way since they are different size and type batteries. The converter/charger only charges the house batteries unless you add a additional device to automatically add a trickle or float charge to the engine batteries when plugged in.
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Old 10-13-2015, 01:28 PM   #22
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What you appear to be missing at the solenoid is the "trigger" current to close the solenoid. Your DRL circuit would be one source for that as it is active when the engine is running and might very well be the trigger to close the solenoid. You discription of the problem of not shutting off may be related to the solenoid not getting the closure signal. If you have the Winn wiring diagrams, they might provide clue if they are related. Good luck,
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:25 PM   #23
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Nice info
I have a similar issue on my coach.
Let the games begin
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Old 10-14-2015, 12:09 PM   #24
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I did verify that all of the batteries are connected to the solenoid correctly and that the wires to the solenoid are the correct wires in the correct location. I also noticed on the wiring diagram that the DRL circuit is connected to the solenoid. I am beginning to think that there is a connection here with my problem. When we bought the RV, the fuse was out that controlled the DRL's so I put it in and noticed the Daytime Running Lights came on and would not shut off. So I pulled the fuse out. I never realized that our coach batteries were not charging while driving until recently. They do charge when on shore or generator power.

I need more information on the momentary switch and when the wires to it are hot and when they are not.

Martin
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:48 AM   #25
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I did verify that all of the batteries are connected to the solenoid correctly and that the wires to the solenoid are the correct wires in the correct location. I also noticed on the wiring diagram that the DRL circuit is connected to the solenoid. I am beginning to think that there is a connection here with my problem. When we bought the RV, the fuse was out that controlled the DRL's so I put it in and noticed the Daytime Running Lights came on and would not shut off. So I pulled the fuse out. I never realized that our coach batteries were not charging while driving until recently. They do charge when on shore or generator power.

I need more information on the momentary switch and when the wires to it are hot and when they are not.

Martin
Just to be clear.....with engine running, and you hold down the momentary Aux Start switch on the dash, the solenoid activates AND you measure 14+ at the coach batteries?

I had a charging problem and it was the ground cable from coach batteries to the chassis ground......it was not real tight. Under low currents the voltages all looked good, but under heavy charging the voltage drop on ground cable side was 12v.

Grounding problems are very elusive and can fool you when taking measurements. Take note where you are putting the negative side of the voltmeter.

Good luck,
Bill

Maybe we'll see you one day at the Glamis Dunes. We camp at Roadrunner.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:05 PM   #26
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Well Boys, I found the problem - a blown fuse. We have the Ford chassis and there is an 8 fuse block located above the main fuse block that is located under the left side of the dash (our dash is hinged and lifts up). This 8 fuse block is not shown in the ford manual that came with the RV, but the sticker that explains what fuse goes where is stuck on the back side of the dash plastic above the fuse block. The 15 amp fuse that controls the rear heater was blown. I found this out only by checking every fuse in both blocks. Once the fuse was installed, a click is now heard when I turn the ignition on and both coach and engine batteries are charging. I will post a few pics later tonight.

Now, if I could only figure out why my DRL's will not turn off......Another time, its easy to pull the 5 amp fuse and turn the lights on manually.

Thanks for all the suggestions. This is definitely a fuse to mark.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:13 PM   #27
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Well Boys, I found the problem - a blown fuse. We have the Ford chassis and there is an 8 fuse block located above the main fuse block that is located under the left side of the dash (our dash is hinged and lifts up). This 8 fuse block is not shown in the ford manual that came with the RV, but the sticker that explains what fuse goes where is stuck on the back side of the dash plastic above the fuse block. The 15 amp fuse that controls the rear heater was blown. I found this out only by checking every fuse in both blocks. Once the fuse was installed, a click is now heard when I turn the ignition on and both coach and engine batteries are charging. I will post a few pics later tonight.

Now, if I could only figure out why my DRL's will not turn off......Another time, its easy to pull the 5 amp fuse and turn the lights on manually.

Thanks for all the suggestions. This is definitely a fuse to mark.
It's likely that the rear heater is what blew the fuse--my understanding is that the fan tends to seize up over time. You may want to check that out and see if it needs lubing (or replacing).
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:22 PM   #28
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... We have the Ford chassis and there is an 8 fuse block located above the main fuse block that is located under the left side of the dash (our dash is hinged and lifts up). This 8 fuse block is not shown in the ford manual that came with the RV, but the sticker that explains what fuse goes where is stuck on the back side of the dash plastic above the fuse block. The 15 amp fuse that controls the rear heater was blown....
You can find that fuse block in the Front End Wiring Installation diagram for your coach.
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:53 PM   #29
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It's likely that the rear heater is what blew the fuse--my understanding is that the fan tends to seize up over time. You may want to check that out and see if it needs lubing (or replacing).
If Winnie uses the same heater box on gasers and pushers, then problem could be like my heater failure. It's pretty common to read about it here on this forum.

The problem could be the plastic squirrel cage sliding on the shaft to the point where it hits the housing. It starts as a rubbing noise, then as you use it more it will just lock up the motor, possibly blowing the low speed resistor and then the fuse. Depends on how it was last used, on hi or low speed.

If you can get at the heater box, it's pretty easy fix. I used a 2 part epoxy on the shaft to hold it in the normal operating position.
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