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Old 08-01-2019, 03:21 PM   #1
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Lights and house batteries when plugged in to 50 amp

We have a 2013 Ellipse and are having electrical issues. While plugged int 50 amp service all our house lights seem to pull off the batteries instead of the ground power. Our house batteries begin to go down. When I start up the engine the lights go very bright and the house batteries begin to recharge. Has anyone had this issue and did you find the fix. We have had it looked at 4 or 5 time and no one seems to figure it out.
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Old 08-01-2019, 03:34 PM   #2
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Does this sound familiar?
https://community.fmca.com/topic/131...o-shore-power/
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:31 PM   #3
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Pretty light on diagnostic info. For example, does air conditioner or other AC electrical items work or is the entire coach in no power status? If so I would say yes, check the ATS, they are known to be problematic. If only your DC is not being charged then something else entirely.


The most notorious problem with the ATS is a loose connector which cause one or more wires to burn. A brownout with no EMS or surge protection installed can also cause the ATS issue.


Let us know more details about the lack of power, entire coach or just DC etc.
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Old 08-02-2019, 09:41 PM   #4
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The problem is only with the lights. Tha Ac and everything else seems to work fine and not drain the house batteries. The more lights I turn on the faster the house batteries die.
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:11 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Lynda D View Post
The problem is only with the lights. Tha Ac and everything else seems to work fine and not drain the house batteries. The more lights I turn on the faster the house batteries die.
The lights usually run off 12V aka the batteries whether you're on shore power or not. If they're pulling down your batteries while plugged into shore power then the problem may be your battery charging system. The shore power isn't being directed to the charging system to keep the batteries up while you're using your lights. It does get to the higher draw loads like your AC. Maybe there's a problem with your converter or inverter charging system? I'm not familiar with your specific unit.

Maybe try moving this thread to the class A forum and add your year and model to the title. Maybe some other Ellipse owners have had similar problems. If you subscribe to any other RV forums try posting up in their class/make/model forums for the same reason.
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Old 08-03-2019, 03:21 AM   #6
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The problem is only with the lights. Tha Ac and everything else seems to work fine and not drain the house batteries. The more lights I turn on the faster the house batteries die.
Several thoughts. The 2013 Ellipse has a Magnum inverter/charger. It must be operational to charge the batteries. The batteries may be "dead". Have the batteries tested. With the residential fridge you can't run very long unless plugged into shore or generator running without depleting the batteries. If they have been damaged the inverter/charger will try to charge at high amps - constant current which will cause a heavy load. In a nutshell I always check batteries if the inverter shows it is operational. A sulfated or bad battery in the bank will cause a heavy load.

That's just from a quick glance at wiring and operator manual but in between there may be several other things to look for. Batteries first, then inverter/charger. Battery cables must be tight, not corroded.

The batteries should show above 12.7VDC and if the Magnum is charging them you should measure 13.2-14.4 volts at the batteries depending on charge stage, plugged into shore and coach engine not running. I am hoping the salesman switch is not off, otherwise called the house battery disconnect.
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Old 08-03-2019, 08:13 AM   #7
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It does sound like the inverter/charger is not charging. It’s possible to turn off the charger using the Magnum remote inside your RV. Depending on which remote you have installed it can be super easy, or super difficult to do accidentally. You might check that out as a first step.
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Old 08-07-2019, 04:54 PM   #8
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Check pedestal

Make sure both switches are on at the pedestal for the 50 amp. I stayed at a campground where there was no connecter for the two switches. Stupid me only turned on one. over night it drained the batteries. Lesson learned.
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Old 08-07-2019, 07:15 PM   #9
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Lived through weird electrical happenings. When you are not plugged into shore power, your 12v items run off the batteries, and selected 120v items run off the inverter (12v to 120v).

Keep in mind, when plugged into shore power, your 12v runs off the 'converter' which takes the shore power 120v and converts it to 12v. By design, converters, every now and then, will shut off briefly to cool, and you are getting 12v power directly from the batteries.

If batteries are low from inadequate charging, or just bad, your lights will dim pretty fast. It is possible, but doubtful your converter could have issues, but most likely it is batteries either not getting charged or failing.

And of course there is all the wiring from batteries to converter and inverter to consider, but I would start with the house batteries, if they are good, then the charging circuit.

I had a perfect storm of engine alternator and house batteries all going out at the same time. Took a while, but figured it all out, and with both replaced, all was working perfectly again.
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Old 08-09-2019, 05:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynda D View Post
We have a 2013 Ellipse and are having electrical issues. While plugged int 50 amp service all our house lights seem to pull off the batteries instead of the ground power. Our house batteries begin to go down. When I start up the engine the lights go very bright and the house batteries begin to recharge. Has anyone had this issue and did you find the fix. We have had it looked at 4 or 5 time and no one seems to figure it out.

Nice coach. Sorry you are having problems. Which model do you have: QD or GD?


Here is the Battery Isolation Management relay for the GD: https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram...ire_181364.pdf


1/ Make certain the inverter charger is ON. This can be seen at the Magnum Remote located in your Info Center area. (The inverter (120V section) must be on for the residential refrigerator to work when traveling.


2/ If you have the Magnum remote with the knob you should be reading 13.5VDC or more, plus the charging current. If this is not functioning you must go to the inverter and test the 12V cables there. This is when you need to have a working knowledge of the use of volt/ohm meters and DC troubleshooting, or a friend with this skill willing to assist you.



Keep us posted at to what you find.


Rick Y
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